The Dark Side of Will

I have a 2006 Express 3500 Extended Diesel.

The van was not built with cruise control. The ignition lock failed. While I had the column apart to replace it, I replaced the multi-function switch with the cruise control version. Now the cruise works.

Now I'm curious about adding the USB ports, 120V aux outlet and other dash electrical options the van wasn't built with. Are there any good threads or other info on this?

I also need to get smart on options for trailer wiring and high current electrical chassis electrical connections, e.g. Anderson Power Pole or similar, for winches and jumper cables.

GatorHawk24

I'll let someone with more experience answer the cruise control question. Sometimes, those "extras" require reprogramming in addition to the physical modifications. I'd hate for you to install everything and be left with a non-functional add-on because the dealer refuses, or is unable, to reprogram (if it's necessary).

My van came with a 120v outlet in the dash, but it should be easy to add one. Inverters are relatively inexpensive and you can directly wire one to your battery or the fuse block under the hood (with its own in-line fuse of course). Then find a suitable place to securely hide it behind the dash and run an auxiliary plug to a location of your choice on the dash, or just mount the inverter where it's convenient to plug into. A modified sine wave inverter is probably good enough for most things, but if you want clean AC power look for a pure sine wave inverter. They cost more, but they are much better for sensitive electronics that may get plugged into the outlet. There are a couple plastic plugs in the firewall, near the driver's feet that make it easy to send new wires from the engine compartment to the interior. Be sure to size your wire appropriately, since 12v DC needs fat cables to carry the ampere load if you plan to install a large inverter.

I've added several USB outlets in my van (one for each row in the back... makes the kids happy). For this I used a fuse tap (you can buy a 10 pack for around $10 on Amazon) in the fuse block under the driver's seat. I'm not sure if you 2006 has the same fuse panel located their, but it's the same process just with longer wire runs if you have to tap into the fuse block in the engine compartment. If you tap into the fuse block, you'll want to research when different circuits are powered before you tap into it because it may not be designed for the amount of power you plan to draw (matching the fuse rating should remedy this) and your new line will share the same active/inactive characteristics as the original circuit (i.e. always hot, on with acc power, or on only with the headlights, etc...). I then ran the wire down the side of the van in the hollow frame member behind the plastic body panels and daisy chained the USB plugs in series. To make installation easier, I strongly recommend buying socket panels (like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-3-Hole-...-/254242050130) if the USB plug doesn't come with it. The USB outlets are usually a barrel shape with a threaded plastic nut to hold them in place. These loosen over time, and the screwed-in panel will allow you to remove them without taking the entire interior body panel.

etrailer.com and youtube.com have some good videos for trailer wiring (that's where I got my information when I wired in my 7pin trailer plug and trailer brakes), but I'll have to pass on the requirements for winches, etc. I included a list of my setup here: https://chevroletforum.com/forum/exp...erience-94571/

The Dark Side of Will

I already installed the cruise switch. That works just fine.

I would expect the inverter and USB charging ports in the dash to be fairly easy to add. I totally get if it's a little harder to hook up USB data to a radio with MP3 player function.
I just don't know when these features were introduced, so I don't really know where to start looking for the parts. I'm fine with GM's inverter... they do enough validation and torture testing that it should be a pretty good unit within its range of power output.

I am actually great with wiring... done multiple EFI engine swaps. I just don't want to reinvent the wheel on the easy stuff if I don't have to.

Thanks for the link! Subscribed to that thread.

mountainmanjoe

The GM inverter is not very powerful and likely overpriced.

The Dark Side of Will

Hmm... yeah, I hadn't looked up the power rating. I'll need to check that out and see what it has. I'm not trying to run a foreman grille.
I'm sure some of that cost comes from validation testing and the automotive environmental ratings.

mountainmanjoe

so what do you intend to run?