Brake Light switch issues
November 6th, 2016, 9:31 AM
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Brake Light switch issues
I have a 1996 Chevy Silverado custom extra cab truck that was modified by a company called REGENCY out of Fort Worth, Texas.
I am having some recurring issues with my brake lights switch going bad after being replaced, usually I get about two or three months use out of the switch, which I have been buying from local NAPA parts dealer.
The switch is identical in construction to the Chevy dealer switch.
I am suspicious that the truck wiring behind the dash has been cut into in so many places by the REGENCY folks when they did their custom install for various accessories, that maybe now I a wire or set of wires that is
possibly grounding out and shorting out the Brake lights switch ?
Has anyone else out there had any similar issues ? What is the FIX for this problem ?
I am contemplating taking the truck to troubleshooter that works on electrical problems in vehicles here in the Memphis,Tennessee area. He charges $30 per hour to troubleshoot.
What say you ???
I am having some recurring issues with my brake lights switch going bad after being replaced, usually I get about two or three months use out of the switch, which I have been buying from local NAPA parts dealer.
The switch is identical in construction to the Chevy dealer switch.
I am suspicious that the truck wiring behind the dash has been cut into in so many places by the REGENCY folks when they did their custom install for various accessories, that maybe now I a wire or set of wires that is
possibly grounding out and shorting out the Brake lights switch ?
Has anyone else out there had any similar issues ? What is the FIX for this problem ?
I am contemplating taking the truck to troubleshooter that works on electrical problems in vehicles here in the Memphis,Tennessee area. He charges $30 per hour to troubleshoot.
What say you ???
November 6th, 2016, 9:42 AM
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first i think thirty bucks an hour to troubleshoot is exceptional..compared to most secondary market repair shops start at $101.00 here in nebraska.
Best thing is to have them check where the short is and then go from there..if it's an easy fix..I'd go for the pro doing the work.. it will save your mental peace in the long run lol.
Kat
Best thing is to have them check where the short is and then go from there..if it's an easy fix..I'd go for the pro doing the work.. it will save your mental peace in the long run lol.
Kat
November 6th, 2016, 9:55 AM
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temp and gas guage go active with key off
I had a bad reconditioned battery put into my truck.. it was cheap so i elected to let them put it in...and the next day i noticed my alternator was screaming hot to the touch.. i had to jump the truck each day to get to work.. i since then had the battery replaced..and everything is fine for the alternator, and my dome light and head lights are bright again.. and the alt. does not scream of heat. It is still charging at 14.2 on the gauge.
Then when I was shutting the drivers door, i watched the dome light stay on a few seconds as usual, then i looked at the dash gauges and noticed the temp and fuel gauges rise to 12:00 position after the dome light went off.
Is this normal for this truck.. a 2004 chevy LS crewcab?
It does not seem to take down the battery at all, and i have been able to restart the truck every morning without fail.
If this isn't suppose to happen.. how do i go about fixing it.. because all my gauges work properly when i start up.. thanks for any comments
Kat
Then when I was shutting the drivers door, i watched the dome light stay on a few seconds as usual, then i looked at the dash gauges and noticed the temp and fuel gauges rise to 12:00 position after the dome light went off.
Is this normal for this truck.. a 2004 chevy LS crewcab?
It does not seem to take down the battery at all, and i have been able to restart the truck every morning without fail.
If this isn't suppose to happen.. how do i go about fixing it.. because all my gauges work properly when i start up.. thanks for any comments
Kat