JOverton

yes I agree that’s why I apologized for not being more detailed in the beginning. But back to my van, the fuse box underneath the hood where the starter relay & fuel pump relay are located can I pull the starter relay & use it as fuel pump relay to see if pump will come on even though it only has 4 prongs where my fuel pump relay has 5?
And yes I’ve checked all fuses inside and under hood & all are good. And any advice on how to eliminate or find out if it’s my ignition?

Rednucleus

So it worked before you did the battery & wires, now it doesn't. I think you should start by carefully rechecking everything you did - only makes sense that's where the problem likely is hiding. Especially battery post connections

JOverton

ok when I tested for continuity on my starter relay and it reads 80, that’s positive lead to #86 & negative to #85. I get the same reading for fuel pump relay testing the same prongs #86&#87

JOverton

rechecked everything I did between starter and battery all connections are good. But still doesn’t explain why my fuel pump and DRL won’t come on now. I even turned my key to on position and tried to jump stater with a piece of wire & it just sparked but didn’t engage my solenoid forward

JOverton

also when I have key turned on my blinkers don’t work but my hazards do if that helps anymore with the troubleshooting

JOverton

and before all this started my “service engine soon” light was always on, now no light and no security light has come either???

RoadTrip

My money is on that you made the wrong connection on the starter terminals when you replaced the positive lead. It can be hard to see the connections, but disconnect the negative on the battery, and double check your connections on the starter.

JOverton

Come on, I’ve already checked all my connections and there’s only 2 wires on the starter that come off/on and they’re the difference between a quarter and dime in diameter

RoadTrip

Start with the simple things first.

Next, have your new battery draw tested at an auto parts store. Sometimes batteries sit for months in inventory and are bad when you get them home.

The fact that a high draw from your starter caused you to replace the battery, indicates your starter may have issues too. Pull it off and bring it with your battery for the store to test. Keep in mind, store testing does not place the load of an engine on the starter. Commuter brushes could be worn down/stuck.

JOverton

I agree with all that and will have it done but that still wouldn’t solve why my DRL, blinkers, fuel pump not coming on. Was wondering if it could be my ignition or my computer. Read something about a “relearn”, is that something that cud be wrong and would it hurt to do that procedure. If so cud anyone explain how to do that