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I ran into something similar one time and it turned out to be a damaged metal piece that holds the throw out bearing and slides over the ball. One of those clips were damaged and it wasn't sliding over that ball properly. I never bought a pressure plate through the mail so don't know anything about any shipping 'pieces' they might use but it almost sounds like it has to be in the linkage somewhere between the pedal and pressure plate. I don't think that not having resurfaced your flywheel would do that unless it was a really ugly mess to begin with. In the days when I was doing them, you wanted about an inch of free play in the top of the pedal before it started to engage and then about the 4" throw which ultimately disengaged the transmission from the turning flywheel when the clutch was in.

So in what you're describing, if you had it in first gear with the clutch in and tried to start the vehicle, it would lurch forward because the clutch really isn't disengaging, correct?

OldschoolNewschool

I purchased the plate at advanced. I've already replaced the fork, which is the part that sits on the knuckle (ball) and holds the throwout bearing because I thought it might be that as well. When I push the pedal in it's smooth all the way through. I can feel where the "break point" is and it's the same place it always has. I've replaced every piece of the clutch it feels like a modern truck where it's just one pressure all the way through not tight in some spots loose in others.
Yes when I put it in first with the clutch pedal pushed in I get a small lurch and it stalls because the clutch will not disengage.

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What you describe almost tempts me to ask, are you sure your emergency brake isn't on or wheels chalked?

I'm assuming that you've double checked all part numbers against your vehicle - double check the clutch disk, pressure plate, throw out bearing for your 20xx, Chev K2500, w/5.7ci , etc etc etc. Might be worth going back and doing that if you haven't.

Was the vehicle running fine and rolling freely when you took it down to replace the clutch?

OldschoolNewschool

I haven't even gotten to a point where I'm trying to move yet. I can't get it in gear at all. And yes everything is correct partswise. I checked and matched everything new to everything old made sure it was all the same. Before I replaced the clutch it was fine then the clutch took a **** and I replaced it. All it was was a worn out clutch plate. Now I have no idea what the hell the problem is.

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wow... I'd try this site. Never hurts to donate a few bucks to pique interest by the guys who run the site. I've done it both ways...

Car Repair Questions Answered Free by Professional Mechanics Information

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w w w dot 2 car pros dot com

take away all spaces and replace 'dot' with a period

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One last thing... Years ago it was steel all the way. There was no hydraulic assist and from the pedal to the pressure plate, it was the series of steel rod all the way to the throw out bearing fork. About the time (as I recall) they started using hydraulic assist with many vehicles, they also began to use a 'cable' instead of the metal to metal all the way. You don't have a cable on your vehicle do you? If you had a cable I'd be wondering about the integrity of that cable (frayed & stretched, something out of adjustment related to the cable, etc).