Ok, i'm confused here.

I assume my 09 Tahoe LTZ has StabiliTrack... is that accurate?


On TireRack they list several types of pads for my tahoe, some say "Note: Front brake pads. Excludes models with Stabilitrak. "

which to me means now I have to be careful about what I put on this thing...

Both TR and advance auto show:

Akebono ProACT Ceramic Pads

Buy Akebono Ultra Premium Ceramic Disc Brake Pad Kit ACT1363 at Advance Auto Parts

it looks like the models w/stabilitrack are $3.00 less.



and of course, if we google "ACT1363" we get ones on ebay for like $67+ $8 shipping:

AKEBONO ACT1363 Brake Pad or Shoe, Front | eBay


so, has anyone come up with the difference between stabitrack and NON stabilitrack brakes on these toys?

I have 36,000 on it now, and have $50 off $100 order from advance auto I have to use by June... so I thought I'd get new front pads, and install when needed, but need to make sure I get the right ones...

thanks!

 

I am pretty sure stabitrack is standard on all Tahoe models - even the lowly LS...? either way I dont understand how a pad would be different for stabitrack or not.
I got the Duralast CMAX Ceramic pads from AutoZone for the front. $54 for the set. I am going to do all new pads and rotors here soon.
$355 total for 4 pads and 4 rotors with a $60 gift card and a $20 mail in rebate so not too bad.

 

All Tahoe's have stabilitrak

 

Sabr, I put Power Slot rotors and Hawk pads all around and find the stopping pwr a hell of a lot better the the OEM Chinese stuff it came with on my burb. Spent about $1200 but worth it. Did braided lines as well.

 

Hummm... that is a good point, are you going to do the rotors too?

looking at my last 3 reports from the dealer when I had servicing done, the previous 2 reports showed I have 4-6mm of pads but my last report shows I have 7mm! woohoo! my brakes are getting better with more miles....will have to check the tech names on those reports

I know that if your rotors are in good shape you can hang new pads but it just seems to make more since to go ahead and do new rotors...that and it will give you an opportunity to check out the wheel bearings/hubs...
I have not been into the new style wheel hubs so I don't know if the wheel bearings are serviceable or just remove and replace....

 

I seem to remember when going into 4 LO, the DIC () says Stabiltrak and Traction Control are off.

Why replace rotors if they are above minimum thickness and aren't warped?

 

I had warping at 20K and the dealer said that was normal. Bull. Said nothing they would do. They recommended not to cut the rotors down either.

I took matters into my own hands and changed everthyng out. 55K on the truck now(lots of city and hwy miles in traffic) and no issues. The metal IMO for the Power slots are better than the OEM. The truck stops better and minimal dust on wheels as compared to the OEM stuff.

 

The two main things that I've heard that will warp rotors (besides cheap metal in the first place) are over/uneven torquing of lug nuts and riding or repeated hard stops that overheat them.

 

I am starting to feel what feels like a some mild warpage when coming to slow stops... but I should be able to another 10-15k out of these pads which should put me at about 65-70k which is very decent, I suspect I will get about the same for the original tires as they are holding up well also...

 

for $1200 I hope it is a LOT better than OEM...but I agree if your rotors are warped turning them is only going to buy a little bit of time before they warp again.
that is way too much money to spend for stock size/style brakes IMO