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2013 Chevrolet Suburban
Platform: GMT 400, 800, 900

All Service Lights

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Old February 15th, 2020, 6:50 AM
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Hey guys, so I have a 2016 Chevy suburban LTZ. I've had it for a little over a year and the first month I bought it driving up to Wisconsin and in a snow storm I had multiple service engine lights come on. when I pulled into our hotel. I turned the vehicle off unloaded it got back in it and the lights never came on again. I brought it to a local mechanic when I got home and after hooking the computer up to it couldn't really find any issue, he said maybe some water in the air filter. Fast forward to this year around Thanksgiving, I was pulling it out of the garage and once again almost every service engine light came on (four-wheel drive, service stabilitrak, service trailer hitch interface, service power steering, etc). The power steering would not work either. Turn it off for a bit turn the back on nothing. The next day my wife is driving it and it started doing it again at a stop sign but this time it lost power to the gas pedal. I was able to unplug the battery plug it back in and it seemed to reset everything. I brought it to a local dealer at this point and I am 3 and 1/2 months into trying to figure it out and they cannot figure out anything. all they can tell by plugging the computer in is that all computer systems are losing connection with each other. They initially thought it was breaking control module so they replace that but it still does it. Has anybody had any issue even similar to this?
Old February 15th, 2020, 4:16 PM
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Low voltage can cause a myriad of issues. Start with the easy/cheap stuff....Have an auto parts store check the battery and charging system. Check your battery cables and grounds. My money is on a loose/bad battery cable.
Old February 15th, 2020, 5:21 PM
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one possibility is loss of communication on the CAN bus network. most likely wiring problem or module problem. Fault must be active for the tech to find it. If its not active, all tests will should no fault. they may have took a best guess shot...which is ok if warranty paying for it. if your paying bring it back and say they didn't fix it...and leave it with them until they do. They may have to run it for a while to get the fault to occur.
Old September 22nd, 2020, 7:19 PM
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Originally Posted by joshstauff
Hey guys, so I have a 2016 Chevy suburban LTZ. I've had it for a little over a year and the first month I bought it driving up to Wisconsin and in a snow storm I had multiple service engine lights come on. when I pulled into our hotel. I turned the vehicle off unloaded it got back in it and the lights never came on again. I brought it to a local mechanic when I got home and after hooking the computer up to it couldn't really find any issue, he said maybe some water in the air filter. Fast forward to this year around Thanksgiving, I was pulling it out of the garage and once again almost every service engine light came on (four-wheel drive, service stabilitrak, service trailer hitch interface, service power steering, etc). The power steering would not work either. Turn it off for a bit turn the back on nothing. The next day my wife is driving it and it started doing it again at a stop sign but this time it lost power to the gas pedal. I was able to unplug the battery plug it back in and it seemed to reset everything. I brought it to a local dealer at this point and I am 3 and 1/2 months into trying to figure it out and they cannot figure out anything. all they can tell by plugging the computer in is that all computer systems are losing connection with each other. They initially thought it was breaking control module so they replace that but it still does it. Has anybody had any issue even similar to this?
Sounds almost exactly like my 2017 Silverado. Service 4WD, Service Trailer Brakes, Service Stabilitrak, Steering Assist is Reduced messages all popped up out of the blue. Took it to the dealer and they replaced the main wiring harness coming off the battery. Fast forward two weeks and same thing only this time the truck wouldn't start and when it finally did the check engine light comes on and stays on. I left it sitting in the driveway all day and started it late this afternoon and Walla....no messages and no engine light. Back to the dealer it goes this coming Monday.
Old September 23rd, 2020, 8:38 AM
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Batteries are suspect #1 . I've had multiple batteries (3) with internal connector failures in the last 10 yrs. , just smacking battery or slamming hoods would make them reconnect and crank up.
Carry it into the store and they would pass load tests. Battery issues will set all kinds of crazy codes that come and go. I'm surprised they didn't change out the battery.
Old September 23rd, 2020, 7:01 PM
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Originally Posted by repairman54
Batteries are suspect #1 . I've had multiple batteries (3) with internal connector failures in the last 10 yrs. , just smacking battery or slamming hoods would make them reconnect and crank up.
Carry it into the store and they would pass load tests. Battery issues will set all kinds of crazy codes that come and go. I'm surprised they didn't change out the battery.
Question? I'm no mechanic or technician by any means but a faulty battery has been running through my mind with all this electronic and computer stuff on these trucks. So.. that being said...I drive only 4 miles to work and 4 miles back.. 10 minutes or less each way. With all this electronic stuff on this Silverado do you think the alternator is not having time to recharge the battery? I had the battery checked this afternoon at Advance Auto and they said the battery looks good but needs to be fully charged. Faulty alternator or not enough charging time? What do you think?
Old September 23rd, 2020, 9:21 PM
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without looking a the the dtc and having only your description of the problem...its pretty hard to say.
Ruling out a battery is a pretty easy 15 second check with a conductance tester. a bad battery would set multiple low voltage codes. a bad battery is not impossible but you think a tech would check the easy stuff first. I would not run out a buy a battery without having it fail a load test.
if you think the battery is good but under charged; next time the fault occurs...turn everything off and measure open circuit voltage across the battery 12.6 is fully charged 12.4 is 50%
Old September 1st, 2022, 1:38 AM
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Originally Posted by tech2
without looking a the the dtc and having only your description of the problem...its pretty hard to say.
Ruling out a battery is a pretty easy 15 second check with a conductance tester. a bad battery would set multiple low voltage codes. a bad battery is not impossible but you think a tech would check the easy stuff first. I would not run out a buy a battery without having it fail a load test.
if you think the battery is good but under charged; next time the fault occurs...turn everything off and measure open circuit voltage across the battery 12.6 is fully charged 12.4 is 50%
sorry to bring this back from the dead but im goin tru the sane problem what was ur fix!!! Plz help
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