JapanAaron

Need some input into the following brake dragging problem, I have a 1999 Silverado with rear disc brakes. Brake pads were starting to squeal and needed replaced. Replaced the pads with factory replacement pads. Used a brake caliper depresser to push the caliper piston into the caliper (passenger side was easy to depress, drivers side was difficult). Installed the brake pads then went for a test drive. During the test drive the rear brakes were dragging badly. Returned home, removed the rotors and had them turned (had rust build up), bled the brakes and still have the same issue. Removed the new pads and reinstalled the old pads and now have no dragging, however the pads are down to almost nothing at all and have to be replaced soon. Any ideas on what the issue could be? Calipers need replacement? Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

ukrkoz

well, I have just done rear pads about 2 mths ago and front ones about a month ago. One thing that cought my eye was that calipers are very hard to move back and for on guide pins. I have done brakes on fords, mitsus, hondas, toyotas, mazdas, lexus - and this is the first time I see calipers so reluctant to slide the way they are supposed to.
Yes, I DID LUBRICATE ALL THE CONTACT POINTS AND PINS.
Ahynow, did you lubricate those?
Brakes drag for 2 reasons:
1. back up pressure in the system
2. sticky caliper.
backup pressure in the system can be because of the improperly installed booster pin, sticky master, clogged fluid lines, kink in a brake line, or mulfunctioning proportionate valve.

sticky caliper is sticky caliper - just does not return. were your new brake pads evenly worn or one was more? should be one on the sticky caliper side.
This is what I, PERSONALLY, would have done:
1. remove brake pads, remove dust boot on caliper, VERY CAREFULLY press caliper out as far as it is safe (it can come out completely) and spray penetrating lubricant on piston walls. Let it sit, clean, and lub with quality grease. then press it back in. Brake depressor, hah? large C-clmap 6 bucks anywhere works just fine.
2. I'd have lubricated all contact points and guide pins.
I had HARD time getting front pads in. HARDEST EVER. was about the worst brake job I have ever done. You might have pad sitting in the bracket cockeyed a little, that'll do.

In case life happens and you decide to replace caliper - don't! calipers are easy to overhaul, all you need to do is to press piston out in a vise, clean the gut, and replace sealing ring. re-bleed the system, of course. when you remove the brake line from caliper, plug something into it toprevent lots of fluid from dripping out and lots of air from getting in. a stick works fine.

JapanAaron

ukrkoz,

thanks for the recommendations. I will try the tech tips that you provided as soon as my new rotors arrive. My old rotors were pretty worn. I also ordered caliper rebuild kits and will try to lubricate everything thoroughly during reassembly. I have done more brake jobs than I can remember and have never had this much trouble. I did change the front pads and found them to be fairly easy. Yes, you can laugh at my caliper piston tool, I got it for free so no money spent on my end. Old brake pads were worn evenly on both sides of rotor. I will report back once all my parts arrive.