202 Malibu No Start Nightmare
February 28th, 2009, 5:11 PM
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202 Malibu No Start Nightmare
Hello Folks,
I got a gently used 2002 Malibu in September of last year. After about a month of owning it I would go to start the car and it would turn over but not start. It would do it at random times, usually when I really needed to get moving.
I took it to the local Chevrolet service center and they told me the ignition switch was failing. So, $345 later I have a new iginition switch. Not more than a week later the no-start problem returns. I have the car towed back to the same chevrolet service center. Now they say my fuel pump is going out. They wanted to charge me $2000+ to replace that. I ended up putting in the new fuel pump whith the help of a local mechanic for just over $200. The no-start problem is now happening more frequently and has left me with a dead battery severel times after trying to get the car to start.
Could I possibly need a new fuel filter? I have double checked my work with the fuel pump. Any advice would be great. I am really trying to keep this car running as long as possible due to the shortage of $$$.
I got a gently used 2002 Malibu in September of last year. After about a month of owning it I would go to start the car and it would turn over but not start. It would do it at random times, usually when I really needed to get moving.
I took it to the local Chevrolet service center and they told me the ignition switch was failing. So, $345 later I have a new iginition switch. Not more than a week later the no-start problem returns. I have the car towed back to the same chevrolet service center. Now they say my fuel pump is going out. They wanted to charge me $2000+ to replace that. I ended up putting in the new fuel pump whith the help of a local mechanic for just over $200. The no-start problem is now happening more frequently and has left me with a dead battery severel times after trying to get the car to start.
Could I possibly need a new fuel filter? I have double checked my work with the fuel pump. Any advice would be great. I am really trying to keep this car running as long as possible due to the shortage of $$$.
Last edited by etusn831; February 28th, 2009 at 5:14 PM.
March 1st, 2009, 9:57 AM
#2
When the no start you need to find out what is missing, no spark, no fuel injector activation, no fuel pump, you can hear that.
Throwing parts at it can get expensive.
If it is security it should start and run for a few seconds, the security light should also be flashing.
Throwing parts at it can get expensive.
If it is security it should start and run for a few seconds, the security light should also be flashing.
March 2nd, 2009, 7:25 PM
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How would I determine a lack of spark or lack of injector? I don't have a code reader yet...
Last edited by etusn831; March 2nd, 2009 at 7:28 PM. Reason: Forgot to add something...
March 5th, 2009, 1:39 PM
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Well with out a code reader its hard to tell. I will give my suggestion anyways... If by chance you have a mechanic or someone who can come out with a code reader and hook it up to it. If it comes down to an injector, swap the injector around and see if the code follows. If it does, then you found the bad injector.
Throwing money at a car is never a good idea, but I am sure its cheaper for you to pick up the fuel rails from a local junk yard then to tow it back to the dealer. I try to never suggest that, but if you cannot move the car... eh, you may buy them and then it turn out to not be an injector and that would be worse.
Ok forget about the previous no start. Start from ground zero. If the fuel filter has never been changed and you are aroun 70K I would take care of that. Second, when you try to turn on the car all the dash lights come on correct? Do you hear a click?
Third, when you turn the key to on, but do not attempt to start the car do you hear the fuel pump prime? It should sound like a whirring noise. Or as some would describe a buzzing.
Throwing money at a car is never a good idea, but I am sure its cheaper for you to pick up the fuel rails from a local junk yard then to tow it back to the dealer. I try to never suggest that, but if you cannot move the car... eh, you may buy them and then it turn out to not be an injector and that would be worse.
Ok forget about the previous no start. Start from ground zero. If the fuel filter has never been changed and you are aroun 70K I would take care of that. Second, when you try to turn on the car all the dash lights come on correct? Do you hear a click?
Third, when you turn the key to on, but do not attempt to start the car do you hear the fuel pump prime? It should sound like a whirring noise. Or as some would describe a buzzing.
March 6th, 2009, 8:09 PM
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Well with out a code reader its hard to tell. I will give my suggestion anyways... If by chance you have a mechanic or someone who can come out with a code reader and hook it up to it. If it comes down to an injector, swap the injector around and see if the code follows. If it does, then you found the bad injector.
Throwing money at a car is never a good idea, but I am sure its cheaper for you to pick up the fuel rails from a local junk yard then to tow it back to the dealer. I try to never suggest that, but if you cannot move the car... eh, you may buy them and then it turn out to not be an injector and that would be worse.
Ok forget about the previous no start. Start from ground zero. If the fuel filter has never been changed and you are aroun 70K I would take care of that. Second, when you try to turn on the car all the dash lights come on correct? Do you hear a click?
Third, when you turn the key to on, but do not attempt to start the car do you hear the fuel pump prime? It should sound like a whirring noise. Or as some would describe a buzzing.
Throwing money at a car is never a good idea, but I am sure its cheaper for you to pick up the fuel rails from a local junk yard then to tow it back to the dealer. I try to never suggest that, but if you cannot move the car... eh, you may buy them and then it turn out to not be an injector and that would be worse.
