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I connected the ground wire to the alternator bracket.
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Hello everyone. 2012 Captiva Sport here with all the same problems and then some. Have found some fixes and stumped on others. Lost track of the trips to the dealership and gave up on GMC...Bought car used with 59000 miles, at 89000 miles the timing chain and traction control went out and fortunately it was still under warranty. After that fix, the problems started hitting me like a semi truck head on, plus I still have 2 years left to pay on this thing.
Have many issues, so many I don't have time to post in each separate forum. After timing chain replaced it started using oil, coincident or not? I had read that all these 2.4 engines are doing this due to the rings, and no recall has been issued. Here are my current issues aside from the oil consumption. Electric, Electric, Electric. When it rains it's worse, nothing works, windows, radio, etc. It also leaks. I park it in the garage on rainy days and drive the farm truck. This also makes me think grounding problem also, as someone mentioned earlier. With no rain, still have a grounding problem somewhere. Engine light stays on, showing codes for catalytic converter and cam sensor. Had those changed, and still the same problem. Engine stalls at low speeds and every stop sign, and sometimes when turning in. Thank God it has not at high speeds. Traction control has went out again, so I just turn it off. Lose power accelerating, goes high in the rpms. Almost sounds like a vacuum problem somewhere, like it is not getting enough gas. Key stopped releasing, went to dealership and had to replace shifter harness for almost 400.00. 6months after that warranty expired it began to do it again. Found online, that the harness in the shifter is not quite long enough and becomes damaged and doesn't communicate with the key and again GM will not do a recall. Was not willing to pay that and found a fix that works. remove top of steering cover, and take 25lb fishing line and attach to little plastic release, and drop down line so it will hang out bottom of dash. Apply fishing weight to that, replace cover. Everytime that key hangs up, give the fishing weight a gentle tug with one hand and turn key with other and it will work every time, I had a mechanic friend tear the engine down, clean every sensor, check wiring, did a compression test which was fine. Changed all spark plugs, He did everything and still runs as if someone has just flipped the switch walking out of a room to turn a light off. He was stumped. So I continue to drive it with the check engine light on. Some days are better than others. Praying I don't get stranded with this car. Youtube has been very helpful with some fixes. I am going to try a few things on here and see if they make a difference, one was the battery sensor, , someone mentioned and the cable for alternator to battery and see what I can come up with. Will let you know.... |
2012 Captiva Electrical Issues Continued
Originally Posted by shuvl
(Post 353646)
Wanted to give an update on my wife's 2012 Captiva. It'sbeen a long and painful journey to get a host of issues fixed. You can search though this thread to see how it has progressed.
After the umpteenth time in the shop here in the past 6 months (my 2ndalternator and 3rd BCM) I finally got off my tail and decided to do something about it. Not to mention that my extended warranty is ending here soon. I mentioned in an earlier thread that there once was a website called gmproblemsolver.com that explained the how and why theseproblems are occurring... and a proposed solution. So, it took a while but I tracked the owner of this site down. He was a super nice guy who has been in the automotive repair business for years. He explained that he has worked on hundreds of these issues and was able to offer a solution that he has shared with a many automotive repair shops (including dealerships). He eventually had to take the website down because he was inundated with requests for help. It was just too much. Many issues are related to how the engine and frame are grounded. A bad ground can cause an unnecessary draw on a car's electrical components which will eventually lead to a failure. In my case, random dash lights flashing, radio on/off randomly, radio burning out (yes, this one too), alternator issues, radio going off when turning on the bright lights, cruise control going off when turning on the bright lights, BCM failure. The list goes on andon and on. Don't have time to list them all but almost all of my issues have been discussed in other's thread. The proposed solution is simple. What is needed: Two 14" long 1" widestandard "Electrical Ground Strap Cables" (Napa part # TWD -VEL058116) and some dielectric grease spray. About $35.00 total. Compress the cables allowing for space to fill the inside with the grease spray. This helps to insure connectivity. Connect one strap to the top of the negative battery terminal and then ground the other end somewhere on the frame. Captiva's have a ground post near the battery but I chose to ground my connection to the shock tower only because the bracket to the ground post looks to be soldered in a few places. The attempt here is to have a secure ground. Then connect the second strap somewhere on the other side of the engine and then again over to the frame somewhere. Be careful to allow for engine movement and not to touch any moving parts. You can purchase a shorter length of ground strap depending on where you want to place your grounds. What I did...only because I had already purchased parts before I was able to connect with the gentleman above.. About $100.00 My cables were made out of two gauge stranded welding cable with crimped and soldered connectors. I first ran a secondary ground from the top of the negative battery post over to one of the right side facing upper shock tower mounting screws... being careful to remove enough of the paint underneath the screw to make a good connection. I then ran a second ground from one of the two alternator mounting bracket screws.... up over and away from any pulley/belts...behind the air filter box... and up on to the left side facing shock tower mounting screw. Again making sure I had removed enough paint to make a good connection. Also made sure I had enough hood clearance. So, it has been approx. one month since I have made this upgrade... and have experienced no new issues. a few notes here. - The upgrades I made were in addition to existing negative/ground connections on the vehicle. My efforts here were to reinforce the factory connections. I did not touch any factory wiring harnesses. Similar upgrades by high end stereo shops can be seen on video by googling" the big three upgrade". So, this isn't something new. - I originally took my findings to a local dealership in the hopes of sharing what could be a fix to many of the problems listed here. I also gave them the contact # for the gentleman above. They pretty much ignored my input. "We get fixes/stuff from people all of the time" they said. Guess their techs are smarter than you and me? Maybe it's the liability issue? Maybe this post will get deleted by the admins? We'll see.... - This info is offered up for educational and informational purposes only. Use it as you see fit. Good luck! Every single issue written about here, I have experienced. My 2012 Chevy Captiva LTZ was the first car that I purchased myself, December 2018. Electrical issues started in January, just shy of my 30-day warranty. Continued with random issues and July of 2019 found my fuze box fried. $400 replacement and things were fine until a month later. Luckily, that's when, in my anger, I found this post. My husband and I performed the "fix" noted here, for a total of $15 and my issues seem to have ceased. I am cautiously optimistic at this point, as it's only been 3 days. However that's the longest I've gone without random warning lights in over a month. I haven't had any losses or drops of power and my car has started every time! If anything changes, I will update but for now, this seems to be working. |
