2013 Suburban LT 2WD 1500 - Losing power in left turn
#1
2013 Suburban LT 2WD 1500 - Losing power in left turn
This has been driving me crazy since I bought this SUV. The dealer says there's nothing wrong with it but it just doesn't seem right to me. Maybe someone in here has a clue.
This isn't a serious problem, just terribly nagging.
Scenario:
2013 Chevy Suburban LT 2WD 1500
I'm stopped in a left-turn lane either at the front or within 2-3 cars back. When I accelerate and begin the turn to the left the truck 'feels' like it's slowing down. I push down the throttle further but it feels like it is upshifting, continuously slowing down. There are times I feel it is so slow that I must slam down on the accelerator to force it to down shift or I'll press the TOW button to get it downshift and accelerate through the turn.
I'm pretty car/truck savvy but I have no experience working on modern, computer controlled transmissions. From previous driving experiences, my guesses are: u-joints, drive shaft, rear axle movement, too much weight/torque on longer half of the SUV body in the turn*, or loose engine mount(s). I tend to weigh more focus on the torque (engine to drive shaft to axle) since this happens in left turns and not right ones.
I've asked a few other people but got blank stares. Ideas?
-Lee
This isn't a serious problem, just terribly nagging.
Scenario:
2013 Chevy Suburban LT 2WD 1500
I'm stopped in a left-turn lane either at the front or within 2-3 cars back. When I accelerate and begin the turn to the left the truck 'feels' like it's slowing down. I push down the throttle further but it feels like it is upshifting, continuously slowing down. There are times I feel it is so slow that I must slam down on the accelerator to force it to down shift or I'll press the TOW button to get it downshift and accelerate through the turn.
I'm pretty car/truck savvy but I have no experience working on modern, computer controlled transmissions. From previous driving experiences, my guesses are: u-joints, drive shaft, rear axle movement, too much weight/torque on longer half of the SUV body in the turn*, or loose engine mount(s). I tend to weigh more focus on the torque (engine to drive shaft to axle) since this happens in left turns and not right ones.
I've asked a few other people but got blank stares. Ideas?
-Lee
#2
I have a 2011 Suburban LTZ with the 5.3L. I purchased it with 7,000 miles and I've never experienced this. I have 207,000 miles on it and have always performed all work on it myself. The only thing the dealer has ever done on it was the door handle recall. I've replaced bushings, ball joints including complete upper control arms as the ball joint is basically permanently joined. I rebuilt the trans at 202,000 miles due to a broken forward sprag. I replaced all bearings in the rear differential and rear axles at around 60,000 miles due to pitted outer pinion bearing and race. I replaced a broken driver side motor mount last year. U-Joints are still nice and tight. Rear shocks were replaced due to bad airbags along with pump.
There's nothing under there that should ever cause this to occur under normal conditions. There is a situation where this can happen in 4WD mode if equipped but you have 2WD so it doesn't apply.
The differential could be locking up but this would cause a shuddering, chattering or chirping noise/feeling typically.
One of the brakes may be binding. Check your hoses, parking brake cable and shoes. How's your gas mileage? I average about 15 city/highway mix.
Take it to an empty parking lot and simulate a left turn. Slip the tans into neutral when you feel the binding and see if there's any change. This will eliminate anything forward of the driveshaft.
I can't really think of anything else that would cause this.
There's nothing under there that should ever cause this to occur under normal conditions. There is a situation where this can happen in 4WD mode if equipped but you have 2WD so it doesn't apply.
The differential could be locking up but this would cause a shuddering, chattering or chirping noise/feeling typically.
One of the brakes may be binding. Check your hoses, parking brake cable and shoes. How's your gas mileage? I average about 15 city/highway mix.
Take it to an empty parking lot and simulate a left turn. Slip the tans into neutral when you feel the binding and see if there's any change. This will eliminate anything forward of the driveshaft.
I can't really think of anything else that would cause this.
Last edited by KChevy75; August 25th, 2015 at 12:29 AM.
#3
Can you reliably demonstrate it in a parking lot? that is weird.
If you manually select a gear, say 1 or 2, does it do the same thing?
Does the RPM go up and the truck doesn't move, or does the RPM stay low?
I'm trying to understand if it's the transmission or not.
Do any of the stability control lights flash, like the computer is saying no more throttle?
Can you disable traction control AND stability control, and test again? (on mine you press and HOLD to kill stability control).
If you manually select a gear, say 1 or 2, does it do the same thing?
Does the RPM go up and the truck doesn't move, or does the RPM stay low?
I'm trying to understand if it's the transmission or not.
Do any of the stability control lights flash, like the computer is saying no more throttle?
Can you disable traction control AND stability control, and test again? (on mine you press and HOLD to kill stability control).
#4
Sounds like your Kick down is misadjusted or its not settling into 1st.
If you have to put it into tow or floor it to engage the kick down.
I have had my G80 locker bind up before, but I get tons of tire chirp until it releases
If you have to put it into tow or floor it to engage the kick down.
I have had my G80 locker bind up before, but I get tons of tire chirp until it releases
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