Fivepak

I'm at a bit if a loss on what to do so figured I'd look to some Chevy owners for some insight. I currently drive a 2005 4runner v6 sport which I absolutely love. It has given me 100km of trouble free driving. The problem is we have a 23ft 4500 lb travel trailer which makes the T4R's short wheelbase and v6 a not so good tow vehicle. Also we have 3 kids so it would be nice to spread out on long road trips. So I've been in the market for a Suburban/Yukon XL . I found a good deal on a 2011 suburban lt 4x4 with 110km for $16k through a gm dealer. Here's where I'm confused and seeking input.

1. This burb has the 3.08 axle and no integrated brake controller, etc. I've read mixed reviews about this setup being a good tow vehicle. Moreso I realize it is rated for 5000lbs, which my trailer fails within but if I add an external tranny cooler and brake controller I should be good for 6-7klbs. But should I pass up this burb and wait for one with the 3.42 axle/k5l package? Supposedly 95‰ of burbs that are sold come with the 3.08 so it might be a challenge to find one with the 3.42, especially in the price range I'm looking at.

2. The dealership is offering an extended warranty for 1500$, which is their "superior" warranty that supposedly covers quite a bit. Should I get the warranty or just bank that for future repairs. How reliable are these trucks? Are the AFM woes that were present in the 07-09 5.3 still present in 2011models?

3. I keep reading that the pre—2007's are more reliable, tow better, and that the new ones "aren't built like they used to be" . Is this an accurate reflection of these trucks? An option is looking for a 10-12 yo Suburban for 4-5k that I use exclusively for towing. My concern is that with an older, high mileage truck our summer family road trips turn into situations where we never make our final destination due to car problems.

So there you have it.. I know lots of questions. Any advice or real life experience you can share would be most appreciated.
Oh and I should add I'm not mechanically inclined so I'm not able to do my own maintenance services.

Thanks

{tpc}

Hi there. Let me add my personal experience. I also own a TT that is 4400 lbs, but is 26 1/2 long (including the tongue). That number for mine at least is dry weight, before you load propane, batterys, any extra options, water, etc. If you read as many forums as i do it can all be rather confusing. Even though I have not, the best step would be to load up like your camping and have it weighed at a weigh station to get a true figure.

Ok so my experience is this. My wife has an envoy xl 6 cyl. I added an additional trans cooler to it. We have all the WD bars for the hitch and all that. It tows it, and our first real camping trip (300 mile drive) was interesting. Its sweet spot was about 50 -55 mph. I could get it up to 60-65, but it wasn't really happy doing it. It did do it however. That truck has 3.42 gears.

Personally, on the older trucks with the 4l60e trans, I think the sweet spot for gearing is 3.73. 4.10 is better from what I have read but fuel economy can suffer.

So the day after our trip, I traded in my car for a 2007 Tahoe LTZ with the 3.73 gears. Now I test drove a few of them before I decided on this one. Very hard decision because there was little to no service history besides recent history. So far (at least the first 1k miles) I don't see any problem with the AFM. Maybe I got lucky, maybe its been fixed before, maybe its about to die lol, but knock on wood, so far so good.

This weekend I pulled the trailer for the first time. Pretty much night and day difference. Would it be better if it was a brand new truck? Maybe. But I am no longer concerned that the truck can't handle it or is not happy about handling it. It handles it just fine.

The max tow rating on it covers what the max weight of the trailer can be when fully loaded (though I don't think we will ever get there, since I'm not a fan of towing with water). The trans runs a little hot on the e-way while pulling but I am adding a cooler soon, just waiting on parts. If it knocks 10-20 degrees off those temps I think it should be fine for most anything.

My only concern now is setup of the hitch. I had the dealer adjust it and they claim its correct, but figuring out how to adjust a truck with the autoride feature might be over their heads. I'm still going to work on that.

So back to your question. If it were me, I would probably stay away from the 3.08 ratio. But I honestly don't know about the newer trucks. I know they have a 6 speed trans, so maybe because of that the 3.08 is fine. I also know if you get the upgraded towing package that includes the additional trans cooler (make them show it to you on the rpo codes, and physically if possible - iirc it should be in addition to the one in the radiator), that it comes with the 3.42 gearing. I don't know if you can get 3.73 with the newer trucks or not, but I'm pretty sure the towing package forces you into the 3.42.

For the size, the burb or yukon xl vehicle length should be fine. Even a regular yukon or tahoe I think would be fine.

For the extended warranty. Unless its a GM sponsored warranty or part of a certified used deal, I would stay away. Get the name of it and google it. I almost got one for the tahoe until I saw all the problems people had trying to use it. They are very specific. Like say a part is making too much noise in the trans. Well until it fails, leaving you stranded, they won't fix it. If it grenades something else down the line as a result of failure and that part isn't covered, you will be paying for that uncovered part. The way I figured it, my main concern was the trans, and it would probably cost as much as the warranty to fix, so I'll spend the money then. I mean say it breaks and they won't cover it because of something else. Then you spent $1500 on it, plus whatever to fix it.

