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Tahoe & SuburbanThe power, space, and brutal towing ability make the Tahoe and its longer sibling, the Suburban, arguably the best full size SUV's on the market today.
Sometimes heat would come out driver vents when Mrs. Cusser was driving with AC on, not good in Arizona. So I took off the lower panel on passenger side (7mm socket) and disconnected the wiring harness to the actuator while it was in the "cool" position, so it will stay in the "cold" position.
Unlike the 2005 and the 1994 I mentioned in an earlier post, there was apparently no clicking sound this time. I saw on YouTube a couple of guys cleaning grease off contacts inside the actuator itself, so I may try that sometime. [/quote]
I'd forgotten to write down the part number on the actuator so today I attempted to take off the console right-side forward cover as shown in this video at the beginning
; unfortunately, I could not get the top part to unlatch. But I still was able to squeeze in and get the 3rd (driver-side) screw holding the lower panel off. Just like with my 200 Yukon, I had to grind a 5.5mm socket shorter to access the driver side actuator screw, what a poor design; after I got both actuator screws out, I still had to pry the actuator out, tight fit between the carpet and the "tab" of the HVAC blend door.
The part number was 52402588, exact same part as had gone bad on my 2005. I did take the actuator apart, didn't see any damaged gears, did wipe away some of the grease as I'd seen in other videos. I then plugged that into the harness (without bolting into place) and started the engine and worked the AC controls, and it did move through all its positions. So maybe in the fall I'll re-install that and see if it works OK; here in Arizona, we only need AC until end of November.
I did see somewhere where a guy cut down a 5.5mm nutsetter and then could use a 1/4" open end wrench on that for R&R of the actuator bolt on the driver side.
Last edited by Cusser; August 8th, 2023 at 12:21 PM.
I did take the actuator apart, didn't see any damaged gears, did wipe away some of the grease as I'd seen in other videos. I then plugged that into the harness (without bolting into place) and started the engine and worked the AC controls, and it did move through all its positions. So maybe in the fall I'll re-install that and see if it works OK; here in Arizona, we only need AC until end of November.
Today, I decided to bolt the cleaned-out actuator back in but leave the electrical harness disconnected for now, primarily so I wouldn't misplace the cleaned-out actuator. I did cut shorter a 5.5mm nutsetter to use if needed.
I actually found it easier to start the passenger side actuator screw and then start the driver side actuator screw by reaching around from the driver side because I could actually see it from that side; then I tightened each hex head screw with the ground-shorter 5.5mm socket and 1/4" ratchet. Of course I wasn't able to completely remove the driver side front console cover either it was attached to the passenger side one, it's GM !!!