mdfree214

have an 08 Equinox. Need wiring diagrams to troubleshoot/diagnose P1682 code issue. Does anyone know where I can acquire info without spending? with the libraries closed currently, difficult to get gratis info lately. any input (productive) appreciated. thanks4 reading, double thanks for helping...

kevinkpk

Only thing I can suggest is online searches

ruley73

Our library offers online access to auto repair database. I just need to enter my library card number on their site to login. Your library may offer a similar service. I'd post a diagram, but I'm not in a place where I'm able to do so right now.

What symptoms are you having?

One might quickly suggest replacing the ignition switch, but as old as the vehicle is a wiring or other circuit fault is could also be the cause of the problem. I would start by checking fuses and relays. Some GM owners have reported that the terminals on the underside of the underhood fuse block work themselves loose over time. If you know how the fuse block is constructed you'd know this is very possible. In your case, check the CRANK and IGN 1 relays. If they feel loose (read: are not super tight) this could be your problem. The solution is to disassemble the fuse block and squeeze the corresponding terminals back together so they contact the relays better. Removing the fuse block and disassembling it is pretty straight forward and fairly easy. You will need to remove all the fuses before disassembling it so take some pictures of the top of the fuses so you know where to put them back. Obviously, disconnect the battery before doing this.

mdfree214

crank but no start. will check the fuse block. did have issue before block. took car to dealership for wiper motor replace in October because my usual mechanic was on vacation and the service techs fried my fuse block...after going back and forth, finally getting service mgr to NOT charge for replacement of unit or labor time related,, got car back but have been experiencing intermittent stabilitrack code flashs..figured was fuse block related (stabilitrack) but it never affected operation. now realize they didn't replace my fuse block, just "shined it up" to disguise damage..integrity...anyway, now the car wont start due to P1682_$7BEA.

thanks for suggestion, will disassemble fuse block and see just how bad it is.under there...thanks again.

ruley73

It could end up being a bad ignition switch, but it's definitely worthwhile to look at the fuse block before replacing the switch.

The service manual says you need to drop the steering column to replace the ignition switch, but I found with the right tools that wasn't necessary. You only need to remove the upper and lower plastic panels around the column under the steering wheel to gain access to the ignition switch. It's actually on the driver's side of the column, and not near the key cylinder like you might think.

If if you set the column height just right, you have just enough room to remove the two screws necessary to replace the switch. You need to use a short 1/4” torx bit (not sure of exact size but will be T15, T20, or T25) like you'd use in a drill chuck and one of those low profile ratcheting drivers for 1/4” bits.

Once I figured out what tools I needed for the job, I had it replaced in about 15 minutes. You just need to be careful not to drop anything in the process. 🙂

mdfree214

ruley73,

thanks for the heads up. it was the crank relay, fuse block loc 55.. I switched the faulty relay with fan 1 relay, fuse block loc 60 since both were part #2753, and started right up no hesitation. when I hooked my scanner up, no more code issue. thanks again for the assist. at 240k+ miles, i wasn't far from considering cutting my losses and putting 'ole Bessie out to pasture'.
you rock!

now i just need order replacement relay(s) and test run once new unit in place...

ruley73

Glad to hear you found the problem and that it's a cheap fix. Whatever you do, DO NOT turn the key on with the battery cables disconnected. This will cause a bad parasitic drain due to the OnStar module under the seat. The only fix is to replace the module which is a discontinued part. Ours doesn't have OnStar so I never had to worry about it, but OnStar became a standard option in 2008.

I keep telling people, with good maintenance the older Equinox/Torrent (specifically the 2007-2009 FWD w/3.4L engine) are very reliable. I firmly believe this is the most reliable GM vehicle made in the last 40 years. There are still A LOT of these on the road, especially compared to any other GM vehicle made around the same time. The outsourced Aisin transmission is a big reason for it. The revised, China-built 3.4L engine is specific to the Equinox/Torrent and doesn't have the problems that plagued the USA-built engines used in numerous other GM models.

We've had ours for almost 12 years and I'm hoping to get another couple years out of it. The salt & rust is starting to get the best of it though. I'm not worried about the engine & transmission at all. The rear splash shields around the brake rotors are completely rusted off, and the fronts look like they will be soon too. I would replace them, but I'm worried about damaging the hub assemblies in the process. The frame is also rotting really bad around where the trailer hitch would normally be mounted.

I'd buy a new vehicle, but it's been paid off for years and I can't find anything I like to replace it with. We only paid $13,500 for it in October 2008, and I do all my own work on it so TCO has been very low. The plan is to drive it until it dies. 🙂

jkb242

try your local library on line system for automotive resources. I know this sounds crazy but there are indeed these diagrams and lots of diagnostic material in almost library system in the US. You’ll need a library card to access but they are there. I recently find the wiring diagram for a Honda 2007 Odessey.