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-   -   To insulate or not to insulate? That's my question. (https://chevroletforum.com/forum/express-g-series-vans-30/insulate-not-insulate-thats-my-question-71445/)

dberladyn March 11th, 2015 9:29 PM

To insulate or not to insulate? That's my question.
 
Hi all,

I live in a very damp part of the world, it rarely gets near -10c or to 35c. At first, before buying my van I was wanting to insulate. I thought of spray foaming it, I've though of encasing fibreglass inside poly and I've thought of glueing styrofoam sheets in with foam insulation.

I know moisture is a problem when vans are insulated, there's a lot of moisture where I am. I've heard even spray foam traps it in creating the opportunity for premature rust. Yesterday I was speaking with a guy who drives a foamed company van. He says in the winter the foam traps the cold in and in the summer it traps the heat in.

I'd like to hear each one of your opinions. I'm starting to lean on no insulation as although unpleasant, my tools and materials can handle the cold. I don't like seeing the frosted rib cage in the winter but, it's simpler, no moisture or heat problems.

So what are your opinions?

spaceblonde March 15th, 2015 6:19 PM

Take the cash from insulation and have a remote start installed !! Run the AC in the summer and Heater in winter

DougE March 16th, 2015 9:46 AM

Rigid foams are likely to squeak. Fiberglass will fall down. I used sponge foam sheets and contact cement. It'll help cut down on noise as well. Not the best insulators but good enough.

canucklehead March 16th, 2015 1:03 PM

Mineral wool home insulation is the best, or a synthetic fibre carpet underlay. They wont take on moisture, and they wont squeak. Spray glue will hold the underlay in place until you get up your plywood.

krotov71 March 19th, 2015 7:50 PM

Insulate mine express with wool a week ago, no affect MPG )

darkgoatracer April 9th, 2015 8:42 PM

I'm a HERS rater by profession. what climate zone are you in? Sounds like extruded polystyrene (blue foam board) would probably do the job, seeing as its a very moisture permeable material- but I agree with douge that it will more than likely squeak like crazy. An open cell spray foam will for sure do the job, but I bet it would be 500$ to get a van done. Whatever you do, I would stay away from expanded polystyrene (white cooler foam) and paper faced insulation batts.

dberladyn April 9th, 2015 9:55 PM


Originally Posted by darkgoatracer (Post 299416)
I'm a HERS rater by profession. what climate zone are you in? Sounds like extruded polystyrene (blue foam board) would probably do the job, seeing as its a very moisture permeable material- but I agree with douge that it will more than likely squeak like crazy. An open cell spray foam will for sure do the job, but I bet it would be 500$ to get a van done. Whatever you do, I would stay away from expanded polystyrene (white cooler foam) and paper faced insulation batts.


I forget what climate zone I am in and too lazy to look it up. Just think of where I am as Seattle, Washington. Close enough.

Just over 20 years ago I tried insulating a van with both pink and white insulation. It was a squeaky mess. That's why I was thinking if the sheets where glued in with those canned spray foam the problem would be solved. A part of me though doesn't want to do anything permanent. I can't really decide. This thread somewhat made me conclude I don't really need insulation for temperature, but it did make me aware that I may need it for sound if I sheet the inside with thin plywood.

Honestly I can't decide what to do. Wool, foam or nothing.

canucklehead April 10th, 2015 1:54 AM

Roxul.

dberladyn April 11th, 2015 9:59 PM


Originally Posted by canucklehead (Post 299432)
Roxul.

Perfect, because actually I really like this idea. I am aware that water will bead and roll off Roxul, but I would like some assurance that it will not trap moisture/water causing rust. Roxul right up tight to the outside wall?

I'd just have to locate thin batts as all the Roxul I've ever seen is 3.5" or bigger.

canucklehead April 12th, 2015 1:54 AM

If you are worried about condensation, then make sure the wall spaces can breath into the van interior, like the factory interior of a passenger unit. Look for steel stud insulation it is thinner.....

tsbrewers April 12th, 2015 10:35 PM

go check out the sportsmobile forums, many there converted their vans in to campers and did the insulation thing. Most used the foil faced bubble wrap type (forgot the name)

dberladyn April 20th, 2015 11:43 PM

I can't see that actually insulating a lot compared to Roxul. I just picked up Plastic Moulded Panels to line in the interior. I have to stop at a supplier to see what's available for 2" Roxul batts. I just hope I don't get moisture issues. I think I am going to tack the batts in with construction adhesive, once the liner is installed they won't go anywhere.

dberladyn April 21st, 2015 6:39 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Good Idea or Bad Idea?

