07 oil pressure sensor/switch location
 

My check engine light came on and the code read a oil pressure sensor/switch. I got the part but would like to know where to locate it. and the best way to access it.
Thanks..

Engine Mechanical - 4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L and 6.2L

Service Information
2007 Chevrolet Tahoe - 2WD | Avalanche, Escalade, Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon (VIN C/K) Service Manual | Document ID: 1698844
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Engine Oil Pressure Sensor and/or Switch Replacement
Tools Required
J 41712 Oil Pressure Switch Socket

Removal Procedure




Remove the intake manifold. Refer to Intake Manifold Replacement .
Disconnect the engine harness electrical connector (1) from the oil pressure sensor.



If not equipped with active fuel management perform the following step, using J 41712 or equivalent, remove the oil pressure sensor (706) and washer (707).



If equipped with active fuel management perform the following step, using J 41712 or equivalent, remove the oil pressure sensor (706) and washer (707).
Installation Procedure




Apply sealant to the threads of the NEW oil pressure sensor. Refer to Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers .
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in the Preface section.

If equipped with active fuel management perform the following step, using J 41712 or equivalent. Install the oil pressure sensor (706) and washer (707).
Tighten
Tighten the sensor to 35 N·m (26 lb ft).





If not equipped with active fuel management, perform the following step, using J 41712 or equivalent. Install the oil pressure sensor (706) and washer (707).



Connect the engine harness electrical connector (1) to the oil pressure sensor.
Tighten
Tighten the sensor to 35 N·m (26 lb ft).

Install the intake manifold. Refer to Intake Manifold Replacement .
© 2011 General Motors Corporation. All rights reserved.

Thanks, The code read was P0523. Is that the correct fix. Im a novice to this so need a little more detail on location of sensor. Some one said the sensor was next to the oil filter. Correct? Easy fix or do I need mechanic?

Remember that the DTC just gets you in the neighborhood of the problem. The FSM has detailed fault trees to track down the ultimate faulty part. Yours indicates an open/high resistance or a short to voltage. Now that could either be caused by a faulty sensor or a wiring fault. The FSM contains concise troubleshooting steps.

paintit: I have a complete set of the 2007 Factory Service Manuals (FSM) (like new condition) that I'll sell you for $100 plus shipping. Detailed instructions for lots of stuff. :)

On the old generation SBCs, the oil pressure sensor was either at the back of the block near the distributor or down on the side above the oil filter. Oh for the old days. ;)

The above instructions state to remove the intake manifold, before I did that, I would check to see if its worth the effort to try and reach it and if its possible to do it without removing the intake, may take longer but one less can of worms...

I think he needs to take a VOM and verify the three wires at the connector to ensure it's not a wiring problem.

Thanks for all input. I may try to get to sensor without touching manifold 1st. If I cant get to it, removal of manifold is beyond my scope of work.
Thanks again..

Replaced sensor without removing manifold. Took longer and some inginuity but with a shorty ratchet it worked fantastic. Saved me big$.

good job
 

Excellent! that is great info and thanks for taking the time to follow up on the results of your repair! That is what makes the forum work :cool:

Oil Pressure Gauge
 

I was driving along the other day and my turn engine off light came on. The oil pressure gauge dropped to 0 and like others if I floor the engine then the gauge goes to 30 or so then bleeds back down to 0. I checked the oil and there is no sign of contaminants such as water or gas. The oil is full. Everyone is talking about codes but I see none. Is this something I will have to get a computer to check for? I am out of cash at this point and taking it to the dealer is going to have to wait. The question is how much damage if any I am doing to the engine. My wife has been driving it about 3 miles to work every day while I drive her car. The engine sounds fine when it is warmed up. The suburban has hard started for several year now where you here small noise when you first start it until the oil gets distributed. At least that is what the dealer told me the noise is. Let me know what you think please.

Welcome to the forum...
What year and model of vehicle?
It would be best to have the oil pressure checked as the pump could be failing. The loss of the engine is the worst case.

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As previous poster paintit posted, it may be a sensor problem. However, that is not a diagnosis, just a suggestion. When the check engine light stays on, it could mean numerous things. I would encourage you to take the vehicle in for an inspection, better safe than sorry.

If you would like, if you PM me your VIN number, I can research your vehicle further.

I look forward to your response.

Louis
GM Customer Service

I need to do exactly the same repair. I would love to know exactly what size wrench and socket you used to do the work.

