View Poll Results: Should I sell my 1996 Sub 4x4 or Keep it?
Sell It!!
2
25.00%
Keep it and fix everything.
6
75.00%
Voters: 8. You may not vote on this poll
Keep or Sale?
#1
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Keep or Sale?
So, a few weeks ago I bought this 1996 Suburban 4x4 for $1700 on Craigslist. All in all, right now, I have about $2100 into it including registration.
The cons:
Needs new front rotors
Needs new front pads
Needs upper bushings
Needs new front grill (mounting tabs broken)
Needs floors shampooed
Not sure if A/C is going to work (no freon in it currently)
Needs tires
Needs muffler that goes out the back, not dump right before rear axle
In-dash cup holder broken off
Only one speaker works
Needs Pitman arm
Needs Idler arm?
Needs Multiswitch at some point
Needs front two windows re-tinted
ABS light is on
Service engine soon light is on.
Should I keep it and fix it, or sell it and try to make some money out of it and possibly by another one in better shape?
The cons:
Needs new front rotors
Needs new front pads
Needs upper bushings
Needs new front grill (mounting tabs broken)
Needs floors shampooed
Not sure if A/C is going to work (no freon in it currently)
Needs tires
Needs muffler that goes out the back, not dump right before rear axle
In-dash cup holder broken off
Only one speaker works
Needs Pitman arm
Needs Idler arm?
Needs Multiswitch at some point
Needs front two windows re-tinted
ABS light is on
Service engine soon light is on.
Should I keep it and fix it, or sell it and try to make some money out of it and possibly by another one in better shape?
#2
Well you dove into it so you might as well finish it off. If you sell it are you going to have to buy something else?
As long as you can do that work yourself I say keep it. If you are paying labor for that stuff, ditch it.
As long as you can do that work yourself I say keep it. If you are paying labor for that stuff, ditch it.
#4
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Autozone Prices:
Pitman Arm $25.99
Idle Arm $43.99
Front Rotors $19.99 x 2
Front Pads $34.99
Energy Suspension Bushing Kit $30 (on Ebay)
Turn Signal Switch (Multiswitch) $150
Tires $450-500
Grille $? (just want stock black grill)
Freon $?
Pitman Arm $25.99
Idle Arm $43.99
Front Rotors $19.99 x 2
Front Pads $34.99
Energy Suspension Bushing Kit $30 (on Ebay)
Turn Signal Switch (Multiswitch) $150
Tires $450-500
Grille $? (just want stock black grill)
Freon $?
#6
runnin into kinda the same thing pastork. i say tho, if the foundation is solid, roll with it. the hassle of trying to sell it, negotiating price, waiting for no shows. it's frustrating, but sounds like you've got alot done, not much left. little by little, do what you can.
#7
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$775 for parts, and that's not including whatever is wrong with the A/C. Auto Zone says that I have a lean bank left and right. Got to find a vacuum diagram to see if I am missing some vacuum lines. Already changed the fuel filter.
Then there is the ABS light and the cost to fix whatever that issue is.
I could possibly sell it on Craigslist for $2500-3000 and pocket some cash, and then buy another one possibly in better shape. But then I may run the risk of buying something that the tranny or motor goes out on and then I'm stuck. It's kinda like gambling, you just never know how the cards are going to play.
Then there is the ABS light and the cost to fix whatever that issue is.
I could possibly sell it on Craigslist for $2500-3000 and pocket some cash, and then buy another one possibly in better shape. But then I may run the risk of buying something that the tranny or motor goes out on and then I'm stuck. It's kinda like gambling, you just never know how the cards are going to play.
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#8
CF Junior Member
How many miles are on the chassis, engine and transmission?
If you are looking at a replacement vehicle of similar vintage, chances are it will require many of the same repairs. Concerning tires, I think you will need to put tires on any vehicle you buy in this price range. That being said, you do have quite the list to go through, but if you fix everything, you have a good idea what you will NOT have to fix over the next few years.
If I were in your situation, I would install the needed safety parts and drive the truck for a month or so. See how it holds up and decide from there. Also, get a quote on fixing the AC so you know what you are dealing with. I would a assume that being in Texas, no AC is a dealbreaker.
If you are looking at a replacement vehicle of similar vintage, chances are it will require many of the same repairs. Concerning tires, I think you will need to put tires on any vehicle you buy in this price range. That being said, you do have quite the list to go through, but if you fix everything, you have a good idea what you will NOT have to fix over the next few years.
If I were in your situation, I would install the needed safety parts and drive the truck for a month or so. See how it holds up and decide from there. Also, get a quote on fixing the AC so you know what you are dealing with. I would a assume that being in Texas, no AC is a dealbreaker.
#9
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Miles? The Odometer shows 157K, but it also doesn't work, and who knows when it stopped working, or if it is even the original gauge cluster.
I have a friend or two that are mechanics, so the A/C shouldn't be a big issue. The liar that I bough it from told me that he had just changed the compressor and it just needs freon. The heater controls didn't work, so I'm not sure how he knew the A/C needed to be worked on. I bought a used Heater control (for $35) and now the vents and heat work, just need to fill the A/C with freon and see if it holds and if the compressor works.
I agree that with any truck this age, there is going to be work. I just don't want to dump a fortune into a truck that's not worth it. It does run strong once you get going, but stumbles off the line a little (could be the whole vacuum issue)
Now that I have worked on it, I don't know if I want to rid it. Kinda like a bond between me and the truck, and I can SEE the potential it has, just going to take some blood, sweat and tears (along with some cash) to make it a great truck.
I have a friend or two that are mechanics, so the A/C shouldn't be a big issue. The liar that I bough it from told me that he had just changed the compressor and it just needs freon. The heater controls didn't work, so I'm not sure how he knew the A/C needed to be worked on. I bought a used Heater control (for $35) and now the vents and heat work, just need to fill the A/C with freon and see if it holds and if the compressor works.
I agree that with any truck this age, there is going to be work. I just don't want to dump a fortune into a truck that's not worth it. It does run strong once you get going, but stumbles off the line a little (could be the whole vacuum issue)
Now that I have worked on it, I don't know if I want to rid it. Kinda like a bond between me and the truck, and I can SEE the potential it has, just going to take some blood, sweat and tears (along with some cash) to make it a great truck.
#10
i agree, fix the main driveability issues, work on the rest as you go. yes, the stumble off the line could definetely be the vacuum line issue. run a compression check on all cylinders. numbers should all be within 10% of each other. this will tell you alot about the motor. get all the vacuum lines hooked up, the computer reads all this. it won't necessarily trip a code, but might if it's too far off. a vacuum leak anywhere will definetely cause a lean running condition. keep at it, an soon you may have a rig that runs great!!