General Questions: 1988 G20 Sportvan
#1
General Questions: 1988 G20 Sportvan
I recently bought a 1988 G20 Sportvan (4-Speed, 350 V8) and needed some tips:
1. most pressingly, it was lightly coach built by a company out of Michigan named "Debut Coach", I can't find any information on this company, any leads would be great
2. It comes with a simple card table, the card table has a pole that you shove into the bottom, but I can't seem to find the place in the floor of the van where the pole is suppose to go so it can stand upright, anyone know about this?
3. I'd like to know how to fold the bed out, if anyone has a G20 with the folding bed or if this is a feature that varies from conversion to conversion
4. Maintenance tips? I plan to use this mostly as a tour van for my band. I'm somewhat savvy with cars but American cars, let alone a van, is new territory for me, I've never maintained a vehicle that will do light hauling and only be used occasionally (when I say "Haul" i'm talking mostly band equipment which is generally no more than I'd say 700lbs maximum, likely in a trailer, with 4 other young idiots in the car besides myself)
The van itself has been very well maintained, it's from Michigan so it's got underside rust but mostly it's been kept at bay and I could easily grind it away. No mechanical or electrical gremlins which is a first, I've never seen a car that's held up so well for its age.
thanks!
1. most pressingly, it was lightly coach built by a company out of Michigan named "Debut Coach", I can't find any information on this company, any leads would be great
2. It comes with a simple card table, the card table has a pole that you shove into the bottom, but I can't seem to find the place in the floor of the van where the pole is suppose to go so it can stand upright, anyone know about this?
3. I'd like to know how to fold the bed out, if anyone has a G20 with the folding bed or if this is a feature that varies from conversion to conversion
4. Maintenance tips? I plan to use this mostly as a tour van for my band. I'm somewhat savvy with cars but American cars, let alone a van, is new territory for me, I've never maintained a vehicle that will do light hauling and only be used occasionally (when I say "Haul" i'm talking mostly band equipment which is generally no more than I'd say 700lbs maximum, likely in a trailer, with 4 other young idiots in the car besides myself)
The van itself has been very well maintained, it's from Michigan so it's got underside rust but mostly it's been kept at bay and I could easily grind it away. No mechanical or electrical gremlins which is a first, I've never seen a car that's held up so well for its age.
thanks!
#3
CF Junior Member
Better late then never but ..... there is an optional 3 legged fold out stand available for those tables
available on the bay as " Heng's Industries HG-TL Folding Table Leg Base - 96-0895 "
Cheers ....... Vinny
available on the bay as " Heng's Industries HG-TL Folding Table Leg Base - 96-0895 "
Cheers ....... Vinny
#4
Rear bench is the bed. Usually you lift the front of the bottom cushion and pull towards you a bit and it folds down easily. They're so-so to sleep on. One night it was very cold and I didn't even flip it down, figured I'd be warmer and I slept fine that way.
Keep the oil changed, keep the trans full, watch for leaking axle seals and pinion yoke seal, I've run mine with 1500 lbs of junk in the back and it wasn't a problem.
Another tip, put a new fuel filter on. Just cut the lines six inches either side of the filter, use fuel line hose and clamps to reconnect it (the filter connections are special). These only run 14 PSI so it's no big deal. I highly suggest re-routing the line out around the shock instead of inside of it, you should have existing holes in the crossmember (use an extra piece of hose to protect the metal line). The number one place these rust that becomes a problem is below those shock mounts and the fuel line through behind helps hold moisture against the frame rail.
If it does act up, a paper clip bent to connect the A and B terminals of the diagnostic connector and turn the key on and it will flash the codes to you.
You probably won't find much info on the conversion company, most of those converters have gone out of business.
Keep the oil changed, keep the trans full, watch for leaking axle seals and pinion yoke seal, I've run mine with 1500 lbs of junk in the back and it wasn't a problem.
Another tip, put a new fuel filter on. Just cut the lines six inches either side of the filter, use fuel line hose and clamps to reconnect it (the filter connections are special). These only run 14 PSI so it's no big deal. I highly suggest re-routing the line out around the shock instead of inside of it, you should have existing holes in the crossmember (use an extra piece of hose to protect the metal line). The number one place these rust that becomes a problem is below those shock mounts and the fuel line through behind helps hold moisture against the frame rail.
If it does act up, a paper clip bent to connect the A and B terminals of the diagnostic connector and turn the key on and it will flash the codes to you.
You probably won't find much info on the conversion company, most of those converters have gone out of business.