TWard

Since I seafoamed my vehicle and changed the oil/filter, the oil pressure has been solid. Checked the level this morning and it's right where it should be, albeit a touch dirty.

In2Pro, the AC problem mentioned in an earlier post was no refrigerant in the system because the rear AC lines were corroded out. Cut and plugged the rear lines, recharged the system and it's cooling properly again.

I'll be putting my Suburban down for the winter at the end of the month and will change the oil before that. But I'll seafoam the crank case again just before changing it to give it another "wash". Can't hurt, and it's all getting drained out and replaced anyway.

TWard

4x4tx, sounds like you have more than one issue. You had a clean dip stick, so you may have an oil consumption or leakage issue. And with 5 new qts of oil in your system and no oil pressure, you may have a sensor issue, which could be the senor, the screen, or several other issues.

4x4tx

I have 83K on it....The gauge said zero when I got the message and when I checked the stick I didn't see any oil on it..I assumed it was empty but it was not..it may have been low which caused the stick to be dry but I added too much oil. I went got my oil changed at lunch after finding the oil level was way too high...I just panicked after getting the error message saying low oil pressure, seeing the gauge say 0, and then finding the stick dry.

73shark

I take it you added oil without checking the dipstick as you did so. The dipstick only shows about 1 quart low. So if your dipstick was dry, you may have been only two quarts low.

Now you need to find out why the pressure gauge read 0.

4x4tx

yes I didn't check it after adding each qt like I should have. In my mind with gauge reading zero and no oil on the stick I was thinking it was dry.....I only added 5 qt knowing it holds 6qt but going forward I will know that 2 qt should be enough...

As for the gauge, I have to think the oil pressure sensor or sending unit had a malfunction...probably a matter of time before it does it again

Ssaunders

I’m having the same problem what did you fix on yours?

TWard

Saw a new posting to this thread and thought I'd give an update on my oil pressure issue. I ran my 07 the 5+ years after my original post without incident. I stopped running Seafoam through the crank case after the second oil change as the pressure reading problem never reoccurred. I changed oil before putting the truck in storage in November, and ran the vehicle about 6000 miles per season (May-Nov).

This past year I blew the engine on the way to town. One of the lifters starting spinning after a hard downshift to pass another vehicle and the vehicle started backfiring and sputtering. Good thing I was only a couple of miles from my mechanic. They pulled the motor apart until they found the issue, the lifter, and we discussed the options. The cam was worn to a nubbins, but the rest of the engine looked ok......for a vehicle that had 150K+ miles on it. They recommended having the block cleaned up, new this, new that. It was about 800-1000 more for a new crate engine with a 3 year 100K warranty. We put the new engine in with a new water pump, idler pulley's and whatever else was convenient to replace while we had the thing torn apart. $6200 for the engine and work, and for good measure I put on new tires.

What struck me about the experience is how badly the cam was worn. The mechanic shared that on the original AFM engine design, when the vehicle drops 4 cylinders while cruising, that the original design didn't account for properly lubricating some of the engine components. The crate engine is supposed to be devoid of all the past plagues of AFM engines. We'll see. But for $6200, I have a new power plant and hopefully a few years before something else major needs a fix.

BTW- for all of you thinking 6K is a bundle to put into an 07: All I had to do was some quick math on the depreciation of a new Burb over the 3 year warranty of the new engine (25-30K) and the decision was easy.