A88

Hello all! I'm new to the forum and I'm having quite a few issues with my Suburban (I'm sticking to just one topic right now). I'm hoping to get some input from someone who knows more than I do.

Last January I had planned on getting my brakes changed, however, upon inspection I was told there was 75% left. They did mention they were cheap breaks, it didn't appear that any lubricant had been used, and the rotors should have been changed prior to the last brake change (I didn't own it during the last brake change). I was told when we brought it back in it would be in the $500 area for the job. We don't drive it often (partly because it's not our main vehicle and partly because of other issues it seems to be having) and the breaks have seemed fine until July when we went on a little trip (about 2 hours away) and did a lot of up and down driving for the last 30 - 45 minutes. On our way home I noticed the breaks felt like they were grinding a bit and once home we could tell it sounded like metal to metal. At that point we stopped driving it all together. We figured we would do it our selves but my mother-in-law has a credit line with a local tire shop that also does brake jobs and she asked that we take it there and she'll eat the difference in cost between if we had done it ourselves to the price the charge since she needs the cash. I wasn't quite sold on the idea since they wouldn't even tell me what brand product they would be using only that they were equivalent to original parts. I agreed to let them inspect it and give us a price quote. Prior to the inspection they had already stated that worst case scenario it would be $325 for front brakes and rotors and $325 for rear shoes and drums. So we had an idea of the cost but I didn't know if the back needed it. I have a 1997 Chevy Suburban 2500 7.4 liter/454 engine. After inspection they said we needed everything. New brake pads, rotors, and calipers in the front. New drums, shoes, and "possibly" wheel cylinders in the rear. Their grand total - $2000! How they went from $650 to $2000 by simply adding calipers and wheel cylinders to the list is beyond me. I think they thought since I'm a girl I would just say okay. That and because they knew my mother-in-law was paying with credit. I told them no thanks, we'll just do it ourselves. I quickly got the, "I was just talking to my manager" line. Apparently the were just discussing how they wanted to lower the price for me, right before I called to decline... lol. Anyway he said they could get it under $1500 but didn't actually have a definite price as he would have to talk to the manager. Funny since he said he had already did that. Has anyone had to pay such a high price to have their brakes done? I plan on reverting back to the DIY method. I've been looking into the EBC 3GD Series Rotors and the EBC Greenstuff 7000 Series Brake pads. What do you guys think? Any other options that are a better value (good quality for the money)? Also I'm unsure of what brand to go with as far as calipers, shoes, drums, and wheel cylinders. Anyone have good experiences with any particular brands or any input? This isn't our main vehicle and, when drivable, is only driven twice a week if that. We don't need the highest quality but I'm looking for something that is still good quality, and can hold up to the 2500 Suburban without constantly needing to be replaced. Input and advice is greatly appreciated!! Thanks!!

RichC10

Good for you for DIY.
You won't go wrong with NAPA parts. I would suggest you take the rotors and drums to your local auto parts store, they may be able to resurface them. You really don't have to go overboard, in my experience, any brand they sell at a reputable auto parts store will give you good service.

A88

Thanks RichC10,

I've read others also like NAPA parts. Instead of resurfacing I'd probably just buy new though as there isn't much of a difference in price. I've read conflicting opinions on parts at auto part chain stores. So far I'd probably stay away from AutoZone brake products (although I did use them as a guide to about how much I would be spending in parts, give or take). I used the higher priced items which put me in the $600 range. I went to an online website that sold EBC brakes and rotors and AC Delco everything else. I'd be looking at $800-$1000 in parts depending on a few items and which one I ended up going with. At that point I decided to call the shop that did my brake inspection last January since they were honest. The guy couldn't believe they told me $2000 at the other place or that they jumped from $2000 to $1350. Anyway, he told me he really doesn't think it's going to need new calipers but quoted me with and without them. $884 plus tax with calipers and $610 plus tax without. They also use Raybestos products whereas the other company (the guy finally told me) would be using Centric. I've read that Raybestos is higher quality but there aren't many reviews that I could find. I'm hoping that I don't need calipers at all. That would knock the price down a bit. Either way it would be around the same price as if I buy the EBC's and AC Delco's but with labor included. So I'm considering going the labor included route. Do you think there would be much of a difference in quality? Would I notice a difference when driving? Or with the time frame until I need new ones? Like I said it's only driven a couple of times a week if that so all in all it might be worth it to just get it done at the shop...?

