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- Chevrolet Silverado 1999-2006 GMT800 How to Replace Blend Door and Actuator
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Blend door Actuator
May 19th, 2014, 11:20 AM
#11
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Blend Door comfort level
There is one spot on blue that will send 'that' set the actuator off. On my 08 Impala, it will go off at any time while just parked. I have noticed that temp change is a factor. Open/close door or trunk will set the actuator off.
Repair /replace is not one of my options. I will continue to focus on disable the system. If I can maintain three ducts at max cool, I can deal with the passenger dash duct a tad on the warm side. I have it closed off. It will need to be opened just a tad to stop the annoying singing. My comfort level O K.
Today, I will remove the trunk/ pass & driver light blub. This may be the circuit that turns on the signal. I will remain old-school design phase. I miss my '55 Chevy hard top/'66 Impala/'68 Nova/'69 ElCo 409 ..... I will linger down memory lane no longer.
Repair /replace is not one of my options. I will continue to focus on disable the system. If I can maintain three ducts at max cool, I can deal with the passenger dash duct a tad on the warm side. I have it closed off. It will need to be opened just a tad to stop the annoying singing. My comfort level O K.
Today, I will remove the trunk/ pass & driver light blub. This may be the circuit that turns on the signal. I will remain old-school design phase. I miss my '55 Chevy hard top/'66 Impala/'68 Nova/'69 ElCo 409 ..... I will linger down memory lane no longer.
I have found that remote-start on a hot day will cause these actuators to cycle several times. Having watched this for a while I can see where the stupidity occurred in the design phase. The computer control kicks in and drives these things to the limits and back with each commencement. As long as the comfort tabs are set at max cool or max heat there will be no stress on the actuators. It's when the levers are set in-between that causes the added stress. I've gotten into the habit of shifting mine to max cool at every shutdown. You'd think this would be settable at the shop but all the answers I received so far has been "no can do".
Another problem is the thin plastic temp control housing that warps and wanes in the hot environment causing the blend doors to jam during the actuator cycling.
Just bad GM juju.
Another problem is the thin plastic temp control housing that warps and wanes in the hot environment causing the blend doors to jam during the actuator cycling.
Just bad GM juju.
August 13th, 2020, 1:08 PM
#12
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Problem: Passenger side heat door actuator makes clicking noise upon unlock/entry to the vehicle and/or when adjusting the passenger side Hot/Cold vent controller. Removed Passenger side actuator, took apart and found bad gear due to binding.
Repair #1: Replace passenger side actuator with new part.
Result: Passenger side actuator still binding (making clicking noise).
Repair #2: Re-calibrate all vents using ScanTool as per this video:
Result: Passenger side actuator still binding (making clicking noise).
Repair #3: Replace Hot/Cold vent control in the dash (rheostat?)
Result: ???
It seems to me that after replacing the actuator, whether due to bad teeth or not, and the problem persists then the Hot/Cold vent control would be the next likely culprit. The first two repairs did not correct the original problem of "Passenger side heat door actuator makes clicking noise upon unlock/entry to the vehicle and/or when adjusting the passenger side Hot/Cold vent control." Additionally I observed that while I had the actuator removed (viewing the backside to line up the slotted hole with the heat door position) adjusting the Hot/Cold vent controller at certain positions would cause the actuator to run constant for 20 seconds. Has anyone considered replacing the Hot/Cold vent controller in the dash?
NOTE #1: These symptoms randomly occured 4 times over the course of 2 weeks prior to being constant. Constant occurrence began after using the autostart feature on a very hot day.
NOTE #2: Performing a recalibration is almost always recommended to ensure proper function and to avoid breaking gears in new actuators.
Repair #1: Replace passenger side actuator with new part.
Result: Passenger side actuator still binding (making clicking noise).
Repair #2: Re-calibrate all vents using ScanTool as per this video:
Result: Passenger side actuator still binding (making clicking noise).
Repair #3: Replace Hot/Cold vent control in the dash (rheostat?)
Result: ???
It seems to me that after replacing the actuator, whether due to bad teeth or not, and the problem persists then the Hot/Cold vent control would be the next likely culprit. The first two repairs did not correct the original problem of "Passenger side heat door actuator makes clicking noise upon unlock/entry to the vehicle and/or when adjusting the passenger side Hot/Cold vent control." Additionally I observed that while I had the actuator removed (viewing the backside to line up the slotted hole with the heat door position) adjusting the Hot/Cold vent controller at certain positions would cause the actuator to run constant for 20 seconds. Has anyone considered replacing the Hot/Cold vent controller in the dash?
NOTE #1: These symptoms randomly occured 4 times over the course of 2 weeks prior to being constant. Constant occurrence began after using the autostart feature on a very hot day.
NOTE #2: Performing a recalibration is almost always recommended to ensure proper function and to avoid breaking gears in new actuators.
October 28th, 2020, 9:29 PM
#13
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Location: Arlington Tx
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2013 Chevy Impala ltz
I’m New Here And I Can’t Seem To Figure Out Why My Door Actuator Knocks When The Car Is Off And When I Close The Hood Or Shut My Door It Started When I Had Too Boost My Car 2 Times It Never Did It When I Boosted The First Time. I’ve Also Did Some Research And It Said I Had Too Recalibrate It With A Scan Tool Any Ideas Thanks?
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