I am having the same issue with the passlock. I replaced just the ignition switch and not the key cylinder and the suggestion of a parts guy but the problem reappeard in a week. I had the parts department at the dealer make a new ignition cylinder and planned to install it and have dealer reprogram the BCM but now the keyless entry is not working. Both FOBs tested good at the autparts store tester. Is now the BCM going bad? Should I now go put in a BCM at the same time I replace the igntion switch so that I will not have to pay twice to reprogram the BCM or is the FOB receiver not in the BCM. What would be the best approach to handle this problem? I dont mind paying the dealer for some diagnostic work but they wanted $750 just to replace the key cylinder and the ignition switch alone.

 

Welcome to the forum. An automotive locksmith can rekey a new lock cylinder, install it, and program it into the BCM for much less. The locksmith can also get the RCLDR module to relearn the key fobs or tell you if the problem is the RCDLR or key fobs.

 

Shawnvw _ you sound like the PROBLEM with GM (union thug)! Will not acknowledge the problem with GM vehicles not starting! Just belittle everyone who comes up with a solution to the ongoing problem of GM vehicles intermittently NOT starting. This has been proven to be an easy & inexpensive fix BUT GM continues to try to sell us $700 worth of part + labor to resolve this issue. This is a main reason I will stay away from GM products in the future<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>

 

What brought that about? It's "an easy & inexpensive fix" only if you you had the equipment and know-how to diagnose it properly. And, who the hell are you to badmouth shawnvw who's been nothing but a consistent and helpful contributor?

 

I know I'm digging up some bones here, but IIRC, the heater/ac and cruise control are often on the same fuse. Maybe you've got a wiring short somewhere? I know tracing wires inside the dash can be a bitch, but it's better than paying $800 for something you probably don't need.

 

Oh definitely... but if you don't break anything...
I suppose I assumed that anyone who would undertake such a thing would know what they're doing.

 

Yup, "bones," real old ones, no less. Now, this $700-800 seem outrageous but you know the old saying along the line of "it's gonna cost you double, if you screw around with it first." More often than not it does take more time to redo or otherwise fix the screwup so long as you have to guarantee the repair.

 

could you send me the diagram I have this same problem

 

Welcome to the forum. This thread contains over 100 posts. You may want to quote the post you're responding to or address it's author. Also, include some information about your vehicle (make, year, model, etc.).

 

Hello everyone. I was having the same problem on my car. After doing the key restart for several months it finally got to where it would never start.

The dealer wanted to charge me $1000 just for the parts to fix it and to be honest I would rather set it on fire then give them another dime.

I found that you can do the wire cut mehtod but this will only provide you a temporary fix. Eventually the other parts of the system will fail and you will be back to square one.

I got lucky because I found this site How to disable and remove VATS, PASSKey and Passlock Security Systems in GM cars. They sell a bypass that takes passlock out of the equation forever. No more failing parts. They also sell a manual that will instruct you to build your own bypass if you are handy like that. I wasn't. They really saved me because there is no way I could afford the new parts. Good luck!