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1500 Silverado Towing - Rear end modification
#1
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I have a 2005 Silverado 1500 4x4 Crew Cab that has a 3.41 rear end and only 28,000 miles. - I understand it is currently capable of towing a max of #7000 lbs. I was wondering how difficult it would be and what a resaonable cost would be to change the rear end to 4.10 and pull a bigger trailer? I would probably have to go to thru dealer to protect the warranty I have on this vehicle.
Other than lower mpg, are there any reasons why this would be a bad idea? I was thinking this would be cheaper than buying another vehicle. Thanks
Other than lower mpg, are there any reasons why this would be a bad idea? I was thinking this would be cheaper than buying another vehicle. Thanks
#2
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: northern california
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I have a 2005 Silverado 1500 4x4 Crew Cab that has a 3.41 rear end and only 28,000 miles. - I understand it is currently capable of towing a max of #7000 lbs. I was wondering how difficult it would be and what a resaonable cost would be to change the rear end to 4.10 and pull a bigger trailer? I would probably have to go to thru dealer to protect the warranty I have on this vehicle.
Other than lower mpg, are there any reasons why this would be a bad idea? I was thinking this would be cheaper than buying another vehicle. Thanks
Other than lower mpg, are there any reasons why this would be a bad idea? I was thinking this would be cheaper than buying another vehicle. Thanks
if you were to change your gears you have to do both front and rears to match....very expensive to have someone install 4.10's in your truck...if you have never done a gear setup i would suggest you have a shop do it..
that will still not allow you to tow any heavier weight though!...
it's still alot cheaper then going to chevy and buying a new diesel that will tow a house....
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#3
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I did the reverse, since I don't pull a lot of weight, I went to 342s for the gas mileage and lower engine RPMs on the open highway. My main concern with the 410s at highway speeds was the RPMs were in the 2800 to 3300 RPM range. I was worried it would burn up the engine after awhile. It was also much noisier than it is now, at 1800 to 2300 RPM at the same highway speeds.
New gears, with new bearings, front and back, will run you @2000$.
You will need to have the CPM reprogrammed so it knows you've got the gear change, it will then compensate to adjust the speedometer and reset your ABS monitoring signal.
Otherwise you'll have the wrong speed on your dash, and ABS warning lights. Be sure the shop agrees to do this.
New gears, with new bearings, front and back, will run you @2000$.
You will need to have the CPM reprogrammed so it knows you've got the gear change, it will then compensate to adjust the speedometer and reset your ABS monitoring signal.
Otherwise you'll have the wrong speed on your dash, and ABS warning lights. Be sure the shop agrees to do this.
Last edited by therewolf; September 13th, 2009 at 5:23 PM.
#4
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myotherchevyisablazer-
A 4.10 ratio rear end is listed in the owners manual as an option with the 5.3 engine and is rated at #8400 lbs for this vehicle. Other than the tow package, which this truck has, is there something else that would need to be done to increase the towing capability? I thought the lower rear end ratio was the missing link.
The extra #1400 lbs seems like it would greatly expand the choices regarding the size and quality of travel trailers I could consider.
Also, rivereye, the $2000 cost you mentioned - was that for a DIY project - or dealer installed? I wouldn't attempt to change this myself.
I think I could justify up to $3000 to have it done right. That wouldn't seem like much when I compare it with the cost to buy a different truck.
Thanks for your comments.
A 4.10 ratio rear end is listed in the owners manual as an option with the 5.3 engine and is rated at #8400 lbs for this vehicle. Other than the tow package, which this truck has, is there something else that would need to be done to increase the towing capability? I thought the lower rear end ratio was the missing link.
The extra #1400 lbs seems like it would greatly expand the choices regarding the size and quality of travel trailers I could consider.
Also, rivereye, the $2000 cost you mentioned - was that for a DIY project - or dealer installed? I wouldn't attempt to change this myself.
I think I could justify up to $3000 to have it done right. That wouldn't seem like much when I compare it with the cost to buy a different truck.
Thanks for your comments.
#6
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I'm sorry I didn't specify on the price range. I took this to the best 4X4 truck shop in the area. So that's @2000$ out the door, done by a competent shop, with all new parts.
I couldn't venture to say what it would cost to DIY, but many others here are much more knowledgeable about differentials.
The bright side of 410s is gobs of low-end power. While you can never satisfy a person for whom enough is too little, IMO the 410s, and perhaps a CAI are a great start toward having the towing power you require. As long as you can deal with the @11MPG, and the higher revs on the highway.
I couldn't venture to say what it would cost to DIY, but many others here are much more knowledgeable about differentials.
The bright side of 410s is gobs of low-end power. While you can never satisfy a person for whom enough is too little, IMO the 410s, and perhaps a CAI are a great start toward having the towing power you require. As long as you can deal with the @11MPG, and the higher revs on the highway.
#7
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Well, I've seen quite a few travel trailers I like that weigh 6600 lbs plus that would top out over my #7000 limit if I added very much in the way of cargo - either equipment or passengers.
Since I have a tendency to keep vehicles a long time, I don't want to prematurely cause my truck to break down because I overloaded it.
BTW- My Brother in Law has a factory installed 4.10 in his 2005 Silverado 5.3 that easily pulls his 30 foot fifth wheel that weighs 7300 lbs dry. He's been getting about 12 MPG.
Thanks
Since I have a tendency to keep vehicles a long time, I don't want to prematurely cause my truck to break down because I overloaded it.
BTW- My Brother in Law has a factory installed 4.10 in his 2005 Silverado 5.3 that easily pulls his 30 foot fifth wheel that weighs 7300 lbs dry. He's been getting about 12 MPG.
Thanks
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#8
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Chuck,
I once owned a truck that did not have enough power to pull my travel trailer,
Believe me its not much fun driving when you are watching your temp gauge more than the fuel gauge.
When pulling a travel trailer up a long steep hill, there is no substitute for hp and torque.
If your truck has the tow package, then get the differentials changed!!!
You want a tow vehicle rated for about 20% overage in tow capacity, based on the tow weight of your load.
However, remember in addition to the trailer, mama is going to load half the house in the trailer and bed of your truck, its a given.
Good luck and stay safe.
be sure trailer has trailer brakes and equalizer hitch.
I once owned a truck that did not have enough power to pull my travel trailer,
Believe me its not much fun driving when you are watching your temp gauge more than the fuel gauge.
When pulling a travel trailer up a long steep hill, there is no substitute for hp and torque.
If your truck has the tow package, then get the differentials changed!!!
You want a tow vehicle rated for about 20% overage in tow capacity, based on the tow weight of your load.
However, remember in addition to the trailer, mama is going to load half the house in the trailer and bed of your truck, its a given.
Good luck and stay safe.
be sure trailer has trailer brakes and equalizer hitch.
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