1997 Tahoe ls no crank , no start
#1
1997 Tahoe ls no crank , no start
Hey guys I need some insight /help. I have a 1997 Tahoe just replaced the engine wiring harness due to a previous owner rewiring all the grounds at the neutral safety switch. I installed new starter , new battery new positive cable running to the starter. All that to say still no crank.
I did get a bump in the initial turn of the key but nothing since then. Check the starter relay as well as the fuse all good. I jumped the starter relay with a wire from 87 to 30 on the relay port nothing also. I do have power going to the starter I used a test light while ignition was on and go power to the positive post in the starter . I proceeded to test the “s” terminal on the starter and had power at this because the ignition was still in.
Bench tested the starter works fine ..HELP!’n
update! 06/24/21
Hey guys ,
I got her running but very rough . I have no power at pedal while in gear at idle it’s good slight miss but good . Just did a compression test on it and at all 8 cylinders compression is at 80psi (very low) some plugs have a lot of carbon buildup on them while cylinders 8&2 are wet #4 cylinder fires ok tan in color . Cylinders 1,3,5,7 all carbon buildup . Is the valves not seating right? I can use some help here again.
I did get a bump in the initial turn of the key but nothing since then. Check the starter relay as well as the fuse all good. I jumped the starter relay with a wire from 87 to 30 on the relay port nothing also. I do have power going to the starter I used a test light while ignition was on and go power to the positive post in the starter . I proceeded to test the “s” terminal on the starter and had power at this because the ignition was still in.
Bench tested the starter works fine ..HELP!’n
update! 06/24/21
Hey guys ,
I got her running but very rough . I have no power at pedal while in gear at idle it’s good slight miss but good . Just did a compression test on it and at all 8 cylinders compression is at 80psi (very low) some plugs have a lot of carbon buildup on them while cylinders 8&2 are wet #4 cylinder fires ok tan in color . Cylinders 1,3,5,7 all carbon buildup . Is the valves not seating right? I can use some help here again.
Last edited by ChicagoJ97; June 24th, 2021 at 2:46 PM. Reason: Wrong spelling
#2
CF Monarch
Hey guys I need some insight /help. I have a 1997 Tahoe just replaced the engine wiring harness due to a previous owner rewiring all the grounds at the neutral safety switch. I installed new starter , new battery new positive cable running to the starter. All that to say still no crank.
I did get a bump in the initial turn of the key but nothing since then. Check the starter relay as well as the fuse all good. I jumped the starter relay with a wire from 87 to 30 on the relay port nothing also. I do have power going to the starter I used a test light while ignition was on and go power to the positive post in the starter . I proceeded to test the “s” terminal on the starter and had power at this because the ignition was still in.
Bench tested the starter works fine ..HELP!’n
I did get a bump in the initial turn of the key but nothing since then. Check the starter relay as well as the fuse all good. I jumped the starter relay with a wire from 87 to 30 on the relay port nothing also. I do have power going to the starter I used a test light while ignition was on and go power to the positive post in the starter . I proceeded to test the “s” terminal on the starter and had power at this because the ignition was still in.
Bench tested the starter works fine ..HELP!’n
#3
CF Monarch
As an addendum, since you said all grounds where through the neutral safety switch, could be something there you might have missed. You can bypass the switch, however I'd not recommend it for safety issues.
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ChicagoJ97 (May 31st, 2021)
#4
yes I did . I have power to the solenoid . No crank at all when jumped . Previous meaning 20min prior I had a bump at the ignition but no crank I continued to bump it and after numerous times, it stopped doing anything.
#5
hey bud! I tried it at the neutral safety switch, with it in Neutral didn’t get anything there either. I see today as I was tracing the S terminal wire that it was spliced to a black and white wire and found another wire(brown 12#) loose also the both have power and the ignition when the key is turned on. I’m try to find the color code for wire tracing in this .
#6
Progress on no crank , no start.
Just changed the battery . All new grounds btw that’s what was causing the the no crank all grounds corroded at the block. Now I have just a no start. I get a huff at the carb sprayed some starting fluid to get it going but got a backfire. I checked the distributor and the rotor it’s set at position 1(plug 1) I can’t see the timing marks on the balancer so I’m not sure if I’m out at 180 degrees . Any help would be appreciated
#7
CF Monarch
Just changed the battery . All new grounds btw that’s what was causing the the no crank all grounds corroded at the block. Now I have just a no start. I get a huff at the carb sprayed some starting fluid to get it going but got a backfire. I checked the distributor and the rotor it’s set at position 1(plug 1) I can’t see the timing marks on the balancer so I’m not sure if I’m out at 180 degrees . Any help would be appreciated
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#8
#9
CF Monarch
Old fashion way, if you don't have help, pull the plugs, insert a tissue into #1 cylinder, spot crank till the tissue pops out, that should get you close to tdc, then follow the timing order from the cylinders to distributor.
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