OK, so this thread gave me the encouragement to attempt the fix myself. So, Michael it was a major PITA but I was able to make it happen. After disconnecting the brake booster hose, I was able to fit a 27mm socket over the sending unit and get the failed sender off. Getting the new sender on was a real challenge having to get it threaded blindly. Lastly was getting the electrical connection back in place. It turns out that jacking up the body for a little extra clearance made all the difference.

I used a shorty ratchet and bought a oxygen sensor socket for the ratchet.
Its tough to get to locate so i took mirror on a pole extender and a good flashlight to locate it. then it was just a matter of getting the socket positioned right to get it on the sensor. once it was on (straight) the rest was a snap. I put the socket on first to make sure it was on correct. Also I used a swivel head on the ratchet, to make it a little easier to manuver.
Good luck. Let me know how you made out.

Mr. Pattison, I have had the exact same issue on three occasions. Each time the solution was an oil change but the important factor was the filter. I had been having changes at a big chain but they have switched to cheap filters. The filters seem to keep collapsing. I have changed to doing the oil changes myself and using synthetic oils and a top grade filter. Its a little pricier but it also alleviates the oil consumption issue to a certain degree. This balances the cost a bit. However I have just had the oils sender fail and was on line searching that solution out when I noticed your comment. It is not a good idea to drive it if you are not SURE you are getting oil.
Every single time it happened I limped home and changes the oil.

Has anyone else done this repair without taking off the manifold. Any further input besides what is above? I'm looking at the pages in the manual, but I want to do it without that hassle. Dealership wants $125 for the labor to replace it. I have done most of my own work on all 3 of my vehicles (including the complete top end on my Typhoon) and feel I could wiggle in there and do it. Anyone also know what type of sealant I am supposed to use on the threads?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!

fighting5thsvt Welcome to the forum...
If you read post #8 in this tread you will see that it can be done without removing the manifold...

I read all of the posts. Just throwing it out there to see if anyone else had any pointers or tricks.

Thank you for the welcome--glad to be here and to have stumbled onto this forum...

Hello all. I just replaced the oil pressure sensor on my wife's 2006 Yukon (5.3 engine). I was able to replace with only removing the plastic intake cover and the air intake (from air cleaner to throttle body). This required loosening three 5/16 screws (one on intake cover and two clamps on air intake) and four screws (air cleaner cover). These were removed to ensure they weren't cracked as I laid across engine to reach back of engine on the drivers side (right side) to remove the sensor. Location is directly under firewall before back of engine meets the transmission. I used a 3/4" drive, two 6" 3/4" extensions, ¾” swivel, and a Autozone Oil pressure sensor socket #25254 to remove the sensor. I will try and add pictures for location and to show what I removed. Took 15min max and corrected the issue with the oil pressure guage jumping around and chiming. Hopefully this will help
Pictures as promised:
Plastic intake cover removed (one 5/16 bolt):<O:p></O:p>
http://vivian.smugmug.com/Cars/car-r.../IMG1196-L.jpg<O:p></O:p>
Air intake (from air cleaner to throttle body - two 5/16 clamp screws and 4 air cleaner screws:<O:p></O:p>
http://vivian.smugmug.com/Cars/car-r.../IMG1195-L.jpg

Oil sensor socket from Autozone:<O:p></O:p>
http://vivian.smugmug.com/Cars/car-r.../IMG1197-L.jpg

Driver, extensions, swivel, and socket:<O:p></O:p>
http://vivian.smugmug.com/Cars/car-r.../IMG1194-L.jpg

Location of sensor when laying on top of engine towards windshield:<O:p></O:p>
http://vivian.smugmug.com/Cars/car-r.../IMG1191-L.jpg

Another view:<O:p></O:p>
http://vivian.smugmug.com/Cars/car-r.../IMG1192-L.jpg

Oil pressure sensor
 

Read the posts on changing out this sensor was trying my best to avoid taking that intake manifold off or not:confused:....Yes!! you can do it w/o removing it:) Takes some patience,time and some tricky hand manuvers but it can be done!! But saved me $$. Thanks!!

Welcome to the forum and thanks for flowing up that you were able to do it with info in this post !

What is the sensor/plug located next to the oil press. sensor on the 07 tahoe?

If your looking at the truck from the outside its located on the mid to right side(driver side) of the engine on top near the fire wall of the truck.

Thanks. I could not wait as I needed my car tomorrow. The guys at OReilly's could not figure out where the KS was even with the diagram...it did not show it for the 07 on the top, both on the sides. Oh well. I am done.

