i am rebuilding the 4L60E out of my 1998 k1500. a while back i was driving down the road and all of a sudden i lost everything. i got it home. pulled the trans, 2 clutch pack were completly burnt and the steels rainbow colored. the filter was plugged and the band was burnt bad too. what could have happened?

but thatnot my issue right now, im rebuilding it myself. im a trained mechaninc but have never done and automatic trans. i bough the rebuild kit, a full bearing and bushing kit, and a rebuild manual. i have a few questions,
1. i dont have the spring compressor needed to pull the reverse/low piston apart, or the other piton, any ideas on what else i could use?
2. the new steels in the rebuild kit do not have the little hole cut in the like them like the old one have. are they ok to use?
3. the rebuild manual says that the low/reverse clutch pack need to be 1.200 - 1.240 inches thick, to get that i have to use new and old steels and clutches, is that correct or is the book wrong?

 

Dude good luck. I do not think you are going to find your answers here. I have yet to see a trans rebuilder on this forum. The feeling of doing it yourself is defiantly great but sometimes it cost you less in the long run to pay someone else. Wish I could help sorry and good luck.

 

Youi're going to need the spring compressors and a good pair of hook-nosed snap ring pliers. Also, you will need the installation tool for the input shaft seals. Also, plenty of assembly jel.

Do not tear those seals during installation! Pay close attention to the thrust bearings/washers and their location. They only go in ONE way.

Forget about the steels, they are fine. Likewise on the low-reverse clutch; only time ya have to worry 'bout that rascal is with the light duty units, which you do not have. IF there are 5 fibers, slap it in there.

Do not remove/install the converter bushing from the front and make darned sure you have input shaft end-play after you're all done.

When you go to install the transmission, make sure you have to pull that converter forward to the flywheel and tighten the indexing slot first. If the converter is up tight against the flywheel when first installed, the converter is not fully seated into the pump and you'll break the pump when sucking up the case to the block.

Oh, and just for what it's worth, I've been rebuilding GM automatics since 1959 so think I've a pretty good handle on the silly things.

Allan