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Detailed Install of Viper 5901 Remote Start/Alarm on 09 Silverado
December 31st, 2009, 4:43 PM
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Detailed Install of Viper 5901 Remote Start/Alarm on 09 Silverado
Just installed the new VIPER 5901 with Remote Start on 2009 Chevrolet Silverado LT 5.3L V8 automatic and thought I would share with everyone my install. Let me start by saying this is really not a bad install. Anyone that can see wire colors, solder wire and use a voltage tester can do it. This is actually my second install of this alarm. I had installed it on my 08 Acura TL, search the internet and there is a install sheet like this one for it too.
Viper 5901 is one of Directed Electronics Alarms with remote start. It has a digital readout remote that works up to a mile away per the paperwork. I’m not sure exactly how far but I can start my truck from at least a half mile away. Lock and Unlock from even further. And the 2 way remote gets feedback that your command worked.
The DLPK is the only other module you need for this system. The DLPK interfaces with the trucks onboard computer to know the status of door/hood triggers, lock/unlock doors and remote starting of the vehicle.
Costs:
Viper 5901 200.00 I paid 300 back then but looks like about 200 now.
DLPK 65.00 www.caraudio-caralarms.com (autopreservers)
Few Snap connectors, crimp connectors and small wire from auto parts store 25 bucks.
Local install place wanted 756$ to do this install. That’s 466 bucks in LABOR!!! I do have 6 hours of install time in this and some other time reading manuals. If I had this guide I’m writing for you I could have done in 3 hours! Do it yourself people! I seriously only hooked to EIGHT existing wires in this truck.
Let start by saying you want to get the DLPK from a place like www.caraudio-caralarms.com because they have will flash it up the latest firmware before they send it. Also they provide a wiring location/color guide for your vehicle and they are great for technical support. Thanks again DOUG!
Now for the Install:
Charge the digital remote. (Its rechargeable, lasts close to a month between charges. You will notice a decline in distance when battery is low but still works from a LONG way away at its worst moment)
Remove all harnesses from VIPER and DLPK.
Before you get to the truck lets do some pre-work that will save you install time with your truck apart:
Locate the RS IN VIPER harness (has 5 smaller wires in it… black/white, violet/white, brown, gray, blue/white)
Locate the H1 VIPER harness (has 12 smaller wires in it)
Locate the H3 VIPER harness (this is the big wires, 9 of them)
Time Saver #1:
On H3 you will see a solid red wire. This is the main wire that will get power from your truck. Leave it long but after the fuse we are going to solder on two other wires (between fuse and end of wire). After the fuse a few inches take your strippers and squeeze wire like your going to strip it but just squeeze. Do it once more about an inch away. Now take a razor blade and trim off that insulation without cutting into wire. Go up a couple inches and do this once more.
Solder on the Red/Black in the H3 harness.
Solder on the Red in the H1 harness.
Time Saver #2:
Take the black wire from H1 and strip off a piece of insulation like above about 4-5 inches from harness.
Solder on the black/white wire from the RS IN harness.
REMOVING PANELS:
Remove Drivers Side Dash Fuse panel. (this is to the left of farthest left a/c vent) It just pops off starting with the bottom.
Remove plastic panel that is above pedals. It has two Phillips head screws and one bolt that must be removed from the parking break release. Just pull on parking break release and you will see bolt. Its long winded. Once removed just shake the lever around and it will just fall out. Once the release is disconnected from panel the panel pops out. Start with the bottom then work your way up. First time these might be a little stubborn but it will come eventually.
Removing Steering Column covers can seem a bit tricky. Ok I learned a lesson here… wish I had this install guide then. First thing you want to do is remove the steering tilt lever. Its VERY stubborn. Get you a couple paper towels and wrap them around it so you don’t scratch it up. Then put some channellocks on it and pull straight toward drivers door. It will come I promise. You must remove this.
Now once the lever is removed you can work on the column covers. Its just two pieces. There are no screws, they only interlock into each other. You will need to find the line that runs horizontal where the two covers meet and push on one side of line. At the same time reach over the cover and pull on the other. They will start to unlock from each other.
