93 5.7 no spark, no fuel, no code after dead battery
May 26th, 2017, 5:27 PM
#1
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93 5.7 no spark, no fuel, no code after dead battery
I'm working on a truck for a friend.
The story goes: truck ran without a tick when he drove it to work but he left the lights on for 14 hours. When he tried to start it he put a jump pack on it (he says the jump pack indicated it was attached backwards but he said he double checked the lines and they were correct) . When he tried to start it the wire from the alternator to the battery fried. It was replaced along with the battery. Now it cranks but no spark, no fuel from the injectors (I can hear the pump run), and when I watch for a code it blinks 12 every time which in the book says no problem. Although I read on a forum that it meant crank sensor could be bad, I inspected the motor to not find a sensor and upon further reading found out timing comes from the coil inside the distributor. I tested it in AC and got .745 which is in working conditions (.3-1.5). I've also tried the led and test light test for the ignition control module (icu) with these results:
12v test light (+) coil power wire to battery (-)
key off: off
Key on: on
Cranking: on
Test light (+) coil power wire to battery (+)
Key off: on
Key on: off
Cranking: off
Test light (-) signal wire to battery (-)
Key off: off
Key on: on
Cranking: on (no pulse)
Test light (-) signal wire to battery (+)
Key off: on
Key on: off
Cranking: off (no pulse)
I replaced the coil and received the same data.i have also replaced the ICU and the computer (used off of a running truck) with the same result.
Is it possible that the ignition switch could be bad?
Fuses are all good...
What do I do next?...
The story goes: truck ran without a tick when he drove it to work but he left the lights on for 14 hours. When he tried to start it he put a jump pack on it (he says the jump pack indicated it was attached backwards but he said he double checked the lines and they were correct) . When he tried to start it the wire from the alternator to the battery fried. It was replaced along with the battery. Now it cranks but no spark, no fuel from the injectors (I can hear the pump run), and when I watch for a code it blinks 12 every time which in the book says no problem. Although I read on a forum that it meant crank sensor could be bad, I inspected the motor to not find a sensor and upon further reading found out timing comes from the coil inside the distributor. I tested it in AC and got .745 which is in working conditions (.3-1.5). I've also tried the led and test light test for the ignition control module (icu) with these results:
12v test light (+) coil power wire to battery (-)
key off: off
Key on: on
Cranking: on
Test light (+) coil power wire to battery (+)
Key off: on
Key on: off
Cranking: off
Test light (-) signal wire to battery (-)
Key off: off
Key on: on
Cranking: on (no pulse)
Test light (-) signal wire to battery (+)
Key off: on
Key on: off
Cranking: off (no pulse)
I replaced the coil and received the same data.i have also replaced the ICU and the computer (used off of a running truck) with the same result.
Is it possible that the ignition switch could be bad?
Fuses are all good...
What do I do next?...
May 26th, 2017, 5:55 PM
#4
CF Monarch
All I can suggest is unhook the battery, charge it seperatley, code 12 on obd1 is key on, and not running. Try hooking it up polarity correct, see what happens.
May 26th, 2017, 5:59 PM
#5
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It has a new battery hooked correctly, it was the jump pack hooked improperly to the old battery. When I started on it, I tested the battery and it had 1.3 volts first thing I did was remove it and replaced it with a good battery from his Buick with the same hook ups.