xitjustice

I am relatively new to doing my own car repair: I noticed a water leak at lower intake manifold and lifter noise started not too far afterward. I replaced the gaskets and the lifter. I followed the directions in my manuals, but guessing I may have done something wrong.

shaky, poor performance under load, poor mileage, no engine codes.

When I parked it to do the job I took a picture of where the rotor was and did not adequately mark the base of the distributor. I also just torqued the rocker arm bolt to spec but didn't put at specific part of stroke.

I adjusted cam retard to 0 deg as I have read on the forum. I also just put engine at TDC and checked the rotor position which looks like the tip is pointed just after the #8 on the distributor.

I think I did a good job using propane to find vacuum leak. However, going to probably get carb cleaner, also ordered vacuum gauge.

Fuel pressure is in the 50's, I tested that a while ago when I replaced the fuel pump.

Pulled the cap/rotor now and noticed very light wear on one tower of cap and center of rotor had a small point of black goo that looks like it came from the cap. Plugs all pretty much look the same when I pulled them.

Now what?
Was going to put on ACDelco cap/rotor as I have read are the best. Also new plug wires. Not sure if it may be some funky timing relearn procedure that needs to be done or what. Don't want to doing timing chain/gear replacement now unless it is absolutely necessary (Moving in 3 weeks, working full time, and don't have all my tools here anymore)

kevinkpk

You post just past #8, is it bettween 8 and 1 or 8 and 4? Way I read it just past means it is betweeen 8 and 4. Is #1 on tdc? If so, you need to pull the distributor, reset with the pointer on #1. Follow the firing order looking from top 1,8,4 ect, with the appropritae other plug wire end to proper cylinder. From driver seat, left is 1,3,5,7. Passenger is 2,4,6,8. Should add go clockwise on the cap looking down.

xitjustice

Apparently the rotor tip should point at the #8 cast into distributor representing the motor having 8 cyclinders. This #8 point coincides with the terminal #1 on the cap. Being just passed the casting #8 means the rotor tip is actually just passed #1, on the way to #8then ..4,3,6..

It isn't far from the correct point, I have read it should be exactly on the #8 and also read within a few degrees of #8.

kevinkpk

ok, try this, move all 8 plug wires clockwise one plug hole on the distributor.

xitjustice

I'll give that a shot, hopefully can find my old plug wires to try your theory out.

Anything I should do before putting it all back together? I have all the wires unhooked, cap/rotor off, spark plugs out. (i wish it wasn't such a pain to get to the cap bolt closest to the intake).

Thanks for your ideas on this. Been in the family since 1996, would like to keep it in the family for a lot longer.

kevinkpk

Take #1 plug wire, remove it, take the next (right) plug wire remove it, place the first plug wire you removed, install it on the next right plug hole on the distributor, remove the third plug wire from the the distributor, install the second plug wire into it, continue till you have moved all 8 one plug wire hole of the distributor one plug.

xitjustice

Is it possible to have distributor off a tooth and just have the distributor rotated to the correct position? I think that could be my issue because I did adjusted cam retard, when I went back to take cap off it was really hard to get to screw because upper intake was so close. Pretty sure I took it off with a socket a long time ago. this time I had to use a T-handle torque style tool to get it off. Also the picture I posted with the rotor was incorrect due to rotating the crankshaft CCW instead of clockwise. It is dead on the #8 stamp like it is supposed to be at TDC.

Thanks for any advice, planning on taking out distributor tomorrow if anyone thinks that could be what I did.

xitjustice

Took out distributor; did the lining up of white dot while engine at TDC. When I checked the cam retard i had it at -4 degrees but running pretty smooth. I then adjusted to -1 degree and it seemed to run more rough.

My theory: My timing chain with 166K miles on it may be stretched to the point where it helps to have a negative cam retard. Gave up on adjusting it for the night, have to finish work.

One other thing: I put my vacuum gauge on it when I first started it up and it read steady in the 'green zone'. I think it was about 17. When I looked at the scanner it was reading 10 for MAP which I thought was the same reading. (didn't check units on it, will next time).

What do you guys think about that?