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Left Rear Door Ajar
October 4th, 2017, 9:28 AM
#21
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I checked out the switch that is part of the door lock assembly and it seemed to be OK. The wiring to the body control module also was OK. I removed the body control module and resoldered the connector pins on the rear connector where the left rear door ajar signal comes in and also the pins on the larger connector pins on the end connectors. It no longer has the left rear door ajar signal on. This does require a pretty small soldering iron and some skill (maybe more than I have.) We'll have to see how long it lasts.
August 12th, 2019, 1:01 PM
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Remove the wire from the top plug behind the column cover going to door. Take a test light and find the one that makes the brome light come on. You must unplug and test at plug. Mine was a small blue with black stripe. You won't has the safety anymore but the alarm and dome goes off. Good luck
August 28th, 2020, 10:36 AM
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its a little button in the jam that sends a signal to your ecm telling which door is open and close or what not.....that button may seem to be functional as far as push in pop out but in realty that whole sensor/ button needs to be replaced....alot of cadillacs do it also send it to the dealership or look up how to install that item and remove it!
what is the button sensor called?
September 25th, 2021, 3:24 PM
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Right Rear Door Ajar
I have a 2003 Chevy Silverado 2500HD 4x4 with 116,000 miles. When I put the truck in gear the CID reads that the Left Rear Door Is Ajar. I cannot set the alarm, the interior lights stay on while I'm driving and the doors will not lock. This past weekend I took the door apart. When I unplugged the wires from the latch and put the truck in gear it still said that the door was ajar. I took the latch out and tried it and it said the same thing. I called all the auto parts stores in my area and nobody had the latch assembly. Is that something that I'm going to have to get from a dealership? If anyone out there would happen to know how to fix this problem or what is causing it, I would greatly appreciate it.
January 14th, 2022, 11:14 PM
#25
I've been working on this today, my alarm went off last night, and I thought it was my neighbor's truck so I ignored it till my wife walked into my home office and said the dome light was on in my truck!
I went out and checked all the doors, they were all locked and no signs of forced entry. The DIC displayed (right rear door ajar) After trying a number of things, I opened my battery cables on both batteries and left it for the night.
Just a note, it's been unusually wet here for weeks on end!
Today I took the inside door panel off and inspected the locking mechanism, my truck is a 2006 HD 2500 with 108,000 miles, I removed some dirt and grit with an electrical cleaner, wiped it all down and tested the switch. closed position gave me about dot 3 ohms, switch open was about 50 ohms. There's a connector for power to the lock, and another 4 pin connector with two leads in it that I assume report and open or a closed door to the BCM? I made a test lead and with the leads open or shorted, the door is seen open by the DIC when the engine is running, the trans in drive. I suspect this switch should look a lot more OPEN than 50 ohms, but I've proved if it's wide open or looped solid, it does not change what the DIC displays.
So where is this BMC under the dash? I'm pretty amazed as to how little information there is on locating where the real problem is, It looks like almost everyone buys a new door latch assembly before any real testing is done.
Whether it's good or bad, this thread is the best I've found on the topic.
I went out and checked all the doors, they were all locked and no signs of forced entry. The DIC displayed (right rear door ajar) After trying a number of things, I opened my battery cables on both batteries and left it for the night.
Just a note, it's been unusually wet here for weeks on end!
Today I took the inside door panel off and inspected the locking mechanism, my truck is a 2006 HD 2500 with 108,000 miles, I removed some dirt and grit with an electrical cleaner, wiped it all down and tested the switch. closed position gave me about dot 3 ohms, switch open was about 50 ohms. There's a connector for power to the lock, and another 4 pin connector with two leads in it that I assume report and open or a closed door to the BCM? I made a test lead and with the leads open or shorted, the door is seen open by the DIC when the engine is running, the trans in drive. I suspect this switch should look a lot more OPEN than 50 ohms, but I've proved if it's wide open or looped solid, it does not change what the DIC displays.
So where is this BMC under the dash? I'm pretty amazed as to how little information there is on locating where the real problem is, It looks like almost everyone buys a new door latch assembly before any real testing is done.
Whether it's good or bad, this thread is the best I've found on the topic.
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