A88

Errr... my father-in-law said just DIY. He has all the tools and offered to help. But he also wants me to just go with AutoZone product though because of their lifetime warranty. So many conflicting opinions on the best route . He also said that if my calipers aren't leaking oil they're fine... any truth to that? I trust his opinion to an extent, he's just a bit of a redneck. I don't want to pick the cheap stuff just because that's what he would pick. He seems to feel that it's all in "how you drive" and brand doesn't matter. Although I believe there's some truth to that I just don't think that's entirely true. Anybody??

SWHouston

I'd go with your FIL !

The only thing that really can go wrong with Clappers, is Cups and the Retainer Bolts/Slide Pins. Both can be replaced. Also, unless your Rotors are really bad, a mild turn on them is sufficient. They don't have to be absolutely perfect to work well.

I have never used Pads or Shoes which are highly resistant to wear. Many of the higher dollar types take a great toll on your Rotors/Drums. My approach is use regular duty Shoes/Pads, and just change them more frequently. Even if your driving requires a change every two years or so, you have very good opportunities to do inspections, and deal with things before they get too bad.

If/when you hear "grinding" or other "scraping" noises when the breaks are applied, there's something obviously wrong, and your FIL will be able to see and deal with that. Doing Breaks is just not that complicated, and with DIY, NO WHERE near the cost of what you were quoted.

A88

Thank you SWHouston!! That makes me feel much more comfortable going that route. He said the same about choosing brakes that don't wear down your rotors and drums. I didn't realize the higher priced one's tend to do that. Also great to know that if my calipers need anything I can just replace a few parts and not the entire thing. This is the only time I've ever had a vehicle's brakes sound like they're metal to metal and unfortunately we were away from home when it started. I didn't realize all of the descending would take such an extreme toll on them but I also don't know how much was left prior to the trip. It's probably something I should have checked. Any way I feel much more confident going the cheaper route, thank you!! I'm actually kind of excited to get under there and start changing them out. It will be my first brake job, with help of course.

SWHouston

I'm sure you'll do great, and get a good job done !

One thing I'll recommend is...
That before starting, take a good look at the parts and their placement.
Try to visualize what happens when you press the Petal. Your FIL can step on the Petal while you watch the Clappers close on the Rotors, and with caution, do the same when you pull the Drums off of the Rear.

Seeing this first hand, is very valuable in your understanding of Breaks, and other systems. Just take your time, and understand why each step is important.

tech2

imo if you have gone steel on steel with the rotors and pads...don't machine the rotors, replace them. the service life of a rotors measures 0.0060" from new to discard. Its not cost effective to machine a badly rusted or scored rotor that will be near the end of its service life when your done refinishing it.

if the calipers pistons push back and are not leaking; they don't need replacement.

unfortunately, brake parts for a 2500 series truck are expensive. $2000 is definitely overpriced.

A88

Thanks SWHouston! Definitely will do.

Thanks for the feedback tech2. If the rotors are in a condition to warrant machining I will definitely be replacing them. You're right, I agree it is not cost effective. Especially when new one's are not much more than the cost to machine them.

Thanks for the calipers tip!

wrenchman78

A88, as far as if no leaks they are good theory is partly correct you certainly don't want leaks but there are other problems with calipers and don't forget your brake hoses they tend to collapse the inner liner and it acts like a check valve. The fluid will push through and then the hose will not let the fluid back out holding you brakes slightly on wearing the pads and rotors prematurely.
As far as parts go the Duralast gold series at Autozone are good quality and your father in law is correct in that the lifetime warranty is nice. As a dealership technician I would be remiss not to push for factory OEM parts from a reputable GM dealer. At any rate good luck there is nothing more satisfying than doing something for yourself.