Bleeding 95 G20 4WAL
#1
CF Beginner
Thread Starter
Bleeding 95 G20 4WAL
Hello,
I have to bleed out air on a 95 G20 with 4WAL.
Has anyone done this with a OBD1 tool/scanner like Actron 9690 or others ?
What tool will work on this OBD1 ?
It`s possible to open two bleedvalves on top of the unit, but it has very limited space to work between the bottom and the ABS assy.
I don`t want to break the bleeders, because it`s not turned for last 24 years and shure hard to open.
Thanks from cold north of Germany
(6°C/42 F)
I have to bleed out air on a 95 G20 with 4WAL.
Has anyone done this with a OBD1 tool/scanner like Actron 9690 or others ?
What tool will work on this OBD1 ?
It`s possible to open two bleedvalves on top of the unit, but it has very limited space to work between the bottom and the ABS assy.
I don`t want to break the bleeders, because it`s not turned for last 24 years and shure hard to open.
Thanks from cold north of Germany
(6°C/42 F)
#2
I am not sure what your trying to bleed as i am not up on newer vans and i didn't know you could bleed anything with just a scan tool but if your talking break lines i know a few things that have worked when trying to avoid breaking breeders on calipers and wheel cyclenders. I will check back later to see if you have explained your troubles more clearly or maybe i will learn something new which i always enjoy. Good luck and please post any cures you find .
#3
CF Beginner
Thread Starter
Hi cablesplicer,
do to a bad mistake I drain nearly the complet system over the winter when the van is lifted two feet over ground on stands.
And now I have to bleed the breaksystem.
And therefor I have to bleed the ABS-Modul too.
It has two override skrews on LH + RH and two bleederskrews on top.
And between ABS module and vanfloor are 1".
So it will hard to work with a tool in this limited space.
But it would be more simple with a diagnostictool that put on motor and valves to bleed internal unit.
Meanwhile I get a answer from Actron and know I have to use a Tech 1 or anything like this, because Actron can`t power on this testrun.
Hope You understand my dicription because my language is usually german....
do to a bad mistake I drain nearly the complet system over the winter when the van is lifted two feet over ground on stands.
And now I have to bleed the breaksystem.
And therefor I have to bleed the ABS-Modul too.
It has two override skrews on LH + RH and two bleederskrews on top.
And between ABS module and vanfloor are 1".
So it will hard to work with a tool in this limited space.
But it would be more simple with a diagnostictool that put on motor and valves to bleed internal unit.
Meanwhile I get a answer from Actron and know I have to use a Tech 1 or anything like this, because Actron can`t power on this testrun.
Hope You understand my dicription because my language is usually german....
#4
CF Monarch
I don't think a code reader OBD1 will read ABS. My suggestion, first, if you can use a penetrating oil (spray) on the bleeder valves, let it set for a day before trying to open them. If possible use a socket instead of a wrench, if you cannot get a socket try a box end wrench. Another thing, as I read there is no fluid in the reservoir? You can add fluid, and try to gravity bleed fluid through the calipers (front) by breaking loose the brake lines to the calipers. That's a start.
#5
thank you I now understand about your question and since I don't know about these newer abs brake systems [and thanks for teaching me something new] I can't give any better advice then kevinkpk [he for sure knows more then I] I think his idea is sound advice. I have had good luck removing old stuck bleeders with blaster and my dewalt 3/8 drive , 22v ,impact with a 5 point socket but with the limited space you have that will not work . sorry I was not helpful.
#6
CF Beginner
Thread Starter
kevinkpk : I don't think a code reader OBD1 will read ABS
Thats right, only a diaghosticscanner with menue option is able to do this.
Like here in YT:
But I had a idea to lower the ABS unit to reach the bleedersrews
And so it is possible to turn the bleeder on top of unit:
The yellow strap is to press the two valvepins. That`s opens this valves without power on unit.
I hope ,it saves me about 350 Euro for a Tech 1 scantool.( two times filling up vans 33Gal. tank at this silly german gasprices)
If my calculation is right we pay about 5 $ for a Gallon gas and most is tax.
Anyway, I try and post it.
Thats right, only a diaghosticscanner with menue option is able to do this.
Like here in YT:
But I had a idea to lower the ABS unit to reach the bleedersrews
And so it is possible to turn the bleeder on top of unit:
The yellow strap is to press the two valvepins. That`s opens this valves without power on unit.
I hope ,it saves me about 350 Euro for a Tech 1 scantool.( two times filling up vans 33Gal. tank at this silly german gasprices)
If my calculation is right we pay about 5 $ for a Gallon gas and most is tax.
Anyway, I try and post it.
#7
CF Beginner
Thread Starter
Hello,
I fixed the airproblem in the ABS block totay.
Like in the post before, I lowered the ABS modul to reach the bleeder with a 5/16 wrench.
At first we, my wife on pedal and I under the van, bleed the rear side, then front side on top of modul.
It was a lot of air to push out fo the modul.
Unbeleavable, but 3 times pushing the brakepedal down, and only air in the tube over modul-bleedervalve.
The yellow strap din`t realy work. I had aditional push in the smal pins at end of valves beside the pumpmotor with fingertip.
After this the Wheelcylinder: RR, RL, FR and FL are next step.
Lowering the van to floor and testdrive was realy sucsessfull.
It brakes like new.
I`m so glad ,don`t have to by the Tech 1 for this.
Sorry for gramatic failure........
I fixed the airproblem in the ABS block totay.
Like in the post before, I lowered the ABS modul to reach the bleeder with a 5/16 wrench.
At first we, my wife on pedal and I under the van, bleed the rear side, then front side on top of modul.
It was a lot of air to push out fo the modul.
Unbeleavable, but 3 times pushing the brakepedal down, and only air in the tube over modul-bleedervalve.
The yellow strap din`t realy work. I had aditional push in the smal pins at end of valves beside the pumpmotor with fingertip.
After this the Wheelcylinder: RR, RL, FR and FL are next step.
Lowering the van to floor and testdrive was realy sucsessfull.
It brakes like new.
I`m so glad ,don`t have to by the Tech 1 for this.
Sorry for gramatic failure........
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#8
1995 I think is the only year to have that four wheel ABS as standard. Mine, someone had already plumbed out the rear wheels and it was non-functional. I ended up plumbing out the right front when it blew a line. It stopped pretty terrible after that even though aside that unit the system is the same as on previous years without it. Not long after I discovered terminal rust in the frame rails and retired it.
While a G-van without this unit you can one man gravity bleed very easily, I wouldn't attempt one of these without a pressure unit of some sort. I don't know how you got past the combo valve to bleed it but glad to see it worked out.
While a G-van without this unit you can one man gravity bleed very easily, I wouldn't attempt one of these without a pressure unit of some sort. I don't know how you got past the combo valve to bleed it but glad to see it worked out.