98 K1500 Silverado crank-no fire
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98 K1500 Silverado crank-no fire
My truck drove fine and I stopped to pick up daughter from school. I came out after minutes and turned key, which is usually a quick start up, but cranked like it was out of gas. I was low, as I was debating on getting gas before or after picking her up....but anyway I checked fuel pump (OK), fuel lines (OK), fuel pressure (OK), so I went onto electrical. I took off #1 plug wire and stuck test light into it, had my kid crank it over a few times...nothing. I tested the power coming into coil, it was fine, so I figured (stupid thing to think and react to first thought) but I went and got new coil, Installed, cranked, nothing! I figured if there is gas, there has to be an electrical issue, so I checked my ignition module and it appeared to be OK with power, so I went underneath and pulled the Crankshaft position sensor. It was full of oil when I pulled sensor wires off. Took it off, but was nice and clean looking....at least not to have the sensor switch that oily. So my problem is this: since I have so few miles on engine and my only codes that popped on the diagnosis were P0400 and P0300, which are EVAP codes, I cleared them, and they never came back after plugging the CPS back in.
Should I replace the ignition module or the CPS? I never changed the coil when I did the build, but did put new distributor cap, rotor, wires, and am on my 3rd set of plugs and 3rd oil change with Mobile 1 synthetic. The CPS was new on motor, so the coil and module has over 240K miles on them. Would I be safe in spending the $100 bucks on new ignition module or go ahead and do both, since after all those two would complete the process of elimination. If you cant get fire, you cant get started. I was lucky that when I swapped my engine core and tranny, the guy gave me a ECU and I went to the dealership and had my friend upgrade both OBDII ECU's. I tried switching them, so the only culprits I can come up with are the ignition module or CPS hats not giving it spark. What would just fail, no signal that something was going bad, but all o a sudden just fail...a CPS or ignition module sensor?
Any thoughts?
Should I replace the ignition module or the CPS? I never changed the coil when I did the build, but did put new distributor cap, rotor, wires, and am on my 3rd set of plugs and 3rd oil change with Mobile 1 synthetic. The CPS was new on motor, so the coil and module has over 240K miles on them. Would I be safe in spending the $100 bucks on new ignition module or go ahead and do both, since after all those two would complete the process of elimination. If you cant get fire, you cant get started. I was lucky that when I swapped my engine core and tranny, the guy gave me a ECU and I went to the dealership and had my friend upgrade both OBDII ECU's. I tried switching them, so the only culprits I can come up with are the ignition module or CPS hats not giving it spark. What would just fail, no signal that something was going bad, but all o a sudden just fail...a CPS or ignition module sensor?
Any thoughts?
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I am assuming that you are talking about a fuel shunt with my security? I did notice when I was reading my diagnostic tool that I never noticed the "security" light, or even when I turned key on to check my wires. If this is the issue, how to I cycle it, or bypass? I am also amazed that after replacing the coil and ignition module, Im getting a P1334 code - crankshaft position switch! I had just removed and inspected it and noticed the female connector with fluid in it and the mail was covered in an oil based grime, like it was a catch for some type of oil leak or from me overflowing my powers steering fluid. I can see where it probably shorted, and all the time I was checking codes, I NEVER got the P1334 code. If you have an idea of how to verify the security is keeping from starting, let me know because its telling me I have a bad CPS!
#4
I am assuming that you are talking about a fuel shunt with my security? I did notice when I was reading my diagnostic tool that I never noticed the "security" light, or even when I turned key on to check my wires. If this is the issue, how to I cycle it, or bypass? I am also amazed that after replacing the coil and ignition module, Im getting a P1334 code - crankshaft position switch! I had just removed and inspected it and noticed the female connector with fluid in it and the mail was covered in an oil based grime, like it was a catch for some type of oil leak or from me overflowing my powers steering fluid. I can see where it probably shorted, and all the time I was checking codes, I NEVER got the P1334 code. If you have an idea of how to verify the security is keeping from starting, let me know because its telling me I have a bad CPS!
Disregard the security light question for the time being was hazarding a guess based on personal experience and what your first post said.
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