Go ahead and disconnect the two wiring harness at ignition. One is a small 5 pin connector that connects to transponder. The other is a 6 pin connector on bottom of ignition. To remove it you have to take a screwdriver and pry back red snap from back and then remove connector like normal. Refer to wiring instructions below for colors if you are unsure which one is the right one.
Important: Do all install with the column adjusted all the way up so the wires don’t install too short.
INSTALLING ALARM: (DLPK will be later)
I installed my siren onto a bolt in the engine compartment where it appears to be a spot for a second battery to go. (drivers side front of engine compartment) Just removed a bolt and bolted it back on. Loosened another bolt and grounded the black wire for the siren. The red wire you will need to solder on another piece of wire and get it into the cab of the truck. This took some time from me. I normally just find the big rubber connector in the firewall (drivers side of firewall in engine compartment) and just shove my clothes hanger through it, tying on my wire and pulling it through. I could not get a wire in that one on this truck. However there is a smaller rubber grommet above and to the left of the big one. I was able to do this there.
Next we start hooking up wires to the 5901 harnesses. BE SURE when you route wiring and connect that you do so in a way that when your done the Viper 5901 and DLPK can slip up in the cubby hole behind where the plastic panel above pedals is.
Due to the DLPK not many wires are needed on the VIPER.
5901’s H1 harness: No Need in having any harness connected to VIPER right now
Connect the Black chassis ground to a ground. I just lugged it and used an existing bolt in that left drivers side fuse panel. Top bolt.
Solder the Brown Siren wire to the wire you pulled from engine compartment earlier.
You have already soldered the red wire to another wire and will hook up power later.
No more wires are used in this harness. Tape them up!
5901’s RS IN harness:
You have already soldered black/white so there is only one more wire to hook up.
Connect the brown wire to the blue/white wire in the harness connected to the brake. A pain to get to. There is a black a/c duct above brake that I popped out of place to give me some more room. I also just chose to use a snap on connector here due to no real room for soldering. If you haven’t seen a snap on connector ask an auto parts guy. It allows you to piggyback an existing wire without cutting it.
Hook brake harness back up.
No more wires are used in this harness… TAPE THEM UP!!!
5901’s H3 Harness:
You have already soldered the red/black to the red and the H1 red to the H3 red.
Solder the RED onto a 12 Volt constant source (always hot, doesn’t matter key position). I chose the drivers side fuse panel. Looking in panel I chose the harness that is furthest right. In this harness I chose the wire that is furthest right. A red/white wire. I unlatched harness and stripped back some insulation on this wire and soldered it right on. (of course tape all solder connections up!!!) Hook vehicle harness back up.
Now solder the Pink onto the pink in the 6 pin ignition connector (pin 2). I trimmed back some factory tape so I could do this farther up in the column. I actually used the crimp on connectors for the ignition connections but was bulky so I’m suggesting you solder.
Now solder on Orange to the brown in the 6 pin ignition connector (pin 3).
No more wires are used in this harness… TAPE THEM UP!!!
DLPK INSTALL:
Due to the VIPER being capable of 2 Way D2D communications most wires are not hooked up on the DLPK. They are just communicated on the D2D cable that you will hook up later.
Locate DLPK’s 14 pin harness.
Solder the yellow onto the pink/black in the 6 pin ignition connector (pin 5).
Locate the vehicles transponder 5 pin connector. Find the brown wire. (Documentation says Brown or Yellow. Mine was brown.) You will need to cut this wire.
On the end of the cut wire that is connected to transponder connector solder on the white/black of the 14 pin harness.
On the end of the cut wire that is going into the truck solder on the pink of the 14 pin harness.
No other wires are used in the 14 pin harness. TAPE THEM UP!!!
Locate the 4 pin DLPK harness that includes 4 wires. (brown, orange/green, orange/brown and light green)
Solder on the brown to the white in the 6 pin ignition connector (pin 6).
