91 G20 power window help!
#1
91 G20 power window help!
Hey guys. Been trying to figure out my power windows.
Neither motors kick on or make a noise. Checked the fuse. Got a new master switch. Checked voltage at the motor wires and they show 12v when switch activated.
It seems like both windows stopped working at the same time, so it shouldn't be the motors right? What else should I check before I come to this conclusion? Thanks
Neither motors kick on or make a noise. Checked the fuse. Got a new master switch. Checked voltage at the motor wires and they show 12v when switch activated.
It seems like both windows stopped working at the same time, so it shouldn't be the motors right? What else should I check before I come to this conclusion? Thanks
#2
I'm here for the party
you can have 12v with no draw but once you apply a draw (the motors) the voltage will drop. this is normally caused by a weak or poor wire connection. since its both windows i would be more incline to think its on the drivers side (if theyre wired the same as trucks the passengers side gets its power from the drivers side) check the wires in the wire loom between the door and cab.
#4
It can be the self reset circutbreaker in the fuseblock under the dash.
I had it years ago with my 89 G20.
It's a thermoelement in a metal case, little bit bigger than normal fuse.
This thermoelement breaks the power to the windows, when the switch is hold and the motor is at end of way
to protect burning the motor.
Location is between Wiper 25A and ECM1 10A
Mounted a 30A normal fuse and both windows works well from this time.
God luck from cold north of Germany
I had it years ago with my 89 G20.
It's a thermoelement in a metal case, little bit bigger than normal fuse.
This thermoelement breaks the power to the windows, when the switch is hold and the motor is at end of way
to protect burning the motor.
Location is between Wiper 25A and ECM1 10A
Mounted a 30A normal fuse and both windows works well from this time.
God luck from cold north of Germany
#5
Thank you 350. I checked the wire loom and connectors, they all seem fine. I had replaced that for a new metal one but I'll try putting a regular fuse in its place. Hopefully this fixes it lol
#7
Still have yet to solve it. I just decided to jump the wires so the windows are up fully. I tried what 350 said with the circuit breaker, but no luck! Most likely the problem is somewhere behind the dash.
Last edited by Sir_wankel; May 14th, 2019 at 11:56 AM.
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#8
ive seen where the harness goes from door to body in the hinge area the constant open and closing of the door BREAKS the wires....they get fatigued and break internally........check for power on the wires before and after the hinge opening.....