Indeed they do I'm excited to get one pretty much JUST for this reason.
YES, I CAN GET 3 YORKIES, 1 LAB, 1 PIT AND A CHIHUAHUA IN MINE.
ACTUALLY I COULD GET THREE MORE DOGS IN IT, IF I LEFT THE CHIHUAHUA BEHIND. SHE'S SO BOSSY.

They do but at the expense of a TON of space which is definitely needed. A LOT of space is wasted.
OK, THAT'S COOL, THERE IS A LOT OF SPACE USED FOR THEIR NORMAL PUT-UP POSITIONS.

Even if it is a 60/40 split? Can't I just remove the 40 side and keep the 60? Doooh, I hope I can!
40/60'S ARE KINDA RARE, IF YOU GET A BENCH, YOU CAN JUST MAKE A SEPARATE SEAT AND FOLD IT UP OUT OF THE WAY TO RECOVER YOUR FLOOR SPACE.
ie: FOLD DOWN BACK, FOLD UP AGAINST SIDEWALL. THAT'LL GIVE YOU ALMOST ALL YOUR FLOORSPACE BACK.

That's a great idea! I was thinking of just using a bipole switch, but on second though.
THAT'S WHAT AN ISOLATOR DOES, TOTALY SEPARATES YOUR CRANK AND HOUSE BATTERIES, AND AUTOMATICALLY CONNECTS THE HOUSE' FOR CHARGING WHEN YOU CRANK UP. THIS WAY YOUR CRANK IS TOTALLY PROTECTED AND AVAILABLE.

I'm going to research more about adding a solar panel.
ROOF OK WITH A TILT AND PIVOT. SPNLS DON'T WORK ALL THAT WELL UNLESS YOU HAVE THEM POINTED VERY DIRECTLY AT SUN.
BUT ON THE SIDES OF YOUR RIDE...?
ACTUALLY, I'D CONNECT THE SPNLS TO THE CRANK SYSTEM, AT 14.5 VDC/2 AMP SUPPLY WITH TAPER.


You mentioned an Inverter...
You could just get all 12vdc stuff (includes most Laptops) and simplify things.

 

Yes it does, but the amount it increases is inconsequential. The sheer force of the lugnuts is in even extreme conditions able to support twice the weight of the suburban with a lot more leverage. That is why I said lug nut sheering is inconsequential. But, let's say you were worried about it. There are lug nuts you can buy that have 15% titanium as an alloy that are around 200% more sheer resistant. That might not be a bad idea...

The suspension wouldn't be affected in any fashion, even if the wheel distance a mile long, because the suspension sits right inside of the tire boot. The suspension shares a T intersection, which makes lever force non-existent.

From an engineering standpoint, the only impact on the suspension would be if the actual wheel distance were a mile long, and then you'd have to factor in rigidity and bounce into the material composition of the involved components in that aforementioned T joint.

As for why I worry about rolling over, it is simply because the risk of death due to rollovers is from the Suburban vs. just about any other normal car is 300% more according to the NHTSA. That is quite a bit.

People think the Suburban is a super safe care. Front impacts? Hell yea. Side impacts? Yup. Rear? God yes. Rollovers? Kiss your *** goodbye.

So if I can cut that 300% increase of death, down to around 170-ish% by adding 2" wheel extenders, then I'm gonna do it

 

When you say lug nuts, are you referring to the nuts or the bolts?

 

Look for my replay next to each.

• I need to the SUV to be long (both are ~220inch length) - Same Truck, what year you looking for? 2007-2013 or earlier?
• I need to remove the whole 2nd row seat - I did this last summer and used my Burb as an RV. Put a cot down, curtains, 2nd battery A/C Inverter, etc.
• I need to remove all but 1 (or half if bench) of the 3rd row seats - Easy, they all do it.
• Note: I won't be using the seats, so whatever is cheapest knowing this would be nice. - Ideally captain chairs would be more expensive.
• Note #2: The seats are being removed just to provide a nice, big space, for my dog to hang out, to put a little table and work from the sole seat left in the far back, and to roadtrip and have spot to sleep.
• Note #3: I would probably remove any seat brackets from the 2nd row, and the 3rd row unused one. I would be custom fitting carpet over it all as well. - There are no brackets on my 2008, just carpet covered plastic pieces that cover the bolts in the floor. I put mine back after removing 2nd row seats.
• Must have 4x4 - harder to find 2 wheel drive, so easy.
• 5.3L V8 (I need mpg over towing)
• I'd like the floor to be as low as possible, as in, not a lot of chair mounting crap if I can. Probably not, just tossing this in.
• I will be adding either 1.5" or 2.0" wheel spacers as well as replacing front bumper with a bumper/grill guard as well as a minor lift. North snow/offroad helping stuff. Tires would be a mix between handling dirt/snow light offroad with a lot of road use (75% street highway 25% offroad) - Dumb IMHO
• Is the Z71 really worth it?, I have LTZ and I love the wide tires on sand. Very few people actually go "off-road", dirt roads don't count.
• Front seats being ventilated would be nice - You fart a lot?