Solder on the light green to the green in the 5 pin transponder connector.
Re-connect the two vehicle harnesses at ignition
Tape up the other two wires in this harness!
CONNECTING HARNESSES!
Using Viper wiring guide hook up the following:
Neutral Safety Switch, with it on.
The Valet switch/antenna at the 4 pin antenna connector, 2 pin valet pin and 2 pin status LED connectors.
RS IN harness
H3 harness
H1 harness (alarm might go off… be ready to disarm.)
Plug in only the VIPER side of the D2D cable that came with your DLPK.
POWERING/PROGRAMMING DLPK:
While holding the programming button on DLPK plug in the D2D cable. The LED will illuminate to indicate you are in programming mode, release the button.
Connect the other two connectors (the 14 pin can easily be shoved in backwards… look closely)
Turn the ignition to the on position. Once the LED on the DLPK starts to flash rapidly turn the key to the OFF position. The LED will turn off indicating it is ready for use.
At this point JUST TRY ALARM OUT (NOT REMOTE START). Lock/unlock doors. Maybe set alarm and manually unlock doors to set it off.
Before we try starting car you must change some programming on the Viper 5901. This is done by pushing the valet switch/antenna’s button multiple times, listening for chirps and pushing lock/unlock on remote. Its tedious but listen an count chirps, it will tell you what your about to change.
Use the VIPER manual to figure out how to do this (reference page 39-52) and change the following:
Menu 3, item 1 to opt 2 (AUTOMATIC)
I also chose to change the following:
Menu 1, item 1 to opt 2 (if you want it to auto arm without locking doors)
Try to start the truck yourself! After that works try the remote start out by pushing the middle side button of remote. Should work great!
Test something… Remote start truck, unlock doors and climb in. Without putting key in ignition push on brake. Engine should die.
Once your satisfied tuck wiring into cubby hole, tywrap stuff up and put covers back on.
Just a tip… you see that the antenna is where your VIPER programming button is. I tywrapped it in a manner that I can reach under panels and access it if need be without removing panels again!
Congrats on your install!
I think I got everything. If you see I left something out or just have a question email me through the site.
-JC
Viper 5901 is one of Directed Electronics Alarms with remote start. It has a digital readout remote that works up to a mile away per the paperwork. I’m not sure exactly how far but I can start my truck from at least a half mile away. Lock and Unlock from even further. And the 2 way remote gets feedback that your command worked.
The DLPK is the only other module you need for this system. The DLPK interfaces with the trucks onboard computer to know the status of door/hood triggers, lock/unlock doors and remote starting of the vehicle.
Costs:
Viper 5901 200.00 I paid 300 back then but looks like about 200 now.
DLPK 65.00 www.caraudio-caralarms.com (autopreservers)
Few Snap connectors, crimp connectors and small wire from auto parts store 25 bucks.
Local install place wanted 756$ to do this install. That’s 466 bucks in LABOR!!! I do have 6 hours of install time in this and some other time reading manuals. If I had this guide I’m writing for you I could have done in 3 hours! Do it yourself people! I seriously only hooked to EIGHT existing wires in this truck.
Let start by saying you want to get the DLPK from a place like www.caraudio-caralarms.com because they have will flash it up the latest firmware before they send it. Also they provide a wiring location/color guide for your vehicle and they are great for technical support. Thanks again DOUG!
Now for the Install:
Charge the digital remote. (Its rechargeable, lasts close to a month between charges. You will notice a decline in distance when battery is low but still works from a LONG way away at its worst moment)
Remove all harnesses from VIPER and DLPK.
Before you get to the truck lets do some pre-work that will save you install time with your truck apart:
Locate the RS IN VIPER harness (has 5 smaller wires in it… black/white, violet/white, brown, gray, blue/white)
Locate the H1 VIPER harness (has 12 smaller wires in it)
Locate the H3 VIPER harness (this is the big wires, 9 of them)
Time Saver #1:
On H3 you will see a solid red wire. This is the main wire that will get power from your truck. Leave it long but after the fuse we are going to solder on two other wires (between fuse and end of wire). After the fuse a few inches take your strippers and squeeze wire like your going to strip it but just squeeze. Do it once more about an inch away. Now take a razor blade and trim off that insulation without cutting into wire. Go up a couple inches and do this once more.
