brakes sticking.
#2
You first need to figure out why they're sticking. Then go from there. Make sure the caliper pins are properly lubricated with high temp brake grease and move freely. Inspect the caliper pin boots for wear or damage.
Another cause is worn brake hoses that collapse and act like a check valve. Pressure forces brake fluid out toward your brake calipers when you push on the pedal, but nothing forces the brake fluid the other way when you let up on the brake pedal.
If those items are OK, then the caliper pistons are probably stuck and you'll need to replace the brake caliper.
Another cause is worn brake hoses that collapse and act like a check valve. Pressure forces brake fluid out toward your brake calipers when you push on the pedal, but nothing forces the brake fluid the other way when you let up on the brake pedal.
If those items are OK, then the caliper pistons are probably stuck and you'll need to replace the brake caliper.
#3
all or just one?
i test drive and then check each wheel to see which one is much hotter than the other.
the pads could also be stuck in the caliper brackets....they must slide....had one today i had to hammer out.
to check the caliper pistons...use a caliper piston tool (they are cheap....don't use a c clamp...it will push anything back even if its seized). if they won't move back, open the bleeder screw....if they move back after opening the bleeder...suspect the flex line....if they still don't move back...replace the caliper.
i test drive and then check each wheel to see which one is much hotter than the other.
the pads could also be stuck in the caliper brackets....they must slide....had one today i had to hammer out.
to check the caliper pistons...use a caliper piston tool (they are cheap....don't use a c clamp...it will push anything back even if its seized). if they won't move back, open the bleeder screw....if they move back after opening the bleeder...suspect the flex line....if they still don't move back...replace the caliper.
#4
all or just one?
i test drive and then check each wheel to see which one is much hotter than the other.
the pads could also be stuck in the caliper brackets....they must slide....had one today i had to hammer out.
to check the caliper pistons...use a caliper piston tool (they are cheap....don't use a c clamp...it will push anything back even if its seized). if they won't move back, open the bleeder screw....if they move back after opening the bleeder...suspect the flex line....if they still don't move back...replace the caliper.
i test drive and then check each wheel to see which one is much hotter than the other.
the pads could also be stuck in the caliper brackets....they must slide....had one today i had to hammer out.
to check the caliper pistons...use a caliper piston tool (they are cheap....don't use a c clamp...it will push anything back even if its seized). if they won't move back, open the bleeder screw....if they move back after opening the bleeder...suspect the flex line....if they still don't move back...replace the caliper.
I always use a C-clamp to compress [regular] caliper pistons, but I don't screw the C-clamp directly into the pistons which is what I think you ultimately wanted the OP to avoid doing - which I completely agree with.
To safely use a C-clamp for the job, I place the old [inner] brake pad between the C-clamp and the caliper piston(s) with the friction material facing the C-clamp and the backing plate facing the caliper. I wouldn't recommend doing this if you intend to reuse the brake pads, but any other flat, hard object that covers both pistons would suffice in lieu of the old brake pad. This practice allows multiple caliper pistons to be compressed simultaneously, and prevents the C-clamp from damaging the caliper piston(s).