Help, ready to pull my hair out
June 6th, 2020, 1:57 PM
#11
CF Monarch
I hooked up the fuel pressure gauge and drove it around the block. Pressure was always between 53 and 60. It is getting worse, I barely made it back up the hill to the house. After each drive I put my scanner on it to see if any codes are stored. This time it gave me P0101 which is MAF sensor error, this is the first time it has given this code. I did a test of the MAF, with the switch on it was receiving 12.8 volts, at idle it was sending out about 4.2 volts to the computer, when revved up it dropped to 3.8 and went down as low as 3. My next guess is bad MAF sensor? Before all this, I have never gotten valve train rattle. this little truck always seemed ready to pull the paint off when you hit the gas. From a stop it would boil the tires on dry pavement.
June 6th, 2020, 1:58 PM
#12
CF Monarch
I hooked up the fuel pressure gauge and drove it around the block. Pressure was always between 53 and 60. It is getting worse, I barely made it back up the hill to the house. After each drive I put my scanner on it to see if any codes are stored. This time it gave me P0101 which is MAF sensor error, this is the first time it has given this code. I did a test of the MAF, with the switch on it was receiving 12.8 volts, at idle it was sending out about 4.2 volts to the computer, when revved up it dropped to 3.8 and went down as low as 3. My next guess is bad MAF sensor? Before all this, I have never gotten valve train rattle. this little truck always seemed ready to pull the paint off when you hit the gas. From a stop it would boil the tires on dry pavement.
June 6th, 2020, 2:38 PM
#13
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June 6th, 2020, 2:56 PM
#14
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June 6th, 2020, 3:00 PM
#15
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with what you've thrown $$ at, trying to resolve, plus the DIY time n effort u've invested (FAR more than I would have done), time to bite the bullet, go to a well qualified/reputation'd Cert'd Chevy shop that has the 15grand diagnostic tools...or, keep closing yer eyes, thrown more $$ at 'er and pray u get lucky...or...cut yer losses and buy a Dakota..am really feelin yer pain
June 7th, 2020, 6:59 PM
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June 7th, 2020, 7:03 PM
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I am stubborn I guess, but with each item I could logically see that "it would be the cure". This week I am planning on going back over every part, screw and bolt that I have touched, then will give up and find a shop, or sell the thing.
June 25th, 2020, 3:41 PM
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Update, I replaced the Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor and there is NO change. I have just about convinced myself that the new spider injector unit I got was defective, or refurbished and passed off as new. At idle there seems to be sufficient exhaust pressure in that I can not physically hold a folded rag over the tailpipe without it blowing my hand away. I checked again around the intake and intake plenum for leaks. Early on, I had checked the output from the alternator at idle to make sure it was supplying sufficient voltage. I recently removed it and had it tested four times at two different places to make sure it was supplying voltage at higher speeds. It checked out fine. I talked with a shop yesterday about them doing a full diagnostic on it, that seems to be my only choice at this point. They get $105 but I now have the issue of getting it there, either drive slowly, hope it makes it and **** off everybody behind me, or have it towed.