Solder on the Red/Black in the H3 harness.
Solder on the Red in the H1 harness.
Time Saver #2:
Take the black wire from H1 and strip off a piece of insulation like above about 4-5 inches from harness.
Solder on the black/white wire from the RS IN harness.
REMOVING PANELS:
Remove Drivers Side Dash Fuse panel. (this is to the left of farthest left a/c vent) It just pops off starting with the bottom.
Remove plastic panel that is above pedals. It has two Phillips head screws and one bolt that must be removed from the parking break release. Just pull on parking break release and you will see bolt. Its long winded. Once removed just shake the lever around and it will just fall out. Once the release is disconnected from panel the panel pops out. Start with the bottom then work your way up. First time these might be a little stubborn but it will come eventually.
Removing Steering Column covers can seem a bit tricky. Ok I learned a lesson here… wish I had this install guide then. First thing you want to do is remove the steering tilt lever. Its VERY stubborn. Get you a couple paper towels and wrap them around it so you don’t scratch it up. Then put some channellocks on it and pull straight toward drivers door. It will come I promise. You must remove this.
Now once the lever is removed you can work on the column covers. Its just two pieces. There are no screws, they only interlock into each other. You will need to find the line that runs horizontal where the two covers meet and push on one side of line. At the same time reach over the cover and pull on the other. They will start to unlock from each other.
Go ahead and disconnect the two wiring harness at ignition. One is a small 5 pin connector that connects to transponder. The other is a 6 pin connector on bottom of ignition. To remove it you have to take a screwdriver and pry back red snap from back and then remove connector like normal. Refer to wiring instructions below for colors if you are unsure which one is the right one.
Important: Do all install with the column adjusted all the way up so the wires don’t install too short.
INSTALLING ALARM: (DLPK will be later)
I installed my siren onto a bolt in the engine compartment where it appears to be a spot for a second battery to go. (drivers side front of engine compartment) Just removed a bolt and bolted it back on. Loosened another bolt and grounded the black wire for the siren. The red wire you will need to solder on another piece of wire and get it into the cab of the truck. This took some time from me. I normally just find the big rubber connector in the firewall (drivers side of firewall in engine compartment) and just shove my clothes hanger through it, tying on my wire and pulling it through. I could not get a wire in that one on this truck. However there is a smaller rubber grommet above and to the left of the big one. I was able to do this there.
Next we start hooking up wires to the 5901 harnesses. BE SURE when you route wiring and connect that you do so in a way that when your done the Viper 5901 and DLPK can slip up in the cubby hole behind where the plastic panel above pedals is.
Due to the DLPK not many wires are needed on the VIPER.
5901’s H1 harness: No Need in having any harness connected to VIPER right now
Connect the Black chassis ground to a ground. I just lugged it and used an existing bolt in that left drivers side fuse panel. Top bolt.
Solder the Brown Siren wire to the wire you pulled from engine compartment earlier.
You have already soldered the red wire to another wire and will hook up power later.
No more wires are used in this harness. Tape them up!
5901’s RS IN harness:
You have already soldered black/white so there is only one more wire to hook up.
Connect the brown wire to the blue/white wire in the harness connected to the brake. A pain to get to. There is a black a/c duct above brake that I popped out of place to give me some more room. I also just chose to use a snap on connector here due to no real room for soldering. If you haven’t seen a snap on connector ask an auto parts guy. It allows you to piggyback an existing wire without cutting it.
Hook brake harness back up.
No more wires are used in this harness… TAPE THEM UP!!!
5901’s H3 Harness:
You have already soldered the red/black to the red and the H1 red to the H3 red.
