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2014 Chevy Silverado
Platform: Truck, GMT 400, 800, & 900

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Old September 10th, 2009, 9:20 PM
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while trying to figure out the reason for no TCC lock up on my 92 chevy with a 700r4 i now have a no start condition. I have spark, but i get no fuel pump, and when i jump the fuel pump i still get no fuel from the injectors. I've seen this problem once before in a tbi blazer and it turned out to be the distributor. Would this possibly cause my issue with no lock up and then lead to a no start condition? or should I be looking for bad wiring somewhere?
the truck seems to not get power to the brake light switch for the TCC clutch override side of the switch.
any help or input i can get here would be helpful, either for the no start or for the lock up issue, the transmission has been rebuilt, it may not have a locking converter in it, but at this point the wiring doesn't check out at all either.
Old September 10th, 2009, 9:54 PM
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a couple things come to mind here. First try tapping on the tank while jumping the wiring, this will usually jiggle the pump and get it working again. Second is to reach up and test the wires going to the module. This is probably just coincidence with your tcc diagnostic problem.
Old September 11th, 2009, 9:13 PM
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Originally Posted by lukemoore646
a couple things come to mind here. First try tapping on the tank while jumping the wiring, this will usually jiggle the pump and get it working again. Second is to reach up and test the wires going to the module. This is probably just coincidence with your tcc diagnostic problem.

the fuel pump works when i jump the wiring, looks to be i'm not getting power to the green signal wire on the fuel pump relay when i have the key in the on position, I tried getting wiring diagrams for this truck off mitchell ondemand but it appears they don't have any engine wiring diagrams????
Old September 12th, 2009, 8:38 AM
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They do have wiring for your truck, they are just old diagrams and aren't laid out very nicely. Unless you use them frequently, it and be a pain to find stuff.
The green\white wire that feeds the relay comes from the ECM(pin A1). Check for voltage there. If no voltage, you probably need an ECM. You can re-wire the relay but must be carefull when using this method. Cut the green\white either at the ecm, or at the fuse panel....leave enough to reconnect it later if you replace the ecm. Run a wire into the cab to the ignition switch. Connect it to an ignition wire(NOT ACCY). Now the pump will run whenever the key is on so do not leave the key in the on position without having it running.
Old September 12th, 2009, 9:24 PM
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Originally Posted by shawnvw
They do have wiring for your truck, they are just old diagrams and aren't laid out very nicely. Unless you use them frequently, it and be a pain to find stuff.
The green\white wire that feeds the relay comes from the ECM(pin A1). Check for voltage there. If no voltage, you probably need an ECM. You can re-wire the relay but must be carefull when using this method. Cut the green\white either at the ecm, or at the fuse panel....leave enough to reconnect it later if you replace the ecm. Run a wire into the cab to the ignition switch. Connect it to an ignition wire(NOT ACCY). Now the pump will run whenever the key is on so do not leave the key in the on position without having it running.
going to check all that tomorrow, but i tried swapping out for an ECM out of another one of my trucks and stilll nothing, we'll see what happens
Old September 13th, 2009, 8:48 AM
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maybe the green\white wire broke or something is not fully seated
Old September 13th, 2009, 7:58 PM
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Originally Posted by shawnvw
maybe the green\white wire broke or something is not fully seated
got it running again today, turned out to be a loose wire to the ECM 1 fuse in the fuse box, still no converter lock up, although i verified that the tan/black wire from from the tranny plug to ECM is good, i have 12 volts power on the blue wire coming from the ecm at the tranny plug the only thing thats frustrating me is on the brake light switch, i have 12 volts power coming into the switch, no power going out, but if i run a resistance check across the switch its got full flow to it no matter where the switch is positioned, so i'm thinking it may need a new one? but it doesn't have 12 volts power going out the other wire
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