2012 Captiva Radio saying Device Not Supported and USB device searching.
I have only had my 2012 Chevy Captive for a week now. Went to Express Credit Auto here in Tulsa. Now my radio is saying Device Not Supported and Searching For USB. I have no idea what is going on, please help
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/chevrol...a7c25e2815.jpg |
Originally Posted by Chevrolet Customer Service
(Post 282799)
Is there anything we can look into for you, dbackssss? We understand this is a bit peculiar and we'll gladly do some additional research on our end to try and find answers for you. Please private message us your VIN and mileage if we can further investigate this matter.
Amber N. Chevrolet Customer Care |
Update: I
Originally Posted by Britt T
(Post 434428)
Every single issue written about here, I have experienced. My 2012 Chevy Captiva LTZ was the first car that I purchased myself, December 2018. Electrical issues started in January, just shy of my 30-day warranty. Continued with random issues and July of 2019 found my fuze box fried. $400 replacement and things were fine until a month later. Luckily, that's when, in my anger, I found this post. My husband and I performed the "fix" noted here, for a total of $15 and my issues seem to have ceased. I am cautiously optimistic at this point, as it's only been 3 days. However that's the longest I've gone without random warning lights in over a month. I haven't had any losses or drops of power and my car has started every time! If anything changes, I will update but for now, this seems to be working.
|
Originally Posted by Chevrolet Customer Service
(Post 282799)
Is there anything we can look into for you, dbackssss? We understand this is a bit peculiar and we'll gladly do some additional research on our end to try and find answers for you. Please private message us your VIN and mileage if we can further investigate this matter.
Amber N. Chevrolet Customer Care |
What Atlanta dealership
Originally Posted by Mike San
(Post 362027)
Did they told you what was wrong? What did they change?
I had the same issue and change the battery but I believe will not be enough[ QUOTE=shuvl;291321]Wanted to follow-up on my earlier post….. A few days after my last post I received a frantic call from my wife who had again been left stranded. Taking the advice of my father-in-law, I called a different Chevy dealership here in Atlanta. My father-in-law had been using them for years to service his work fleet with good success. The service writer immediately gave me the GM service phone # to call for a wrecker. A wrecker was there within the hour. Two hours later I received an e-mail from the service writer confirming receipt of the vehicle. They too were challenged in recreating the issues. So, I told them to take it for a long ride. They gave the keys to one of their mechanics and told him to hit the road. About 20 mins later the problems returned. Radio turned off and on then the dash error lights started flashing. A few days later we were called to come pick up the Captiva. They had replaced the Body Control Unit (BCM). All was good…. Well sort of… Within days the problems returned. So, back to the dealership we went. Only this time it would be different.... The service writer/dealership offered us a loaner to drive. A service ticket was opened up with the GM engineering team. With the help of GM engineering, the service techs were able to diagnose the problem as being low voltage in both positive and negative battery cables. The complete assembly was replaced. Once the new cables were installed the service writer asked if they could drive it over the weekend to monitor it further. Absolutely, we said. The following Monday we were asked if they could keep the car for a few more days. A GM district manager was coming in to see the car and to review the case. Absolutely x 2, we said. When all was said and done…. It’s been over two month’s since we picked up my wife’s Captiva. It has since been running like a top. Not one “Bleep” or flashing error dash light. We even took the car on a 1500 mile trip over the Thanksgiving holiday and experienced no issues. Our experience with this new (to us) dealership was nothing less than fabulous. Our service writers, Danon and Vladimir were top notch! They understood our frustration. Their communication of the issues and their plan to resolve them were spot on. When / if my Chevy Tahoe does finally decide to give it up (300k+ miles and counting), I will be coming back to these guys for my next new Tahoe. Hope all of this helps others… hello... I was wondering what dealership you used I live near Atlanta and my 2013 Captiva is doing the same thing ... is yours still fixed? |
Is your Captiva still working
Originally Posted by shuvl
(Post 361929)
Hi Ric,
In my case... and in many other's cases... .inadequate grounding was the cause here. If the grounds are inadequate, the electricity will take the path of least resistance and "find ground" through other circuits. These nearly all run through the various computers and therefore will cause stress on the electronics within. Hope this helps. Shuvl |
Hi Jamielynn,
All of the dealerships (4) we had dealt with have been cordial and seemed to be looking out for their customers.... but none were able to fix electrical problem. We have experienced no new issues since adding the additional ground wires to the vehicle. (See my above post with pictures). Hope this helps! |
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