Solder the RED onto a 12 Volt constant source (always hot, doesn’t matter key position). I chose the drivers side fuse panel. Looking in panel I chose the harness that is furthest right. In this harness I chose the wire that is furthest right. A red/white wire. I unlatched harness and stripped back some insulation on this wire and soldered it right on. (of course tape all solder connections up!!!) Hook vehicle harness back up.
Now solder the Pink onto the pink in the 6 pin ignition connector (pin 2). I trimmed back some factory tape so I could do this farther up in the column. I actually used the crimp on connectors for the ignition connections but was bulky so I’m suggesting you solder.
Now solder on Orange to the brown in the 6 pin ignition connector (pin 3).
No more wires are used in this harness… TAPE THEM UP!!!
DLPK INSTALL:
Due to the VIPER being capable of 2 Way D2D communications most wires are not hooked up on the DLPK. They are just communicated on the D2D cable that you will hook up later.
Locate DLPK’s 14 pin harness.
Solder the yellow onto the pink/black in the 6 pin ignition connector (pin 5).
Locate the vehicles transponder 5 pin connector. Find the brown wire. (Documentation says Brown or Yellow. Mine was brown.) You will need to cut this wire.
On the end of the cut wire that is connected to transponder connector solder on the white/black of the 14 pin harness.
On the end of the cut wire that is going into the truck solder on the pink of the 14 pin harness.
No other wires are used in the 14 pin harness. TAPE THEM UP!!!
Locate the 4 pin DLPK harness that includes 4 wires. (brown, orange/green, orange/brown and light green)
Solder on the brown to the white in the 6 pin ignition connector (pin 6).
Solder on the light green to the green in the 5 pin transponder connector.
Re-connect the two vehicle harnesses at ignition
Tape up the other two wires in this harness!
CONNECTING HARNESSES!
Using Viper wiring guide hook up the following:
Neutral Safety Switch, with it on.
The Valet switch/antenna at the 4 pin antenna connector, 2 pin valet pin and 2 pin status LED connectors.
RS IN harness
H3 harness
H1 harness (alarm might go off… be ready to disarm.)
Plug in only the VIPER side of the D2D cable that came with your DLPK.
POWERING/PROGRAMMING DLPK:
While holding the programming button on DLPK plug in the D2D cable. The LED will illuminate to indicate you are in programming mode, release the button.
Connect the other two connectors (the 14 pin can easily be shoved in backwards… look closely)
Turn the ignition to the on position. Once the LED on the DLPK starts to flash rapidly turn the key to the OFF position. The LED will turn off indicating it is ready for use.
At this point JUST TRY ALARM OUT (NOT REMOTE START). Lock/unlock doors. Maybe set alarm and manually unlock doors to set it off.
Before we try starting car you must change some programming on the Viper 5901. This is done by pushing the valet switch/antenna’s button multiple times, listening for chirps and pushing lock/unlock on remote. Its tedious but listen an count chirps, it will tell you what your about to change.
Use the VIPER manual to figure out how to do this (reference page 39-52) and change the following:
Menu 3, item 1 to opt 2 (AUTOMATIC)
I also chose to change the following:
Menu 1, item 1 to opt 2 (if you want it to auto arm without locking doors)
Try to start the truck yourself! After that works try the remote start out by pushing the middle side button of remote. Should work great!
Test something… Remote start truck, unlock doors and climb in. Without putting key in ignition push on brake. Engine should die.
Once your satisfied tuck wiring into cubby hole, tywrap stuff up and put covers back on.
Just a tip… you see that the antenna is where your VIPER programming button is. I tywrapped it in a manner that I can reach under panels and access it if need be without removing panels again!
Congrats on your install!
I think I got everything. If you see I left something out or just have a question email me through the site.
-JC
January 3rd, 2010, 2:09 AM
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dlpk install
Hey JC,
Congrats on your install!! I have a 2008 GMC sierra and I want to install a remote starter on with the dlpk. my tech notes say you do not hook up the start wire on from the remote starter? did you hook up yours? or does the dlpk do everything for you? Any feedback would be great! Peter.
