2001 suburban front wheel noise
#1
2001 suburban front wheel noise
i have a howling noise in the front end of our suburban. it seems to be maybe a front wheel bearing. is there a way to figure out if it is and know what side it is. the noise will change with speeds and if i go around corners.
hunterjo
hunterjo
#2
Administrator
That sounds (no pun intended) like a wheel bearing going out to me...
How many miles do you have on it?
If you get the front end off the ground and turn the tire you will probably be able to hear and feel the growl/ roughness.
I would do both sides regardless of which side it's on... the other side could easily go out a week later if you only do the offending side...
How many miles do you have on it?
If you get the front end off the ground and turn the tire you will probably be able to hear and feel the growl/ roughness.
I would do both sides regardless of which side it's on... the other side could easily go out a week later if you only do the offending side...
#3
Administrator
IF it is the front wheel bearing , here is the removal procedure, the hub is a whole assembly containing the wheel bearing.
Service Information
2001 Chevrolet Chevy Suburban - 2WD | Sierra, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon (VIN C/K) Service Manual | Document ID: 665737
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Front Wheel Hub, Bearing, and Seal Replacement (RWD)
Removal Procedure
Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle .
Remove the tire and wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation .
Remove the rotor. Refer to Front Brake Rotor Replacement .
Remove the wheel speed sensor and brake hose mounting bracket bolt from the steering knuckle.
Remove the wheel hub and bearing (4) 15-series mounting bolts.
Remove the wheel hub and bearing mounting bolts (4) , the 25/35 series.
Remove the wheel hub and bearing and splash shield from the vehicle.
Remove the O-ring seal from the steering knuckle bore, the 25/35 series.
Remove the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt (5).
Clean and inspect the O-ring seal, the 25/35 series.
Replace the seal if the following conditions exist:
• Nicks
• Cuts
• Dry or brittle
• Compression set
Installation Procedure
Clean all corrosion or contaminates from the steering knuckle bore and the hub and bearing.
Lubricate the steering knuckle bore with wheel bearing grease or the equivalent.
Install the O-ring (7) to the steering knuckle, 25/35 series.
Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
Install the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 18 N·m (13 lb ft).
Install the wheel hub and bearing and splash shield to the vehicle, 25/35 series.
Install the wheel hub and bearing (4) and splash shield to the 15-series steering knuckle.
Install the wheel hub and the 15-series bearing mounting bolts.
Install the wheel hub and bearing mounting bolts, the 25/35 series.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 180 N·m (133 lb ft).
Install the wheel speed sensor and brake hose mounting bracket bolt to the steering knuckle.
Tighten
Tighten the brake hose clip bolt to 12 N·m (106 lb in).
Install the rotor. Refer to Front Brake Rotor Replacement .
Install the tire and wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation .
Lower the vehicle.
Service Information
2001 Chevrolet Chevy Suburban - 2WD | Sierra, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon (VIN C/K) Service Manual | Document ID: 665737
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Front Wheel Hub, Bearing, and Seal Replacement (RWD)
Removal Procedure
Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle .
Remove the tire and wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation .
Remove the rotor. Refer to Front Brake Rotor Replacement .
Remove the wheel speed sensor and brake hose mounting bracket bolt from the steering knuckle.
Remove the wheel hub and bearing (4) 15-series mounting bolts.
Remove the wheel hub and bearing mounting bolts (4) , the 25/35 series.
Remove the wheel hub and bearing and splash shield from the vehicle.
Remove the O-ring seal from the steering knuckle bore, the 25/35 series.
Remove the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt (5).
Clean and inspect the O-ring seal, the 25/35 series.
Replace the seal if the following conditions exist:
• Nicks
• Cuts
• Dry or brittle
• Compression set
Installation Procedure
Clean all corrosion or contaminates from the steering knuckle bore and the hub and bearing.
Lubricate the steering knuckle bore with wheel bearing grease or the equivalent.
Install the O-ring (7) to the steering knuckle, 25/35 series.
Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
Install the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 18 N·m (13 lb ft).
Install the wheel hub and bearing and splash shield to the vehicle, 25/35 series.
Install the wheel hub and bearing (4) and splash shield to the 15-series steering knuckle.
Install the wheel hub and the 15-series bearing mounting bolts.
Install the wheel hub and bearing mounting bolts, the 25/35 series.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 180 N·m (133 lb ft).
Install the wheel speed sensor and brake hose mounting bracket bolt to the steering knuckle.
Tighten
Tighten the brake hose clip bolt to 12 N·m (106 lb in).
Install the rotor. Refer to Front Brake Rotor Replacement .
Install the tire and wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation .
Lower the vehicle.
#4
thanks for getting back to me so fast. i have noticed something else. if sit in different places in suburban the noise seems to move around. i know this sounds strange but it is a different howl in relationship as to where you are sitting in car. the noise is loudest at about 40-45 mph and goes away when you let off throttle and comes back when you step on gas. it makes no difference if you are in 4 wheel drive or not.
#5
if the noise is gone while coasting its not a wheel bearing, might try putting it up on jack stands and having someone run it while you listen to pinpoint where its from
#6
Administrator
bad wheel bearings will growl or grind as long as the wheel is spinning, though they will growl more under load... I agree getting it up on jack stands and giving each wheel a spin, that should help answer the front wheel bearing question...
If not wheel bearing the next items to consider are the rear end ( more of a howl) and axle bearings.....
If the rear axle bearings are going the seals are usually leaking too so check for wet rear brake area...
U-joints can growl also but you most likely would also hear some clunking..
then there is the transmission....
If not wheel bearing the next items to consider are the rear end ( more of a howl) and axle bearings.....
If the rear axle bearings are going the seals are usually leaking too so check for wet rear brake area...
U-joints can growl also but you most likely would also hear some clunking..
then there is the transmission....
Trending Topics
#8
up date on noise it seems to louder when i turn to left and then gets better when i straighten wheel out and gets a lot better when i turn to the right. i know there is a way to tell what side is bad by what i just said. i just have forgotten the answer.
hunterjo
hunterjo
#9
Administrator
Its the one being loaded the most, which should be the left one (drivers side)...but again if the wheel bearing is bad you should do both sides... if one side is that worn the other is not that far behind...