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My 2500hd 6.0 is overheating when climbing hills while towing

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Old October 21st, 2010 | 3:01 AM
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PaulHuntzyLa's Avatar
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Default My 2500hd 6.0 is overheating when climbing hills while towing

Hi my name is Paul I'm new here so please bare with me,

I have a 02' silverado 2500hd with a 6.0l gas engine with just over 205k miles, When ever I'm towing my 20' Carson empty enclosed trailer up a hill the truck starts to overheat, I don't want to spend money on something that I'm not sure is going to fix it, Anyone have any suggestions? The trucks runs perfectly while not towing.
Old October 21st, 2010 | 3:14 AM
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Mille Racer 69's Avatar
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How is the antifreeze level?
Have you added quite a bit of water lately?
Maybe the coolant has gotten diluted and is no longer doing it's job.

Also, make sure the coolant is being circulated.
Check the coolant reservoir level with the truck cold, then drive it around or whatever
And check the level with the engine warmed up. There should be 2 distinctly different
Levels is the reservoir.
Also if you add coolant make sure it is the same type/color.
If you mix the colors then sludge will develop in your system from a chemical reaction.
That is all I can think of off the top of my head at midnight. Good luck.
Old October 21st, 2010 | 2:41 PM
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with that many miles i would look at the fan clutch.
also may have debris between radiator and ac condernsor, that will slow air flow.
Old October 21st, 2010 | 5:45 PM
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Originally Posted by wellmax
with that many miles i would look at the fan clutch.
also may have debris between radiator and ac condernsor, that will slow air flow.
How can i check thoes?
Old October 21st, 2010 | 8:33 PM
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the radiator, it may not be that easy, but just unbolt it and move it back enough to look between radiator and condensor, other wise you might just try a water hose and run water down between the two and see if any material flow out.

the fan clutch, if motor has 200+k and the fan clutch has never been replace then its weak or on it last legs. It must lockup and pull air when the motor heats up, if its weak it will slip and not pull the proper air flow through the radiator.

good luck,
Old October 21st, 2010 | 10:19 PM
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Hi PaulHuntzyLa,

Welcome to the Chevy forums.

I agree with washing out the fins in the radiator with a garden hose ONLY.
Also be sure to keep at least a 50% water ratio in the coolant to ensure proper cooling.

Change the overflow or radiator cap.

How's the transmission filter? Changed recently? It's a 40K interval change which gets largely ignored.

The HD is a great work platform which will shrug off a lot of abuse, but any drive train has it's limits.

Be sure both truck and trailer tires are properly inflated, and your trailer bearings are properly lubricated.

Last edited by therewolf; October 21st, 2010 at 10:39 PM.
Old October 22nd, 2010 | 5:47 PM
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Originally Posted by therewolf
Hi PaulHuntzyLa,

Welcome to the Chevy forums.

I agree with washing out the fins in the radiator with a garden hose ONLY.
Also be sure to keep at least a 50% water ratio in the coolant to ensure proper cooling.

Change the overflow or radiator cap.

How's the transmission filter? Changed recently? It's a 40K interval change which gets largely ignored.

The HD is a great work platform which will shrug off a lot of abuse, but any drive train has it's limits.

Be sure both truck and trailer tires are properly inflated, and your trailer bearings are properly lubricated.

How do i wash the radiator? Take it out and pour water? And does anyone know how to tell if fan clutch needs replacing and if theres debris in the radiator.
Old October 23rd, 2010 | 10:38 AM
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Whoa! Slow down there, bud.

Leave everything assembled. Look through your front grill. You'll see your A/C cooler that's in front of your radiator. You can rinse that off without taking anything apart.

Carefully disconnect the top half of your fan shroud. There's two 10MM bolts at the top rear of your radiator, and two plastic bolts at the rear of the radiator midway down in the engine compartment, on each side. There's also a couple of small hose connectors at the rear top, snap them loose. Should take no more than 15-25 minutes, once you skull it. Then most of your inside radiator is waiting for you to hose it out from back to front. I repeat,GARDEN HOSE PRESSURE ONLY. Be thorough. Take your time, this doesn't cost much.

As to the fan clutch, the OEM is a BRICK, weighs about 17 pounds, I don't see how the water-pumps last 25,000 miles turning these pachyderms. Most replacements at parts stores (@65$) will be much lighter, I'm talking about 1/4 to 1/3 as much weight. 205 THOUSAND miles? Yeah, for that kind of money, next time your waterpump quits,(oh yeah,it will) just replace them both. Respect and keep the fan, it's a bit of a PITA, but unless you can find a lighter one somewhere, you're just going to pay the dealer about 200$ for a new one.

Debris IN the radiator? My rule of thumb is whatever is in your overflow tank is in your radiator. If you have anything but clean, clear fluid,
go to a professional shop (NOT a dealership) and have them flush and clean your radiator and cooling system. Most would agree NOT to refill it with Dexcool.Which means DO NOT have this job done by a GM dealership. My coolant of choice would be the latest offering by PRESTONE rated for GM 8cylinder engines, BESIDES Dexcool. You absolutely want a non-Dexcool product, because Dexcool has too many problems with sludge-ing, gunking, and coolant contamination, as well, apparently, as engine corrosion issues. Dexcool doesn't mix well with any other product.

Be sure your new coolant mix is AT LEAST 50% water.

Last edited by therewolf; October 23rd, 2010 at 10:54 AM.
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