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'98 Cav won't start when temp. is @ or below 32 degrees

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Old November 29th, 2011, 7:24 PM
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Default '98 Cav won't start when temp. is @ or below 32 degrees

I have a '98 Chev. Cav. that has 131 k miles on it and has been carefully maintained by me and its former owner.
It runs like a sweetheart and starts up at a touch UNTIL THE TEMP. IS AROUND 32 DEGREES F! Then it waits until the weather heats up just a bit and starts in an instant! Since I live in Oregon in a temporate climate (almost sea level) except for a very few rare days the weather gets warm enough for the car to start around 10-11 a.m.

It's not the battery!

Last winter was the first winter I owned it and discovered this nasty little habit in January. A reputable garage spent a lot of time trying to diagnose it-----and I had them keep it outside at their place so they could do the testing first thing in the a.m. several times.
The fuel pump was replaced----- when it was thought that it might be the problem. But that didn't fix it. The owners spent quite a bit of time 'thinking' on the problem and even came to my place to 'test' it with no charge.

The last suggestion they made was to replace the dashboard. Someone else on this forum asked 'Why would a dashboard stop a car from starting?' but never got an answer to that. I ask the same question and would like to know.

(As that other person admitted also---- I'm not a mechanic. Please be kind. I know it's an old car and I'm not complaining about the mechanics. But it's such a strange thing I'm wondering if anyone has heard of this before or if they might have any other (kind) suggestions to make.)

'98 Chev Cav.
Engine 2.2
2 wheel drive
AC/PS (yy) I know what AC is but not PS, but the car has both.
auto trans.

Here's what was done to my '98 Chev. Cav. in Jan of 2011.

Replace fuel pump assembly
Replace fuel filter
Program new key

I'm not exactly sure what the following means so I'll write it out as it is on my invoice:
No start AM cold- set code P16296C and U1016C - scan internal modules has codes B1017 and C1275
(NOTE! If sets 2960 ir 2958, replace cylinder)- disassemble and test wiring to cylinder (must be no start) to determine if the cylinder or dash is bad.
Old December 11th, 2011, 7:30 AM
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it might be the coolant temp sensor,it just turns over but wont start?
Old December 12th, 2011, 9:21 AM
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Sean,

Thanks for a possible solution. In my readings (which of course I could only understand a part of!) 'coolant sensor' popped up many times.

I wonder if that's easy to diagnose, cheap to fix? I wonder (if it's easily found/seen) a person could just hold a hair dryer to it first, then try. (Don't laugh, told you I didn't know much about cars!)
I don't mind a charge at the mechanics for fixing the sensor---- but can't afford many a fishing expeditions.
Or is it in the computer and a much more complicated situation?

Either way---- it does sound plausible.

Last edited by cave76; December 12th, 2011 at 12:04 PM. Reason: forgot to ask something---- What do you mean by 'turning over'? It's not like when a battery is dead and won't turn over.
Old December 12th, 2011, 6:28 PM
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the one on my 2000 is on the passenger side of the car in a cooling pipe next the alternator my friend had a 97 sunbird and think it was in a different spot but cant remember, this sensor and the intake air sensor are the only reference the computer has for temp if you know how to use an multi meter you could test it,its only about $20 at autozone,you could try the hair dryer watch out for the plastic connector on it,heres a link to what it looks like out of the cooling system Duralast/Coolant Temperature Sensor (SU109) | 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier 4 Cylinders 4 2.2L SFI OHV | AutoZone.com_
Old December 13th, 2011, 9:07 AM
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Sean----- Thanks for your input. I'll have to see about using a multi meter. I have back problems galore and bending over is a pain (!) Then add my total ignorance about 'engine things'------

I just peeked at a site called Multimeter for Dummies and it sounds as it's beyond my ability, being a 'dummy' and all. Maybe a friend might be able to. Or, at the very least. if I ask my garage mechanic to test this SPECIFICALLY it won't cost too much. On my previous receipts from this mechanic there's no mention on that being tested---- at least no charge for it---- so either they didn't test it or it was done, found to be working and there was no charge. I know they did seem to go the extra little mile for me at times.

I see a call to my mechanic coming up. But thanks for any thoughts from all the members here.
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