For what it's worth: Last week I had the oil pressure sensor replaced at Firestone. The vehicle is a 07 Suburban with 142k miles. The bill was $425. I did not pay them for a diagnostic test. I disconnected the battery and reconnected it. Turned the ignition on and the oil pressure gauge pegged then went back to 0. I figured the gauge was good.
First quote was $300,later they called back and said they would have to remove the intake manifold. I would have done it myself,but it had been raining for 4 days and the temperature dropped.
It doesn't sound like a difficult job.

Some quick help please, I need to do this fix on my '07 suburban. As a test fit I tried to stick my hand back there and reach the sensor. I'm confident I can get the old one out but not so confident I can get the new one in. My hand has to stay pretty flat to get it back there using only my finger tips, so I don't think I can hold the new sensor without dropping it. Someone posted some pix earlier but on my car there is a heat shield attached to the back of the manifold that i did not see in the other pix. Is that shield removable and if so how?, I'm sure if it wasn't there I could do it not problem or if I could push it out of the way slightly. If it is not easily removed, anyone that has done it with that shield in place any tips for dropping the new one in place with out dropping it altogether would be greatly appreciated.

Welcome to the forum.

Can you put some masking tape inside the socket so that the sensor won't fall out but will allow you to pull the socket off after tightening.

Thanks for the suggestion. I had thought about using the tape as well but since I didn't see that shield in some pix posted by other users I was really hoping someone would say, "o yea that shield comes off easy here is what you do...." No such luck. So I did use the tape method and got it in fairly quickly (easier than I thought). The hardest part was getting the plug back in. Took me awhile to get my hand in a position where I could wiggle my fingers enough to plug it back in. All told I think it took about 1.5 hours to change it and most of that was spent trying to figure out different ingenious and not so ingenious ways to reach back there. Started car up and pressure is as should be. Now if I could just get the stupid thing to stop burning oil, but that is a whole different topic as I'm sure many of us are aware of :mad:. Thanks. Great forum by the way, used it many times.

This can be done without removing the intake (07+)
 

Like Paintit says, this can be done using the right tools and some ingenuity/dexterity. Paintit and other's posts gave me the confidence to do this myself & save big $$
I did a writeup here.

just a suggestion: these right ups are great but a step by step with photos would be outstanding to help guys such as myself who can't read. LOL. but seriously i'm a visual learner as i guess a lot of guys on here are. so pics along with instructions and make these stickys since it seems like a common occurance

After following this thread, finally mustered up enough courage to attempt the procedure on 2007 Suburban 5.3L.

After two hours, dropped a switch, dropped the socket, a few of choice words and with a bit of luck, I got the new switch in.

No more dancing oil gauge, DIC doesn't tell me to STOP ENGINE, V8 to V4 fuel management feature works again and Check Engine Light went off!

I found it easier to put rachet assembly on in stages; I put the socket/uni joint/ext together and was able to put that on the switch, then added 2nd ext and finally the articulating rachet.

When I disconnected the wired plug, it's rubber seal stayed in the bad switch, I had to take it out of the switch and put it on the plug before plugging it into the new switch.

After all was said and done, the ordeal was worthwhile as I saved over $300; I might feel differently had I not been able to find and retrieve the dropped switch and socket!

Took the following photos to try to help others who are considering the task,

1) Heat shield on 07's have no bolts. Just lift and wiggle out.
Attachment 10973

2) 07's have another heat shield at the back of the engine.
Attachment 10974

3) Switch is barely visible through a hole at the bottom of the heat shield.
Attachment 10975

4) Photo of switch behind the heat shield.
Attachment 10976

5) Position of socket/universal joint/extension/extension/rachet.
Attachment 10977

6) Photo of socket on switch.
Attachment 10978

Good luck to those who will give this a try.

Welcome to the forum.

Thanks for the great write-up and pics. It's what makes the forum work and others will appreciate it in the future. :cool:

Thank You!! This worked perfectly. The pics were very helpful! Did the whole job in 2 hours. My only addition to the suggested tool set was a 2 inch wabble extender. That extra wiggle made all the difference. Good luck to those who come after me.

on the 07 flex fuel 5.3 is the sensor in the same place? I can't find the thing to save my life

Oil Pressure Sensor
 

I replaced the sensor about 1 week ago. Had no problems out of it until today. Started the vehicle got to the end ml of my street and the check engine light, oil pressure light, and stabilitrak light came on. All these lights came on the first time as well. The code that came up on the last engine reading with P0521 which was Oil Pressure Sensor High Voltage. Any information on any possible fix for this problem?