I took some Spray Foam insulation and insulated the ribs and crevices in preparation for installing the Roxul and Panels. It has to cure before I can off the excess. It's in there pretty thick some places.

dberladyn April 25th, 2015 8:10 PM

2 Attachment(s)
I insulated the passenger side today.

Roxul Comfortbatt IS

dberladyn April 26th, 2015 6:09 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Driver's side is insulated.

dberladyn April 28th, 2015 11:10 AM

I feel like an idiot. I'm depressed this morning. I looked in my rearview mirror and I can see the ribs of the body as the expanding foam swelled and added ever so slight creases to the outside panels. If you are going to do this make sure you use LOW EXPANSION FOAM. I did take my time and I sprayed in two or three passes, letting it expand each time but I'm sure I just used the wrong foam. I now keep looking at other vans to see if I can spot the ribs from the outside... this will drive nuts forever. Most people will never notice it, but I do. I wonder now too if I bolt shelving to those ribs if the stresses will further worsen the slight creases?

endneu913 May 4th, 2015 9:37 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I was also worried about insulation as i camp in my Express. Sorry for the late chime in... What i did was took regular pink foam insulation on a roll, split in half ( so it was thinner) And installed it between the ribs using tie wire to hold it in place. I stabbed the wire underneath each rib ( between the rib and the actual outside wall, lacing the insulation in place. I did this near the top, middle and bottom. After that I installed my panels which covered the insulation, screwing them to the ribs. For panels I used 1/8 plywood cut to shapes for all walls and ceiling. After the panels were cut to shape and dryfitted, I glued marine carpet ( thin, plush, rubberized back) with outdoor carpet glue and neatly wrapped the sides around the back. These then got screwed into place to the frames with aluminum pan heads ( big flat head screws painted black )

Before final installation, I took strips of carpet and hot glued over the long upper rails so that no white metal showed through. And of course ran wiring for all my LEDs.

I camp in this in the dead of winter and summer, 100 degrees to Zero. The only time I have issues with condensation is when i sleep in it in cold weather and don't crack windows a tiny bit. ( And I use a heater buddy to dry the air up )

Hopefully this helps someone in the future!

Attachment 10431

canucklehead May 4th, 2015 11:40 PM

Nice.

dberladyn May 11th, 2015 6:55 PM

https://chevroletforum.com/forum/att...n-dsc01023.jpg

Hi,

I was a bit surprised no one commented on my mishap with spray foaming my van. It's been nearly two weeks I think and somethings happened. If you remember I was upset that the foam forced the panels outwards at the ribs. I knew not to spray too much, but it's so easy, especially when you start rushing to get something done.

Anyways over the last few days I started noticing something. I haven't quite put my finger on it, but I am sure at least one of the outward bulges reversed itself and became a slight inwards indentation. Today, while working and filling up with gas I noticed that I couldn't really see the bulges anymore. I haven't cleaned the van, so there's some slight dirt and it's overcast today, so both may have something to do with it.

However, it's led me to think that perhaps with all the sunshine and heat we've had lately (and this was a concern), perhaps the panels have expanded and swelled a little stretching out the humps? Or perhaps the heat expansion and vibrations from driving have forced things into a more natural relaxed state? Or of course maybe the van is just covered in a very light layer of dirt and there's no direct sunlight.

I've been wanting to visit a few different body shops and ask them opinions on correcting my issues with the panels. Does no one here have anything to contribute? It is a work van, but it's a new van and it's defeating to have installed the plastic liners to protect the body only to have forced the ribs out.

I have one other question that has been on my mind since this all began. GM uses a very spongy foam (what I should have used) between the rib and outer panel. Does anyone here think that the ribs somewhat "float" independently from the body panel? Are they uncoupled for vibration and expansion issues? Or are they spot welded together? For me, I can't view mine any longer as they are foamed and completely covered by plastic panels.

A concern of mine when I started thinking about it, is that perhaps they are uncoupled which would diminish the panel from denting and stretching as the entire body and rib cage vibrated, stretched, twisted, etc. over the course of the vehicles life. My main concern was that the foam would make things worse in this respect as it "glues" the two items together. I've contemplated taking a hot wire (which probably won't work) or a hacksaw blade and cutting down the foam in between the rib and the panel.

Can anyone determine for me if the panel and rib are "attached" or are they "free" from eachother?

Thank you.

tsbrewers May 12th, 2015 7:45 AM

To be honest, I am sure you wouldn't like my reply I wanted to say the second I read you used spray foam.

I am sure the improvement is probably a combination of everything you mentioned. I know my roof is not connected to the ribs since I can pretty much get my fingers between them. If you are nervous about having them glued together, you could try the hot knife or hacksaw blade idea.

Me personally I would just leave everything and use the van.

canucklehead May 12th, 2015 2:56 PM

I think the ribs are glued in a few spots to the outer sheet metal. Not welded....
....as for the expanding foam....you are not the first or the last person to underestimate the pressure it creates.......They have to use a massive press to make rigid insulation panels out of expanded foam.....

dberladyn July 12th, 2015 12:14 AM

Ok,

I am back at this again, round two, van two.

