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2013 Chevrolet Suburban
Platform: GMT 400, 800, 900

'12 burb - Where to get switched or non 12V high current?

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Old May 16, 2013 | 8:38 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by SWHouston
As far as the level of difficulty...
It depends on how "handy" you are. Find a open space where you can drill, use a Wire Protector (rubber grommet) to isolate your wire as it passes through the Firewall .
Yeah... That's probably more than I want to do for now. Are there open spaces such that one could get a drill in? I know some of my previous car were impossible to even get a hand in anywhere! Looks like I need to do some exploring on the 'burb... I don't think I've even opened the hood yet!

Where would the distribution block go? In the engine compartment or inside?

I can just see the look on the wife's face.. "What are you doing with that drill to our new suburban!"

If I just want to get power from inside... Is there an easy place to get it?

Thanks

Jim
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Old May 16, 2013 | 1:14 PM
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Originally Posted by jbuszkie

Are there open spaces such that one could get a drill in? I know some of my previous car were impossible to even get a hand in anywhere! Looks like I need to do some exploring on the 'burb... I don't think I've even opened the hood yet!

Where would the distribution block go? In the engine compartment or inside?

If I just want to get power from inside... Is there an easy place to get it?
Where there's a will, there's a way.

The Dist Block would go in an out of the way/hidden but common/equidistance from the components you intend to install.

There are several Hot wires available inside, where you could get power from. HOWEVER, I have not known GM to put a wire size in any location, which was well able to take the fair increase in amperage, which sound systems require. IOW: they install only what's necessary to run their OEM equipment.

Now, lots of people use existing Hots, and just increase the Fuse Rating on that circuit to accommodate the aftermarket equipment. Sometimes that works, sometimes it doesn't, and you take the risk of burning/melting a wire. That usually takes out several or all of the wires in that bundle.
Your choice.

You say you've never even opened the hood on your ride !
(you probably shouldn't have told me that)
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Old May 17, 2013 | 9:56 AM
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Originally Posted by SWHouston
There are several Hot wires available inside, where you could get power from. HOWEVER, I have not known GM to put a wire size in any location, which was well able to take the fair increase in amperage, which sound systems require. IOW: they install only what's necessary to run their OEM equipment.
Is there no open/spare spot on the fuse block that I could easily tie into? (or is the fuse block in the engine compartment?)

Originally Posted by SWHouston
You say you've never even opened the hood on your ride !
(you probably shouldn't have told me that)
Well.. I don't really even get to drive it! right now it's the wife's car until she get her commuter car. Heck.. It's not even in the garage yet! We need to clean it out so the suburban can even fit! I did open the hood once before we bought the car.. but never to investigate upgrade spots!
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Old May 17, 2013 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by jbuszkie
Is there no open/spare spot on the fuse block that I could easily tie into? (or is the fuse block in the engine compartment?)
It is possible that there may be open "slots" in any fuse block. Weather the wire associated with it/those is heavy enough to carry the current which you require, or, weather the route of that wire is in an accessible location for your needs would have to be researched. Fuse Blocks are located both under the hood and inside the Cab. I remind you of the moderate approach GM applies to those issues.

I appreciate your struggle to come up with an easy "fix" for this, but I can not condone any application which may put your electrical system in jeopardy immediately, or at some point in the future.

Last edited by SWHouston; May 17, 2013 at 12:33 PM.
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Old May 19, 2013 | 1:45 PM
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Originally Posted by SWHouston
It is possible that there may be open "slots" in any fuse block. Weather the wire associated with it/those is heavy enough to carry the current which you require, or, weather the route of that wire is in an accessible location for your needs would have to be researched. Fuse Blocks are located both under the hood and inside the Cab. I remind you of the moderate approach GM applies to those issues.

I appreciate your struggle to come up with an easy "fix" for this, but I can not condone any application which may put your electrical system in jeopardy immediately, or at some point in the future.
Hey.. What do you know... I actually looked under the hood today!! :-)
There is that spare battery compartment just staring me in the face! How can I NOT use it! I also see a bundle of wire going through a huge rubber weather shield. It seems to be what feeds the fuse block under the drive side. I tried to get that driver side fuse block cover off but I couldn't. There seesm to be some circular fastener in the center that seems to be holding it on. I tried to pry the whole cover off but I got scared that I would break it.

How do I get that off? I'd probably have to remove the whole fuse block to see if there is any room to squeeze my wires in.

Now would I want to get a deep cycle battery for the spare since it doesn't need to have the CCA that the main does?

Thanks for the help so far..

Jim
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Old May 19, 2013 | 1:53 PM
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Check out the picture in post #9 of this thread and you will see the 2 power studs available in the under-hood fuse block...
they are hot all the time (except crank)...
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Old May 20, 2013 | 1:12 AM
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Originally Posted by jbuszkie

Hey.. What do you know... I actually looked under the hood today!! :-)

There seesm to be some circular fastener in the center that seems to be holding it on. I tried to pry the whole cover off but I got scared that I would break it. How do I get that off?

I'd probably have to remove the whole fuse block to see if there is any room to squeeze my wires in.

Now would I want to get a deep cycle battery for the spare since it doesn't need to have the CCA that the main does?
FANTASTIC !, that's a step in the right direction

I am unfamiliar with the 2012 setup there, and hope that someone who is familiar with the Fuse Block Cover, to help us out here.

Jim, I'm not if favor of "squeezing" wires, or using existing wires for aftermarket equipment. You might use the route of that bundle, to gain access to the interior of your vehicle, without drilling though.

Yes, a Deep Cycle Battery is best used for your purposes, there are several good Manufacturers you can choose from.

Now...
What is the collective Current requirements of the equipment you wish to install ?
and...
Where in your vehicle do you intend to install that equipment ?
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Old May 21, 2013 | 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by in2pro
Check out the picture in post #9 of this thread and you will see the 2 power studs available in the under-hood fuse block...
they are hot all the time (except crank)...
I see them! what is there normal intended purpose? Are they identical? One looks bigger.

Are they already fused?

Thanks,

Jim
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Old May 21, 2013 | 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by SWHouston
I am unfamiliar with the 2012 setup there, and hope that someone who is familiar with the Fuse Block Cover, to help us out here.
I see if someone else knows. Or I'll just RTFM!! I imagine it should say in there how to get the cover off!


Originally Posted by SWHouston
What is the collective Current requirements of the equipment you wish to install ?
and...
Where in your vehicle do you intend to install that equipment ?
Not sure what the total current requirement will be.
IF I do the second battery (which seems like the right idea) then I'll want to try to move the radio and DVD players as well as my new media player and inverter to the new battery circuit.
The problem will be trying to find the power that they used for the overhead DVD players. My guess it's the dome light power... who knows what else is on that!

The total power for the media player I think is about 15W max. There inverter.. well that will depend on what size I get.

If I get a small inverter, I'll stick it underneath the center console tray and run an extension cord or maybe try to put an outlet in the back of the center console where the stock one would be. If I get a bigger one, then I'll mount it under the driver's seat. The media player will go in the center console storage if I can't find a way to hide it in the center console...

Jim
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Old May 21, 2013 | 1:08 PM
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Yes both are fused 30a and 40a one is for 12v to the trailer harness to charge a camper/trailer battery. The other stud is for a brake controller or other optional accessories ...
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