Sounds like a bad sensor. Or the filter inside where the sensor goes is clogged.

I just did this job today on my 2007 suburban. Used a wobble joint, a 6 inch extension, and a swivel 3/8 drive. Took me 20 min.

SOME ADVICE -

The engine cover just pops off. No bolts. Lift up and pull out.

1. Blanket on the fender so you can lay down without getting stuck in the gut. Much more comfortable. That took the longest. Finding a way to lay in there comfortably. Best when I could get really close to firewall.

2. Smash your hand into the firewall padding first to get your hand back there and feel around. The padding is thick and gives a lot.

3. Feed the socket and all down in there with your left while your right hand is around back by firewall to receive everything. If you do it piece by piece it will take longer. Just move slow and steady.

4. Don't remove the socket and ratchet when you break it lose. Tried to remove with my bare hand and it was a bit too tight. Take your time to make sure you got it lose before you use your hand. I had to put the socket back on twice.

4. Keep the 3 tubes clear the best you can. Those are the ones that get in the way. Don't be afraid to gentle shift them around. The hard line is the worst one. Might need to pull it your way a bit so your right hand can clear.

5. Putting the new one back in with my hand against the firewall was super fast and easy. Make sure plug lock faces the tab on the new sensor. Mine was facing the other way from the old one and had to twist a bit.

6. When done disconnect the battery to reset computer.

Job is very fast and easy if you get familiar with the space and how the tubes move around. I actually removed the breather tube on the back of the valve cover because it just slide off. Not needed, but was 1 less tube to deal with.

Thanks to all for the advice to do myself. Spent $40 on sensor and $40 on some nice craftsman tools.

Tool assembly order makes a difference.
 

Thank you so much for the pictures and instructions!!! I have a 2007 Tahoe with the 5.3L Flex Fuel motor. My experience mirrored Thrill68, right down to the "Oh S...t!" moment when the new plug fell out of the socket. I would only add that I found the best approach for getting the tools in there to be to first put the socket over the plug, then with both in position, put the swivel adapter on the socket, then you can thread the 6" extension in the straightest path through the blind spaghetti of fuel rails, vacuum hoses and wires. forget about trying to thread the whole socket, swivel, extension, wrench assembly in there at once. This may be obvious to most, but it took trial and error for me. Lastly, I think the switch removal socket picked up from O'Brian's Auto parts made a big difference. Check the fit at the store however, I was amazed to find that, of the two sockets they had is stock with the same part number, one fit the sensor and the other was a little too small. I can't imagine the frustration if I had headed home with the faulty one. Happy wrenching!

Not bad
 

Replaced O.P. switch in 2008 Tahoe5.3. Took about 1hr. with most time trying to remove PIA plastic heat shield. Finally took small block of wood and wedged out of way,plenty of room then. Also used 5/16"x4" bolt to remove filter after switch removed. Threaded it in to filter (about 2 threads) gently and pulled it out carefully. Be sure not to drop it because it is a dealer only part which probably costs $150(LOL) Cleaned it with brake cleaner,dropped it back in hole and installed new switch. No hoses or lines in way except heat shield. Used 27 mm deep socket, swivel joint,2 extens. and ratchet. Did not put ext. thru the fuel rail as in picture because the straighter up you keep everything the easier to turn. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!!(26 ft. lbs.) Hope this helps. Can't see how they charge $400 for this!:D:D:D

2007 GMC Denali 6.2 Liter
 

Ok I just replaced this after the dealer said it would cost $380.00 bucks. $41.00 part at Auto Zone. I used a 1 1/16 socket make sure this is not an impact socket but the thinnest wall socket you can find. I then added a swivel on top of this. I actually welded it on so it wouldn't fall off. Then get this unit on to the sensor. Believe me it is a pain because of the fuel line and two other lines. It goes on though, Once you get that on then stick one of two smaller extensions on to this. Then I added another small extension. So in total I had two small extensions. I then was able to get it loose. Took off socket then turned it out by hand. Placed the new one in by hand got the socket on and then repeated the process torqued to 24 ft lbs. Put on wire plug started and revved up engine and it worked. My gauge was pegged to zero before hand.

This job sucks. build yourself al little platform to lay on. Your hand will get rubbed raw from the firewall and the vacuum hose to brake is in the way. And that fuel line is the real pain.

Hope that helps.