Congrats on your install!! I have a 2008 GMC sierra and I want to install a remote starter on with the dlpk. my tech notes say you do not hook up the start wire on from the remote starter? did you hook up yours? or does the dlpk do everything for you? Any feedback would be great! Peter.
January 4th, 2010, 6:14 PM
#4
A warning to you guys wanting to install using this and other modules that do not use a trandponder chip.
Battery conusmption using this install method, usually is in the 30mA range. Meaning if your truck is not your daily driver, you could come out to a dead battery and possibly a no start after boosting.
It will work flawlessly if it is hooked up properly, and you don't let your vehicle sit for longer than 3 or 4 days at a time
Battery conusmption using this install method, usually is in the 30mA range. Meaning if your truck is not your daily driver, you could come out to a dead battery and possibly a no start after boosting.
It will work flawlessly if it is hooked up properly, and you don't let your vehicle sit for longer than 3 or 4 days at a time
January 6th, 2010, 10:18 AM
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Well I had this alarm in my 08 acura and went to philly. Left it at airport for 7 days. No problem there. And Im at hospital with my kid right now in my wifes Tahoe, been here for 4 days. Will start my truck when I get home this afternoon and let you know but I highly doubt there will be a problem.
January 6th, 2010, 5:00 PM
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UPDATE... Actually before I got home my mother in law had to move my truck since the house next to me was on fire.... Good thing it started!
So last time I started my truck was Sat around 4 pm. Then she started it at 1:30pm on Wedn. So thats 93.5 hours... under 4 days/nights by 2.5 hours and it started.
So guys... what he says must be true... there HAS to be a power draw but no way its as serious as he states. Like i said i know my acura set 7 days at the airport. And I went to denver for 8 days this year in the acura and no problems either.
So last time I started my truck was Sat around 4 pm. Then she started it at 1:30pm on Wedn. So thats 93.5 hours... under 4 days/nights by 2.5 hours and it started.
So guys... what he says must be true... there HAS to be a power draw but no way its as serious as he states. Like i said i know my acura set 7 days at the airport. And I went to denver for 8 days this year in the acura and no problems either.
January 6th, 2010, 7:24 PM
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I would take Shawn's warning seriously, he knows what he's talking about. In fact it just made me realize why my battery keeps going dead in my Tahoe, I don't have the same device installed but it is a remote start.
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January 7th, 2010, 1:17 PM
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I can't speak for these "systems" you guys have but this is a VIPER. And if you are really that worried about the battery being dead AFTER 8 DAYS AT LEAST you can activate SMART START.
The viper has the capability of automatically starting the car if the voltage reaches 10.5 volts. Runs till voltage is back and then stops.
You activate this by clicking F (on the keyfob) 3 times and then click the remote start button once.
Just saying people... buy the Viper... Im giving you real data not theory.
The viper has the capability of automatically starting the car if the voltage reaches 10.5 volts. Runs till voltage is back and then stops.
You activate this by clicking F (on the keyfob) 3 times and then click the remote start button once.
Just saying people... buy the Viper... Im giving you real data not theory.
January 11th, 2010, 5:57 PM
#9
What I was referring to had nothing to do with the VIPER, or the acura....it was the bypass module and the way your installed in into the truck.
There are 2 different ways of installing the by-pass module, with or without a transponder chip. I have installed a bunch without the transponder chip(the way you described) and 9 out of 10 came back with dead batteries, or no start caused by the by-pass module. Each and every one of the install I did with the transponder chip, have never come back
sorry for the confusion
There are 2 different ways of installing the by-pass module, with or without a transponder chip. I have installed a bunch without the transponder chip(the way you described) and 9 out of 10 came back with dead batteries, or no start caused by the by-pass module. Each and every one of the install I did with the transponder chip, have never come back
sorry for the confusion
January 27th, 2010, 8:26 AM
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I just had the Viper 5901 installed in my Silverado yesterday. I came out this morning and my truck barely started (battery seems almost dead). How can i go about explaining how to fix this problem to the shop that installed the alarm?