Just read you don't like your own maintenance too. That would point me towards the newest most warrantied (maybe still has manufactures or has GM certified) truck I could find. I think the newer ones may have come with a longer powertrain, and really thats what I would be concerned with, so look at that.

The cost may be a big pill to swallow, but in the long run you will be better off. With a used vehicle, I would also make sure that the brake fluid, transfer case fluid, trans fluid and filter, and both front and rear diff fluids have been serviced either recently or on schedule, and if not, make them do it before you buy it, since you will be using it for towing.

SabrToothSqrl

Does your trailer have electric brakes? if not the brake controller.. won't do anything.

100km is only 62 miles, I hope you've driven farther than that

If the reason you are replacing your current vehicle is towing capacity, I would keep hunting for the lower axle ratio one... you don't want to be in the same place you are now after spending all that $.

Fivepak

Thanks for the feedback. I think you have a good point in that if I'm going to be going through this trouble to change vehicle then might as well not compromise and get the 3.08 when all sign point to the 3.42 being a better tow vehicle.

But how about the reliability of the pre-2007's. I saw an 03 Yukon xl Denali with 130,000 miles for 4,000$. Truck looks in good shape, had new fuel pump. Is this a smart alternative to dropping 20k on a vehicle that I will be using a handful of times to tow? The Yukon has a 6.0l engine..

Thanks

intheburbs

The 3.08 rear is far below optimal for any type of towing. I would pass on a 3.08 rear.

I would give the 03 Denali a serious look. The 6.0 motor is a nice step up from the 5.3.

Look on the glove box RPO codes:

GU6 = 3.42
GT4 = 3.73
GT5 = 4.10

My 01 Burb (4.10 gears) has 190k, and I wouldn't hesitate to hook up my 6,000 TT, load up the family and drive across the country. My '08 2500 is just better.

Don't look at the straight tow ratings. On Burbs and Tahoes, you're going to exceed the rear axle weight rating long before you max out the trailer weight rating. My first TT was 4500-lbs, and my rear axle weight was ~3800-3900 when fully loaded (RAWR is 4,000). When I upgraded to a heavier trailer, I had to shift cargo in the trailer to keep the rear axle weight below 4,000. Still broke the rear end. Twice. Both times while on vacation. Try explaining to your disappointed family why you have to spend four days in Mitchell, SD (see the world's largest corn palace!), instead of Rushmore and Yellowstone.

Fivepak

[QUOTE=intheburbs;278828. Try explaining to your disappointed family why you have to spend four days in Mitchell, SD (see the world's largest corn palace!), instead of Rushmore and Yellowstone.[/QUOTE]

Aww that sucks and is definitely the type of situation I'm trying to avoid! I have little vacation time and funds so when we set out on a trip we want to make it to our destination. I'd hate to not make it because I'm towing with an old beater. My 05 4runner is subject to breaking down at any given point but the fact that I've been driving it for this long and it hasn't let me down gives me a sense of comfort I don't have with a 12 yo truck I know no history for.

Intheburbs, there are many that say the 3.08 mated to the 6 spa auto is as good as the old 3.73 mated to the 4 spd. What are your thoughts on that? I don't understand the mechanics behind all of that.

How's your 2500 for everyday driving? I hear they are rough as heck and super hard on the wallet. I found a decent deal on one (2007 4x4 with 90,000m for 9k). But I think it's too much more truck than I need for my travel trailer (which we're really happy with and don't plan on upgrading anytime in the near future)
.

fishing nut

I have a 2011 suburban 2500. It is my daily driver and logs 70 miles a day. The ride is not rough in fact better than the 09 f150 I traded in. It also tows better. I average about 14.5mpg.

intheburbs

The six speed definitely would help the 3.08 rear. I know that my 08 with the 3.73 and six speed, when compared to my 01 with the 4.10 and 4-speed, has a higher ratio in first (more power for accelerating), and a taller ratio in sixth (better mileage when not towing)- the best of both worlds.

My 2500 gets 13-14 around town, but my 01 gets 14-15, so not much financial impact for me.

Ride quality is about equal - my '01 has the premium smooth ride suspension with self-leveling shocks (ZW7). Right quality for both vehicles is outstanding - substantially better than an Expedition or Excursion.

A 2500 is a great tow vehicle, and I believe there's no such thing as overkill. Well, ok, maybe using an F650 to pull a popup trailer. The 2500s are rare compared to the 1500s, and since the last model year was 2013, that will help them keep their value. In 2008, only 5800 2500s were built, compared to 54,000 half-tons. KBB/NADA says my 08 with 120k is still worth over $20k.

Fivepak

Thanks again for the feedback. I'm going to go check out that 2007 2500 burb. For the year and mileage I think it's a good deal. It was a former Hydro truck so hopefully it's not too banged up.