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2007 Silverado: disconnected battery, now won't crank
November 14th, 2019, 1:20 PM
#52
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OK, I have a 2007 Silverado. I removed the negative battery terminal to replace the accelerator assy. The truck wouldn't start after that. I'd put the key in, turn it to run and just a dim engine lite would be on. Then the truck would go through gyrations, assessing whether the coded key was correct (I assume) and then the other warning lites would come on, and then sequence out, except the check engine lite and the ABS lite.
Also noted, the dome lites no longer worked. The radio, heater blower, everything else appeared OK. The starter would not turn over.
I tried every single suggestion on here, to no avail. Here was the fix...
I turned the truck to run, I had the headlites in the auto position, as I always do, and I let the truck go through its sequence, until the instrument warning lites came on and went back out (except the 2 aforementioned lites)
I clicked the dimmer switch to high-beams. A relay clicked inside the engine compartment, the dome lites went on, and then the truck started normally.
I've worked aircraft electronics my whole life, tho not auto. My point being, I can say with complete confidence that this fixed my problem. If it was a glitch in my truck's system I couldn't say. Is it part of a sequence that must be met? Who knows? But try it, and get back to us here if it works for you.
Also noted, the dome lites no longer worked. The radio, heater blower, everything else appeared OK. The starter would not turn over.
I tried every single suggestion on here, to no avail. Here was the fix...
I turned the truck to run, I had the headlites in the auto position, as I always do, and I let the truck go through its sequence, until the instrument warning lites came on and went back out (except the 2 aforementioned lites)
I clicked the dimmer switch to high-beams. A relay clicked inside the engine compartment, the dome lites went on, and then the truck started normally.
I've worked aircraft electronics my whole life, tho not auto. My point being, I can say with complete confidence that this fixed my problem. If it was a glitch in my truck's system I couldn't say. Is it part of a sequence that must be met? Who knows? But try it, and get back to us here if it works for you.
March 29th, 2020, 4:24 PM
#53
Engine jus turns over..
I noticed there is a body 12 way brn fuse missing from my 2007 chevy classic silverado..is it suppose to be there??
March 29th, 2020, 4:32 PM
#54
what is a 12 way fuse?
Does the lid of the fuse box have a legend?
Does the lid of the fuse box have a legend?
April 4th, 2020, 10:56 PM
#55
CF Veteran
I’m not responding to any particular problem here - it’s an informational post only regarding specific problems that GM experienced around this time (meaning 2007 when the body switch took place) that led to many of the problems described in this thread so that hopefully future readers will have some direction in their diagnosis.
The issues described below are wiring related - wiring problems are oftentimes mistaken for components being at fault. Keep in mind that ANY component - module, sensor, solenoid, etc - has to have sufficient power and ground feeds (as well as input/output signals) to operate correctly.
Remember that diagnostic codes aren’t a dead indicator of a failed component - they’re more like clues in a scavenger hunt. They give you a direction to look but they don’t tell you exactly what the problem is.
1) Fretting corrosion in several connectors. For those that don’t know, fretting is a type of corrosion that forms when the male and female terminals do not fit tightly together. As a result, vibrations and thermal cycling cause repeated arcing as the terminals make and break contact which eventually forms a soot-like coating that prevents adequate electrical contact. This can lead to intermittent problems such as no start, door locks clicking on and off, erratic instrument cluster operation, and the list goes on.
Fretting is easy to identify by simply unplugging the connectors and plugging them back in. This scrapes the corrosion off the terminals and allows for adequate contact again and the related problems are resolved until it forms again. The best repair is to replace the connectors, but it can often be prevented by cleaning the terminals and applying a thin layer of dielectric grease.
2) Wiring harness chafing/rubbing/stretching. Primarily an issue in the engine bay and chassis but could also happen in the cab. There were many spots where wiring had rubbed through or had broken internally but the insulation remained in tact.
3) Security re-learn procedures. This isn’t so much a problem area but more of a an easy how-to IF you’re experiencing key problems.
GM’s procedure for re-learning keys has remained about the same for years, dating back to the pass-lock days. Follow this to re-learn keys if they’re not working to start the car - using a charger is recommended:
1) Try to start the car, then leave the key in the on/run position for approximately 10 minutes until the security indicator goes out.