Some other thoughts

• Is there an aftermarket gas tank that can be swapped that is 40-60 gallons?
• Has anybody added a 2nd or 3rd battery and a larger alternator
• I am planning to wire 6awg from the battery (or battery bank, see above) to the back w/a 750w-1000w inverter. Any suggestions on a good, quiet inverter? - I use a 600w(Peak 1000w). I've had it bridged running on two separate 12v Accessory plugs (far rear and 2nd row console, 20 Amp each! = 40 Amps total)
• Has anybody ever put a solar panel on the roof? If so, feedback? - solar panels are not worth your time, I looked into it. Better bringing a battery charger and hooking up at random camp sites with power.

Lastly, for a budget around $20k-ish for the initial purchase, is there any idea what model / year / mileage I could get? Any ideas where to buy from?
- I got my 2008 LTZ burb for $18,000 with 140k on it. Burns about 1 quart every 2000 miles. AFM FTW, not...Many thanks in advance!!![/QUOTE]

 

Both essentially, though when it comes to sheer force, it would be the bolt. When you are looking at failure due to sheer force, the threading on the nut, nor the bolt itself, come into play. It is the actual mass of the bolt itself being sheered. The threading rarely relates to sheering, rather, threading relates to things such as integrity during vibrations as well as temperature fluctuation.

 

Hey bird, thanks for the response!

>> Same Truck, what year you looking for? 2007-2013 or earlier?

I believe 2007 is the new model year, so I was thinking 2008 and above. Prefer 2010 due to ventilated seats.

>> I need to remove the whole 2nd row seat - I did this last summer and used my Burb as an RV. Put a cot down, curtains, 2nd battery A/C Inverter, etc.

Oh now that's interesting! I'd love if you created a new post detailing what you did, some pictures, ideas, afterthoughts, things you'd do different, etc!!!!! DO IT!

>> - There are no brackets on my 2008, just carpet covered

Does that mean the floor is raised a couple inches then? Or is it recessed into the underbody area?

>> (75% street highway 25% offroad) - Dumb IMHO

Why dumb? Essentially looking for tires that have lots of deep tread that also don't sound horrible on flat roads. There has to be some middle ground...

>> I have LTZ and I love the wide tires on sand. Very few people actually go "off-road", dirt roads don't count.

I consider off-road any material that is not man-made (eg, tarmack, concrete, brick). Dirt, for example, can grove, have pits due to rain, branches, etc.

>> Front seats being ventilated would be nice - You fart a lot?

Haha, I wonder if that would help spread the joy?? Naw, the ventilated seats helps a lot with sweat wicking, as well as keeping clothing un-wrinkled.

I think I'd rather spend more for a slightly newer model that has no issues, so maybe 20k isn't enough. I could bump it to 25k, hmmm

 

Hard to tell just what you mean by that. When you start separating tread to "cleat" the tread, it starts getting noisy and vibrates. Why don't you select a Tire(s) you think you may like, and I'll comment on it.

 

Good idea!

What about these Goodyear Wrangler AT Adventure Kevlar? - http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....1&autoModClar=

 

Ok, but you gave a link to the 275/55R/20, that may not be the exact size you'll need but as far as the tread pattern, I see...

Fair Wet Traction,
Somewhat noisy,
Moderate OTR,
Moderate Ice,
Fair Snow.
Fair life expectancy.

This Tread Pattern is Non-Directional, and All Season (not that I believe there is such a thing), and not exactly slanted toward the proportions you previously stated. That being that the majority of your use would be Hi-Way. Given that, I don't think this Tread Pattern is going to make you very happy.

 

Okay I can clearly see you know probably 100x more than me about tires, and probably wheels.

I'm looking for something like:

75% Highway
--> 50% time is snow, 25% time heavy rain, 25% time smooth (That's midwest for ya!)
25% Mild offroad
--> Dirt paths, muddy paths

From a cosmetic standpoint, I like tires that are a little bigger than stock, but not huge. Budget-wise I have around 200 per tire, which is pretty decent. I'd also consider new wheels/rims so the tire size could fluctuate. I'm a big fan of those anthracite colored wheels.