Thermometer goes up and down at stop
July 16th, 2014, 1:28 PM
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Thermometer goes up and down at stop
My chevy equinox 05, when the vehicle is stopped the thermometer goes up high then goes back down when I start moving again. I got a new radiator hopefully to fix the problem but it is back again. May I just be low on coolant?
July 17th, 2014, 11:51 AM
#3
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A rise in temperature when coming to a stop, is an unavoidable and natural function.
As your RPM's drop and the Fan Speed and Ram Air from forward motion lower, the engine temperature rises, and it takes a moment for the Thermostat to recognize this, open, and compensate for the rise.
Most times, the Gauge in our Vehicles, are electrically attenuated to reduce their action for a sort period, where the operator doesn't notice the fluctuation. In years past, just an illuminated place in your instrument panel, was the only reference to temperature.
Good advice has been given, and I'm not saying that you don't have a problem. But, I would focus on the Thermostat being a bit slow to open as well.
Below is a copy/paste of some information from another thread. You may/have done some of these things, but, it may give you an idea of additional work you may need, and may be helpful to others which may be experiencing cooling problems.
DIY TASKS:
1)Establish that the Fan Clutch is operating properly by hand (cold turns freely)(hot turns with resistance). If you don't have a Clutch Fan, then skip this step.
2)Operate Cabin Heater(s) full hot. And establish that there are no pockets of Air captured in cooling system.
3)Make sure that ALL hoses aren't collapsing (have good internal wire support) Collapse most obvious when the engine has cooled completely.
POSSIBLE SHOP ASSIST:
4)Use/have the Coolant proportion tested with an Antifreeze Tester. 50/50% customarily gives you the best transfer of heat, but, follow the directions of the Coolant Manufacturer for best results.
5)Take Vehicle by a Radiator Shop, and have them check/sniff the headroom/air in the Radiator for any Fuel Gas which may be leaking into the Cooling System. Even a small amount, which won't/doesn't immediately affect your Reservoirlevel, can make a large difference in cooling.
6)Do a good Clean/Flush on the Cooling System. (back-flush Heater Cores as well).
7)See that the Thermostat is opening fully at the recommended temp. (place it inhot water and check with a Thermometer).
8)Have the Radiator Cap tested for proper pop-off/release pressure and gasket integrity (or just replace it).
9)Do a thorough visual inspection of your Water Pump (or just replace it) and make sure that the blades are in good condition, and able to drive the Coolant with sufficient volume.
10)Rod/pro clean the Radiator, and make sure that it's the one that should be on your vehicle. You also could search for another Radiator which had more tubes (thicker) which is designed to cool better (frequently found on vehicles which have "Cooling Packages" installed).
PARTS CHANGE:
11)You could increase the number of blades on your Fan. I've seen Fans which hadas many as Eleven blades. Nine blades is more usual for extra cooling. This type Fan can move a LOT of air at slowspeeds/RPM's. This applies to Clutch or Direct Shaft Driven Fans.
12)Install a "smaller" shive/pulley for the Fan. Smaller diameter will drive the Fan and Pump faster.
13)Consider (if Auto-Trans Equipped) to separate/divert the Transmission Oil out away from the Radiator, to an Add-On Cooler of its own. There's more than oneway to do this (requires further discussion).
14)Install Thermostatically controlled Booster Electric Fans ahead of the Radiator-A/C Condenser.
<o
</o
Items have been categorized for convenience, you may do any of these procedures yourself, and the purchase of Tools or Testing Equipment would be necessary.
As your RPM's drop and the Fan Speed and Ram Air from forward motion lower, the engine temperature rises, and it takes a moment for the Thermostat to recognize this, open, and compensate for the rise.
Most times, the Gauge in our Vehicles, are electrically attenuated to reduce their action for a sort period, where the operator doesn't notice the fluctuation. In years past, just an illuminated place in your instrument panel, was the only reference to temperature.
Good advice has been given, and I'm not saying that you don't have a problem. But, I would focus on the Thermostat being a bit slow to open as well.
Below is a copy/paste of some information from another thread. You may/have done some of these things, but, it may give you an idea of additional work you may need, and may be helpful to others which may be experiencing cooling problems.
DIY TASKS:
1)Establish that the Fan Clutch is operating properly by hand (cold turns freely)(hot turns with resistance). If you don't have a Clutch Fan, then skip this step.
2)Operate Cabin Heater(s) full hot. And establish that there are no pockets of Air captured in cooling system.
3)Make sure that ALL hoses aren't collapsing (have good internal wire support) Collapse most obvious when the engine has cooled completely.
POSSIBLE SHOP ASSIST:
4)Use/have the Coolant proportion tested with an Antifreeze Tester. 50/50% customarily gives you the best transfer of heat, but, follow the directions of the Coolant Manufacturer for best results.
5)Take Vehicle by a Radiator Shop, and have them check/sniff the headroom/air in the Radiator for any Fuel Gas which may be leaking into the Cooling System. Even a small amount, which won't/doesn't immediately affect your Reservoirlevel, can make a large difference in cooling.
6)Do a good Clean/Flush on the Cooling System. (back-flush Heater Cores as well).
7)See that the Thermostat is opening fully at the recommended temp. (place it inhot water and check with a Thermometer).
8)Have the Radiator Cap tested for proper pop-off/release pressure and gasket integrity (or just replace it).
9)Do a thorough visual inspection of your Water Pump (or just replace it) and make sure that the blades are in good condition, and able to drive the Coolant with sufficient volume.
10)Rod/pro clean the Radiator, and make sure that it's the one that should be on your vehicle. You also could search for another Radiator which had more tubes (thicker) which is designed to cool better (frequently found on vehicles which have "Cooling Packages" installed).
PARTS CHANGE:
11)You could increase the number of blades on your Fan. I've seen Fans which hadas many as Eleven blades. Nine blades is more usual for extra cooling. This type Fan can move a LOT of air at slowspeeds/RPM's. This applies to Clutch or Direct Shaft Driven Fans.
12)Install a "smaller" shive/pulley for the Fan. Smaller diameter will drive the Fan and Pump faster.
13)Consider (if Auto-Trans Equipped) to separate/divert the Transmission Oil out away from the Radiator, to an Add-On Cooler of its own. There's more than oneway to do this (requires further discussion).
14)Install Thermostatically controlled Booster Electric Fans ahead of the Radiator-A/C Condenser.
<o
</oItems have been categorized for convenience, you may do any of these procedures yourself, and the purchase of Tools or Testing Equipment would be necessary.
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