tbb2

My new pads and rotor are here.
But the old parts do not want to leave.
- You might have an interest in previous posts on 'dragging noise' but at this point I am working to fix what I worked out from that post.

1) Pads / Caliper:
I find the outside pad is seized/rusted into the slides.
- PB Blaster (PBB) and a spike nail were able to free the top but the bottom is not moving.
- I do not have much that can slide between the caliper mounting bracket and the caliper to impact behind the pad to bang it out.
-- I will let PBB set for some hours ... but
---Are there any tips on loosening the brake pad tab from the slide?
- Isn't it the case, once the caliper comes off the pads are sitting in the bracket so I could loosen the pad there.
---I think I just answered my own question ... ?

2) Caliper Bracket:
The caliper bracket needs to come off to get at the rotor.
- I tested loosening the bracket bolts but ...
-- my breaker bar will not fit over the nut and in between the nut and spring.
-- a long handle ratchet may work but I need the caliper out of the way to leverage it.
- My concern is in initial looking for thread locker, Permatex is recommending 2 products that do not seem to apply.
-- One indicates that it needs to be seriously heated to remove the bolt the second is for large diameter bolts.
--- If one of these was used by a previous repair, not by myself, then what? The retaining washers are in place so these rotors could be original. But I have no frame of reference for wear ... except the opposite wheel only has 0.5mm off of new. (?) Which makes me think it is not original.
-- The caliper will need to come off to get it out of the way of a torch if that becomes necessary. This may be solved by my self answered Q above it I'm correct. Would a propane torch get the bolt hot enough?
--- Has anyone run into this or can anyone tell me where I am approaching this wrong?

3) Rotor:
Preliminary efforts to see if the rotor is lose are not yielding results. On the front rotor I was surprised to find it loose after the wheel was removed.
- I have PBB'ed around the lug nuts and hub, I have choked the three other wheels and released the emergency brake. I have done some tapping around the edges just to see if there is observed movement.
-- The PBB will take some time to work.
---Are there any other tips on getting the rotor off?

Yes - this is my first work on brakes to this depth.
Thank you

mountainmanjoe

It can take more than a tap to get the rotor off. Don't be afraid to put some arm into it.

mountainmanjoe

Doug D

As far as the stuck rotor, mountainmanjoe is on the right track. Keep tapping with a mallet. Rotate the rotor a little after each tap. It will eventually loosen. I have a small rubber mallet I use for this. A few good wacks usually does the trick. If not I keep at it until it loosens. To help on the next service I use anti-seize.

If the rotor still has its retainer washers it is the original rotors. Remove them and the rotor should come right off - if not tap it until it does.

As far as the caliper bolts the best I can tell you is to get a breaker bar that fits. Working on my wife's former vehicle (2010 Journey) I ended up getting a 1/2" drive 20" long breaker bar and used the sockets from my socket set. Still took some hard pulling but it eventually broke loose. The longer the bar the more torque you can apply. But I understand there is only so much room in the wheel well.
Hope that helps.

oldchevy

Turn the wheel to the left or right to get more room for the breaker bar. I used a box end wrench, 18mm in my case and put a piece of pipe on it to get more leverage.

tbb2

oldchevy ... this is a rear wheel.

oldchevy

Sorry, I didn't see that in your post.

tbb2

1) Pads / Caliper:
Caliper comes off without pads.
Since I was replacing the rotor I used a pry bar to force the pads out of the bracket slides.

2) Caliper Bracket:
- 18" L, 1/2" drive breaker bar
- 18mm, 12 point, standard socket
-- shopping for 6 point to do the other side
- 3 1/2 foot cheater bar
- propane torch
- spark
- 3# sledge
- PBBlaster

- Pounded the head of bolt with a hammer, noticed dirt coming out back of bracket
- PBBlasted from the back
- Applied heat to bracket and head of bolt with propane torch for a couple of minutes
-- PBBlaster burns
-- The thread locker for these bolts is likely intended to be heated to 500 degree F for removal
- Use socket, breaker bar and cheater to just budge loose both bolts

- Turns out there is a side cavity between the side wall of the van and frame wide enough for a cheater bar

3) Rotor:
- PBBlasted around lugs over night ... it really appears in my case the adhesion was around the perimeter of the hub.
- 3# sledge around outside face of rotor and then on back side exposed by removal of caliper and bracket.

After I did it once it is was just difficult.
Before I did it, it was impossible.

cablesplicer

Good job and glad to hear you got apart , thats usually the hardest part of most repairs. Remember we all had to do it the first time but from the way you tackled this and other repairs i have read , i doubt you will fail in any of your endevers / repairs . Good luck and i like your saying about doing repairs . Mine always was ''if one man can put it together , another can take it apart'' [and with enoft tools it can be fixed , lol].

StanVan