Ok forget about the previous no start. Start from ground zero. If the fuel filter has never been changed and you are aroun 70K I would take care of that. Second, when you try to turn on the car all the dash lights come on correct? Do you hear a click?
Third, when you turn the key to on, but do not attempt to start the car do you hear the fuel pump prime? It should sound like a whirring noise. Or as some would describe a buzzing.
Thanks for your help! I bought the car with 86k miles and now it has 106k so, I would imagine its time for a fuel filter. I am not hearing a click when turning the key on. But, I do hear the fuel pump prime. I also hear the fuel pump prime after each failed start. All dash lites come on and then go off. Check engine lite stays on. Also, after about 5 - 10 seconds of cranking, the fuel gauge drops to empty and the low fuel lite comes on. is that part normal?
About the code reader, will the car still show the code even if the engine starts? I would have to wait for a no-start day before I either get my mechanic friend or borrow a code reader.
March 9th, 2009, 7:23 AM
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If the key is in the on position, the fuel gauge should not drop back down. Sounds like it is possible to be an ignition switch issue. The click I was referring to would be the starter trying to function or possibly the battery. The dash lights could still possibly be on, even if the battery is not up to starting the car. So as a trial run, you could try to jump it. If it doesn't work that rules out one possibility.
Electrical problems are a PITA. The only reason I would say its not the Ignition Switch is because you still have a constant check engine light on.
To answer your question about the scan tool. Yes, you can still pull codes even if the vehicle doesn't start.
Well hopefully you can get a code reader soon. I would hate to tell you what to remove and test to diagnose that way. That's a pain and a waste of time. I would start with the starter for the hell of it if it were me. But that's a pain. Try to jump it for giggles and see what happens.
Electrical problems are a PITA. The only reason I would say its not the Ignition Switch is because you still have a constant check engine light on.
To answer your question about the scan tool. Yes, you can still pull codes even if the vehicle doesn't start.
Well hopefully you can get a code reader soon. I would hate to tell you what to remove and test to diagnose that way. That's a pain and a waste of time. I would start with the starter for the hell of it if it were me. But that's a pain. Try to jump it for giggles and see what happens.
April 1st, 2009, 9:32 AM
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This kinda of sounds like a problem we've constantly had with our malibu. It randomly just doesnt start, everything has elect. but it doesnt start. We're always told that its a faulty BCM (body control module). Its a common problem with this year and model by chevy. One trick is to turn it to the ON position for 10 mins or more, turn it off... then try to see if it cranks over... hope this helps
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April 13th, 2009, 5:03 AM
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It kind of sounds like he got a bad ignition switch installed when the first repair was made. Need to pull the codes to see what it is. I think a bad ignition switch (PASS-Lock failure) is code B2960. Will only show up on code readers that can read the BCM codes.
June 6th, 2009, 10:10 AM
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If you have Electronic Theft-Protection: I have answer
Philis09 is right on track!
This kinda of sounds like a problem we've constantly had with our malibu. It randomly just doesnt start, everything has elect. but it doesnt start. We're always told that its a faulty BCM (body control module). Its a common problem with this year and model by chevy. One trick is to turn it to the ON position for 10 mins or more, turn it off... then try to see if it cranks over... hope this helps.
I had the same start problems, and the dealer put in a new fuse box $500, then luckly under warranty I had the fuel pump changed out. IT WAS NEITHER of these problems, or the BMS. IT WAS THE STUPID ANTI_THEFT at the ignition. I spent 1 whole year at random times having to wait 10 minutes for the theft light to stop blinking in-order to start my car. That was no fun at all.
There is a simple fix that costs less than $1. Bypass the theft system by soddering a resister at the ignition wires. By bypassing the theft system, you lose that function and do not have that protection. Or have a garage add a remote starter costs btw $100-200.
Sketch222 disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damages to others vehicles, for anyone attempting the suggestions above. This is just an open forum for ideas!
This kinda of sounds like a problem we've constantly had with our malibu. It randomly just doesnt start, everything has elect. but it doesnt start. We're always told that its a faulty BCM (body control module). Its a common problem with this year and model by chevy. One trick is to turn it to the ON position for 10 mins or more, turn it off... then try to see if it cranks over... hope this helps.
I had the same start problems, and the dealer put in a new fuse box $500, then luckly under warranty I had the fuel pump changed out. IT WAS NEITHER of these problems, or the BMS. IT WAS THE STUPID ANTI_THEFT at the ignition. I spent 1 whole year at random times having to wait 10 minutes for the theft light to stop blinking in-order to start my car. That was no fun at all.
There is a simple fix that costs less than $1. Bypass the theft system by soddering a resister at the ignition wires. By bypassing the theft system, you lose that function and do not have that protection. Or have a garage add a remote starter costs btw $100-200.
Sketch222 disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damages to others vehicles, for anyone attempting the suggestions above. This is just an open forum for ideas!