tinchief123

All, IU have had my truck for about 4 yrs. The 4wd and cruise control has never worked however I noticed that once i installed an aftermarket radio, my fuel guage died, the front fan blower, daytime running lights and several other electrical components stopped working. I recently got another car to run around in and I let the truck sit for 4 days. When I attempted to start it, the battery was comletely drained.

Are there issues with adding any additional load to the electircal system of the '99 Burbans? Is there a DIY checklist for basic trouble shooting for the Suburban? Due to age has anyone ever re wired a Suburban? what are the cost?

HELP!!!!!!!

Mike_B

I've also got an 'odd' issue with my '99 K1500 'Burban:

Up till about a week ago, it's been running just fine. Around that time, I noticed that something seemed to be killing the battery (I always make sure everything's off before shutting down), and the last time it started, it had to be with a battery booster; it started normally, seemed to be running normally up till I got to my destination about 5 miles away and shut down to do what I had to do there.

Got back in the truck afterwards and turned the key and.........nothing. No solenoid click or anything, but I did hear the normal sound of the fuel pump kicking in. All of the panel lights came on as usual (Security, Brake, etc.). Then I heard what sounded like a clicking noise coming from behind the dash and thought I had maybe activated my flashers on the column switch accidentally (that's what it sounded like), but no, they weren't activated, It stopped after about a minute or so, with the key out of the ignition, but doing something as mundane as just opening a door caused it to happen again. I originally thought it might be a battery problem, but the battery shows a full charge when I put the charger/booster on it. While the key's in the ignition and in the "on/run" position, in addition to the clicking sound, the shift indicator light, clock on the radio and 4WD indicator lights all flash in unison with the clicking, even while the key's not in the ignition.

It's weird, because it's never happened before in the 4 years I've owned this vehicle.

What could the reason(s) be for this happening and what would be the fix for it, short of having it towed to a shop for a very expensive diagnosis/fix? Is this something I can do myself?

tinchief123

Do you happen to notice if the "SECURITY" light is on?

Mike_B

Only when I first turn the key to the start/run position - normally, when the engine starts, this all goes off in sequence. As far as I know, they only "Security" system in place on my vehicle is for the radio/tape deck. I could be wrong, but if I am, I have no idea as to how to clear it, as I bought the vehicle used and wasn't provided any kinds of codes for it.

repairman54

Battery needs a load check as a first step. Any battery over 3 yrs. old is suspect. It can show a full charge with no heavy load on it. A weak battery will not set codes.

Mike_B

OK, but could that be what's causing the flasher issue (when not activated)?

repairman54

Weak batteries can cause all kinds of crazy issues in computer vehicles. Battery has to be in top notch condition as a first step and then all 4 code families need to be read not just P codes. This is what any shop or dealer does before any other work is done. Shops do not rely on booster boxes in diagnosis either. It's a computer on tires now days.
Poor grounds are the next most common issue.

Mike_B

My friend's got the day off work tomorrow (Monday, 5/2) and I'm going to take my battery (which, admittedly is over 3 years old) to either the local Auto Zone or the O'Reilly's (formerly Checker Auto) and have it tested under load.
I should have enough to get a new one, but I suspect it's not a battery problem - but also admittedly, I could easily be wrong about that.
To paraphrase the character Leonard McCoy (and, subsequently, the other Star Trek "Doctors"), "I'm an Aircraft Mechanic, not an Auto Mechanic!"
Aircraft (the small ones) are sooo much easier to work on than cars.

Cusser

Mike - you know that in our Arizona climate that 3 years is considered a long life for a battery, right?

I've found Costco and Walmart batteries to be a little less expensive than O'Reilly and Autozone ones, and all are made by same manufacturer.

Mike_B

Yes, I know about that, but when you're as income-limited as I am, you tend to try to make things last as long as possible; the longer, the better. This battery was originally from Walmart and was dated 8/19 (2019)
I'm up in the Prescott, area, so not quite as much heat up here - overall about 15-20° cooler because of the elevation difference than down in the Valley, and reasonably mild winters (in general).