I plan on staying away from the spray foam. I've been back and forth on this for weeks, to do it or not. I started installing a plywood dividing/shelving system for tools and materials and then I've done a 180, pulled everything out and I am ready to start tomorrow. You have no idea how hot a black van gets! Mind you, it may not really be any different once it's insulated, I don't know.

I am going to blueskin the entire inside of the body. I figure this will create a complete water tight seal against moisture and the body, as well as creating a slight sound deadening. After the blueseal will be Roxul, capped by a vapour barrier which may just turn out to be another layer of blueskin.

From here, I can either mount plywood or reinstall my plastic moulded liners. I prefer plywood for the ability to take screws and for access to the wiring. I have a lot of things I would like to do over time and the plastic liners get in the way as I can't access the wiring, especially once the dividers and liners are in.

On the other hand, the plastic liners look semi-professional and if the van is completely empty it can be hosed out. Plywood on the other hand... ughh.

Phillip123 July 12th, 2015 6:26 AM

AC - Summer
Heater - Winter

dberladyn July 12th, 2015 2:15 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Yeah, I know. That's probably the smartest yet...

I tried placing a large sheet of BlueSkin last night. It took a couple of tries and now I realize the best thing to do would be to cut 4" or 6" strips 24" long and apply it that way. Easiest to follow the ribs, folds and whatever else while keeping it flat.

This seems like an excellent way to deal with the condensation issues. It keeps any condensation off the steel. But... now this morning I was reading something else. Butyl based products, particularly ones that are ashpalt based tend to melt in the sun. Considering that I have a black van and I am applying this to black steel...

Yes, I am in the process of removing it. Painful... I am peeling off literally an inch at a time as the "stick" really sticks. I really liked this idea, but perhaps I will use the product for wrapping the inside afterwards, so I can still keep the rinsing out with a hose solution. Then again, it is heavy so I don't know.

dberladyn July 16th, 2015 12:12 AM

What a waste.

I've abandoned all my plans and went back to what I did 20 years ago and what I thought I shouldn't do again. I am insulating with 1/2" foam boards. I didn't want to do this because one, it's expensive and two, squeaks. My van of 20 years ago squeaked and I read posts online of vans squeaking. To solve this I've bought soft foam in a roll which is manufactured and intended for temporarily protecting furniture, counters and other surfaces while the surrounding area is worked on. It's self adhesive and so far it works. I just line each sheet with that where ever it contacts another item. Test drive will be tomorrow.

I am actually remotely planning on losing the molded plastic liners. I don't want to but I do. I do because I can't screw into them, they are not as nice as one would think, they are rough cut they actually don't fit that well. I am thinking of light plywood walls, perhaps covered in a water proofing material so that I may completely customize the interior while still finding a way to empty and hose out the van.

canucklehead July 16th, 2015 5:30 PM

i used carpet underlay, and just glued it to the sheet metal. Steel stud R8 insulation would work to, so you don't get the squeaking of rigid foam.....

dberladyn July 18th, 2015 5:19 PM


Originally Posted by canucklehead (Post 305183)
i used carpet underlay, and just glued it to the sheet metal. Steel stud R8 insulation would work to, so you don't get the squeaking of rigid foam.....

I'm too scared of promoting rot. Any insulation used needs to keep the condensation away from the metal. So far, still no squeaks and with only a 1/2", very little warmth is conducted down into the body, but I have a feeling it's extremely hot between the foam and the metal. This heat seems to make it's way forward through the air gap and come out at the headliner.

I'm just still trying to decide on using another 1/2" or not, and then the material to line the roof with. Hardi board would be good at 1/8", but I'd like plywood so the walls match and for actually having some bone to screw into. I might be hanging some long racks down the insides of the roof for certain tools and materials.

dberladyn August 2nd, 2015 11:08 AM

I am still stuck on insulating. The styro foam works well, heat wise. It's actually cooled down the van from the Summer sun. Although I have developed a squeak. It's all completely changeable though, as nothing has been covered.

I was in a Supplier that also supplies heat and frost materials. Originally I was trying to be too cheap, but I finally started enquiring. They carry a closed cell foam mat available in 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" right up into the inches. It's soft curvable and it doesn't squeak. I spent money there I didn't want to, but I am wishing I bought it from the start. I swear it's the same basic material that GM uses between the ribs and the panels. The same insulator.

For a guy who wasn't going to insulate, I've bought a lot and done little. I have enough different materials to insulate it four different ways. Moisture is my main concern. I don't want to trap moisture in there. I also, don't want a squeaky van.

I was talking to someone else involved with fleets. They buy their vans, remove everything and then immediately get that rubber coating applied, the truck liner spray on type. I can't think of the name. He told me where to go to get it done for $300. Spray the entire inside. From there, I should be able to insulate just about any way that I want? Right? Do pickup beds ever rust with that coating applied? I realize the van isn't a 1000 year vehicle, but I don't want to promote damage.

The coating is permanent, so it has to be the right decision. I know it makes body work harder to repair. There's no way moisture should get under that. Especially if I spray it now, it in very hot dry weather.


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