2) Turn the key off for 10 seconds, then repeat the process 2 more times. This should be adequate to learn the keys - if not, there’s probably another issue preventing the learn process from completing.
The issues described below are wiring related - wiring problems are oftentimes mistaken for components being at fault. Keep in mind that ANY component - module, sensor, solenoid, etc - has to have sufficient power and ground feeds (as well as input/output signals) to operate correctly.
Remember that diagnostic codes aren’t a dead indicator of a failed component - they’re more like clues in a scavenger hunt. They give you a direction to look but they don’t tell you exactly what the problem is.
1) Fretting corrosion in several connectors. For those that don’t know, fretting is a type of corrosion that forms when the male and female terminals do not fit tightly together. As a result, vibrations and thermal cycling cause repeated arcing as the terminals make and break contact which eventually forms a soot-like coating that prevents adequate electrical contact. This can lead to intermittent problems such as no start, door locks clicking on and off, erratic instrument cluster operation, and the list goes on.
Fretting is easy to identify by simply unplugging the connectors and plugging them back in. This scrapes the corrosion off the terminals and allows for adequate contact again and the related problems are resolved until it forms again. The best repair is to replace the connectors, but it can often be prevented by cleaning the terminals and applying a thin layer of dielectric grease.
2) Wiring harness chafing/rubbing/stretching. Primarily an issue in the engine bay and chassis but could also happen in the cab. There were many spots where wiring had rubbed through or had broken internally but the insulation remained in tact.
3) Security re-learn procedures. This isn’t so much a problem area but more of a an easy how-to IF you’re experiencing key problems.
GM’s procedure for re-learning keys has remained about the same for years, dating back to the pass-lock days. Follow this to re-learn keys if they’re not working to start the car - using a charger is recommended:
1) Try to start the car, then leave the key in the on/run position for approximately 10 minutes until the security indicator goes out.
2) Turn the key off for 10 seconds, then repeat the process 2 more times. This should be adequate to learn the keys - if not, there’s probably another issue preventing the learn process from completing.
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mountainmanjoe (April 5th, 2020)
April 10th, 2020, 9:49 PM
#57
Someone please help us. My truck is doing the same thing. I did not disconnect the battery, but was listening to the radio for about 15-20 minutes, tried to start it and no crank. ac blower, radio, one speed on wipers, low beam lights, message displays service 4 wheel drive and service airbag when key is on. Door locks, windows, dome lights and door open chime does not work and of course does not crank. Have checked all fuses and relays and all is fine. Mechanic says it is the BCM, but I do not know. Before shelling out the money for one I want to make sure it has failed and why it failed.
it's a blown #2 fuse in engine compartment fuse box. Note: there is only one #2 among all so it should be easy to find.
May 20th, 2020, 1:19 AM
#58
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August 13th, 2020, 9:51 AM
#59
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When the key is turned to the start position, an electrical signal is sent through the microchipped key (if applicable). The signal is then sent to the body ride control module or the computer (depending on the year, make and model of the car). The signal must then go through the burglar alarm, then through neutral safety switch, (if the car is a manual, through the clutch switch) to the solenoid, which pushes the bendix out, engaging the starter gear with the flywheel or flex plate and turning the gear. The starter gear turns the flywheel or flex plate, which in turn turns the engine over.
Potential Problems
If the microchipped key does not give the proper signal, the car will not start. If there is a problem with the neutral safety switch (this switch does not allow the car to start unless it is in neutral or park), it will not allow the power to finish the circuit, and you have a no-start situation. If the burglar alarm is malfunctioning, or if the car was stolen without a key (hot wired), the power will not complete the circuit through to the starter and the car will not start.
I don't see why you'd need a new one. No real programing is needed for them.
Potential Problems
If the microchipped key does not give the proper signal, the car will not start. If there is a problem with the neutral safety switch (this switch does not allow the car to start unless it is in neutral or park), it will not allow the power to finish the circuit, and you have a no-start situation. If the burglar alarm is malfunctioning, or if the car was stolen without a key (hot wired), the power will not complete the circuit through to the starter and the car will not start.
I don't see why you'd need a new one. No real programing is needed for them.
February 8th, 2021, 2:12 PM
#60
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Found problem
I don’t know if this may be your case but mine was one of the ground bolts were loose and that ground just so happened to control most of the modules and sensors including my ecu and bcm.