danmoore

nephews truck just died..no spark..here's what i know, and what i've done this far: turn the key on, can hear the fuel pump run for 2 seconds.fuel is getting to the rail,as i have push the little valve on the rail ans gas sprays out.i pulled the coil and ignition control module off and took to orielly's for testing..had them test the module 2 times...passed both times.
coil is showing the same reading as the new one they pulled off the shelf.
so, i am convinced the coil/ignition module are fine.
crank sensor: went online,here, and found a post that explained how to test it..three different tests. one showed it was getting power..passed..twon showed 'sending pulse'to computer..passed, three showed a 5 volt reading as the engine was cranking over...passed..
so, i am assuming the crank sensor is ok.
i crawled under the truck,with key on, and unplugged the crank sensor,and could hear the fuel pump run again for a few seconds...i pulled the distribuutor cap and verified that the distributor was turning...it was..
i read that even if the cam sensor is bad.the truck wouold still run, just not run correctly...but i have no spark!!!...
my next "guess" will be the coil pickup in the distributor, unless one of you guys can give me an idea of where else to look...
what do you think guys??? whats next?

MDTAHOE

If you have a crank sensor there is no pick coil in the distributor like in the old days (tbi motor). The dis is the cam sensor and a spark distributor thats it. It has no control on spark timing. How did you test for spark. At the plug? At the wire? at the cap? At the coil? Do you have a 12v test light? Do you have power on one side of the coil? And a negative trigger at the other?

kevinkpk

As stated, you will need a test pick. Looks like an ice pick with a ground clip to see if you have spark AT THE PLUG. That is a start to find if you have an ignition issue, then go from there with timming.

danmoore

there is no sprk coming out of the coil..after turning the engine over with the coil wire laying against metal, i actually grabbed the wire with engine cranking....nothing

danmoore

tested for spark mutiple ways..first at the plug..nothing..then at the coil..still nothing..pulled the coil and used an ohm meter to check it..it read identical to the new one at the auto parts store....meaning, the three pin connector, i used a multimeter, on pin one and pin three..got .5...pin one and pin two, got.4....same as the new coil..didnt test the coil with it mounted and plugged in...should i do that too?

danmoore

""do you have power on one side of the coil? And a negative trigger at the other?"".......i dont know how to check this...please educate me

shamrock246

For me it was the crank sensor twice, first one took out my flex plate and starter and the second one left me in my drive way luckly my boat has the same engine took it off that and it fired right up get the AC/delco one if you can the autozone one left me in my drive way after six months,i've also had coils that test fine by the book but would not produce a spark

MDTAHOE

Do you have a 12v test light?

danmoore

12volt test light...yes i do.
Shamrock: considering the coils only costs about 35 bucks, i will replace it and see if i get the same result as you did...will keep you posted

danmoore

You nailed it shamrock.....coil...i should have went with my first evaluation,which was coil....especially after tesing the other components...second guessing myself....but you guys defenently helped..thanks a bunch...the nephew is grateful too