Pin 30 on my fuel pump relay switch continues to get heated and is melting. It is also causing melting to the connection site in the under hood fuse/relay panel. I found a picture online that is similar to mine. I can post one of mine tomorrow but this is basically what's happening, however, I don't believe mine is quite as melted as the one in this picture.

I've read that it is most likely due to a failing fuel pump that's pulling too much current.

But have also read

1. To check for a possible faulty ground on 87a. The reason being that 30 powers the fuel pump to start the engine but once the engine is running the oil pressure switch powers the pump. Correct me at any point if this information incorrect as this is just information that I've found online. I read that 30 shares the fuel pump connection with the oil pressure switch so power goes back to pin 30. I also read that you should be able to remove the relay switch once the vehicle is running and it should continue to run? I haven't tried this but will tomorrow. If it does or doesn't continue to run what does that prove? I'm assuming that it won't run though because every time the relay becomes heated enough the truck will die while running. As soon as we put a new relay in it starts right up and we're good to go until that relay eventually becomes too heated. Which has become more frequent and I'm ready to fix it without causing anymore damage.

2. That if the connector isn't holding the terminal from the relay switch tight enough it could heat up?? If gently wiggling it is a means of proving that it's loose or not it definitely is looser than the other relays next to it ...?

Either way I figure it will need to be replaced...

So far I've read I need to check the current draw on the fuel pump and the fuel pressure (although will this be affected since it still continues to run?). Anything else that this could be or things I need to check??

Thanks!!

 

Sorry I didn't mention my vehicle in this post. I'll have to figure out how to put it in my signature or something.

It's a 1997 Chevy Suburban 2500 7.4L/454.

 

So here's the picture of my fuel pump relay switch connector. (It's an attachment).

It is pretty melted itself and there is definitely a bigger gap between the metal pieces than the others. It also seems to be seated higher than the other slots (possibly because it's missing the plastic side strips so it's not being held down?).

Does the entire fuse/relay block need to be replaced? Is it possible to have re-routed to the empty slot?

Anyone know if the connector (gray box) just to the left of the fuel relay one (on the outside of the fuse/relay panel) is the gray cable and pigtail from the fuel pump? I'm assuming so because of it's location to the relay switch but I'm just learning all of this. I did open that up to see if there was any signs of overheating/melting and there was none. Not sure if that means anything.

I also pulled the fuel relay switch out with the Suburban running and it did cause it to die.

Any ideas or input?

 

Sorry guys I accidently inserted the original picture. Here is mine.

 

Your problem is bad connector. The bad connection is causing the extra heat. Replace the connector (both sides).

 

Thanks so much 73Shark!!

I've been searching the internet for information on the proper way to replace the connector to no avail. Forgive me if this is common knowledge amongst the board. I'm just learning .

So I'm just going to purchase a subscription through Chilton DIY. They have a step by step for replacing the connector. Plus I've read a lot of other perks that come with a subscription through them.

Anyone know where to purchase the new connector? I called local shops: AutoZone, O'reilly's, etc.. They all acted like they didn't know what I was talking about...

 

Sorry, I didn't realize it was that type of connector. I thought it was in a harness. My bad.

You can try to rebend the terminals so they grip tightly and don't heat up due to a high resistance connection.

 

Okay. Do you think it will be an issue that it's not seated as snuggly as the other terminals? Because the plastic above has melted away it caused it to move higher up than the others (or at least that's why I think it's up higher).

 

Did u change connector? I have same exact problem

 

typically this is caused from intermitent pin contact....current arc's and melts plastic. New pins and connector should fix it. I like to add di-electric grease to the new connector. I also like to measure the load on the circuit afterwards to make sure the load(in your case fuel pump) isn't causing a high current draw. Most fuel pumps are around 8 - 10 amps when running.