AC problems, nothing like I have found on other threads
#1
AC problems, nothing like I have found on other threads
2004 Silverado.
First off I have to smack the blower motor area to get it to come on, like it's stuck, I replaced the motor resistor a couple of months ago and it worked fine for a while but now sometimes it won't come on until I smack it, all speeds work fine after that. I figure that this is just a motor replacement.
Second problem, which has been fine with me all summer, is that the no matter where I set the controls the ac kicks on. The only time it isn't is when I turn the recirculation off. Example, I can have recirc on, ac button off and the ac always kicks on, if I turn recirculation off it just changes fan speed.
On top of that I have no heat at all no matter what the anything is set on, not even the slighted bit of heat.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
First off I have to smack the blower motor area to get it to come on, like it's stuck, I replaced the motor resistor a couple of months ago and it worked fine for a while but now sometimes it won't come on until I smack it, all speeds work fine after that. I figure that this is just a motor replacement.
Second problem, which has been fine with me all summer, is that the no matter where I set the controls the ac kicks on. The only time it isn't is when I turn the recirculation off. Example, I can have recirc on, ac button off and the ac always kicks on, if I turn recirculation off it just changes fan speed.
On top of that I have no heat at all no matter what the anything is set on, not even the slighted bit of heat.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Last edited by sharkchum; October 24th, 2012 at 2:47 PM.
#3
agree with blower motor.
fyi; chevy has a campaign that involves replacing the wiring harness connector to the blower motor and also replacing the blower motor resistor. Hopefully yours has been done or you will continue to have resistor problems.
fyi; chevy has a campaign that involves replacing the wiring harness connector to the blower motor and also replacing the blower motor resistor. Hopefully yours has been done or you will continue to have resistor problems.
#4
Thanks guys but I'm ignorant when it comes to this.
The control head: thats the panel that controls Fan speed, temp and what vent air comes out of?
That with a new motor and possibly a harness could fix my heat problem? How do I know it would not be the actuator?
The control head: thats the panel that controls Fan speed, temp and what vent air comes out of?
That with a new motor and possibly a harness could fix my heat problem? How do I know it would not be the actuator?
Last edited by sharkchum; October 28th, 2012 at 11:18 AM.
#5
You have more than one issue.
the blower motor...if you hit an electrical motor and it starts working, usually the brushes are worn.
for the no heat problem; check that the blend door is moving (watch the actuator) when the temp control is changed from full cold to full hot.
If the blend door is moving, check for low coolant level. measure the temp of the heater core inlet and outlet hoses when the engine is at temp. the outlet should be approx 10 degrees colder than the inlet.
the blower motor...if you hit an electrical motor and it starts working, usually the brushes are worn.
for the no heat problem; check that the blend door is moving (watch the actuator) when the temp control is changed from full cold to full hot.
If the blend door is moving, check for low coolant level. measure the temp of the heater core inlet and outlet hoses when the engine is at temp. the outlet should be approx 10 degrees colder than the inlet.
#6
You have more than one issue.
the blower motor...if you hit an electrical motor and it starts working, usually the brushes are worn.
for the no heat problem; check that the blend door is moving (watch the actuator) when the temp control is changed from full cold to full hot.
If the blend door is moving, check for low coolant level. measure the temp of the heater core inlet and outlet hoses when the engine is at temp. the outlet should be approx 10 degrees colder than the inlet.
the blower motor...if you hit an electrical motor and it starts working, usually the brushes are worn.
for the no heat problem; check that the blend door is moving (watch the actuator) when the temp control is changed from full cold to full hot.
If the blend door is moving, check for low coolant level. measure the temp of the heater core inlet and outlet hoses when the engine is at temp. the outlet should be approx 10 degrees colder than the inlet.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions, please throw anymore to me if something comes to mind.
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