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I'm trying to remove (not get rid of) the evap canister on my 2005 suburban 2500 8.1L rig located between the spare and the bumper. I found one of the bolts but can't figure out what is retaining it at the frame. Anyone know exactly how this works?
I just went through this. If this is the one you are replacing. The bolt on mine was so rusted I didn't try to put the new bracket on. The new canister and solenoid clipped onto the old bracket. Lock tab on the side of the canister, bolt and tab at the top of the mounting bracket.
This is usually mounted just behind the fuel tank, but this one is located on the right rear bumper frame. Trying to figure out how to get off as there is some kind of attachment point behind it that I can't see or feel....
Last edited by Th3Glu3; April 30th, 2021 at 2:43 PM.
Reason: Spelling
I just did one of these today on a 2007 Chevrolet Suburban 2500 (GMT-900) and it was not awesome. This post got me part of the way, thank you! Message #2 should be ignored because it is different problem (evap solenoid) vs this thread being about removing the evap canister.
I did the following getting the first "easy" bolt off referred to above.
I located the two nuts on the top of the frame rail inline with the evap canister. See "#2" in the annotated image.
I ended up switching between a stubby and normal-sized 10mm box wrench to get the nuts off on top of the frame rail were number "2" points to in the annotated image. This took patience and time to get both nuts off. At my best it was about 90 degrees of turn on the one bolt and about 45 degrees of turn on the other and the wrench would jump off often. This took a LONG time. It is one of those things where you wonder why its designed like this...
I took off the evap solenoid to help me get the box out in step 5 as it helps get the box out
Once the nuts are off the bracket will slide towards the back of the car but will get wedged.
I ended up messing with it until bracket came partially off the box because it was now loose.
Something I wish I would have tried, to make the whole process easier, is using a mallet to try and free the old evap canister from the bracket by popping it off the bracket. The bracket clamps a 1/4 inch lip on the top of the plastic box. With sufficient pressure applied perfectly parallel to the ground towards the front of the car the evap canister might come off the bracket (see #1 in the annotated image where I might try to stick a small pry-bar or screw-driver to bang with the mallet)) . If it did come loose, the bolts can now be accessed with both hands making life WAY easier and one would not have to wiggle the box out. The worst case scenario here is one breaks the old canister and a bunch of activated carbon needs to be vacuumed/swept.
Hope this helps someone stumbling through here with the same problem.
This problem is not well served by YouTube and other forums because the placement of the evap canisters are unique to the 2500 with its inline auxiliary tank setup.
Last edited by ridgway; July 26th, 2022 at 11:20 AM.
As promised, progress today! I had the two frame rail nuts off. In th end, I put a 1/2" breaker bar across the top from the solenoid end to the back of the unit. By putting all my weight on the breaker bar the bracket on the back released.
My question is now if I damaged the lines attached to the evap canister when it dropped. I have not yet figured out how to detach the lines from the canister. Tips would be appreciated.
April 29th, 2021, 6:30 PM
Evap canister removal - rear
