Paint pros, I have a couple questions regarding the "Shade Tree" painting of a 1997 Suburban K1500. Our suburban has the paint issue common for these 9th gen trucks. Fortunately, the problem is mostly on roof with the remainder on the very tops of the doors.

I've dry sanded the truck a bit. Some spots I've reached bare metal. In other spots the best I can do in a timely manner is to get to primer. Is it acceptable to sand down to factory primer to begin my new coats of primer? Or, do I have to take preparation down to bare metal before priming/painting?

I'm trying to keep cost of this rattle-can paint job low. To accomplish that, I didn't buy any cans of clear-coat. Is this a wise idea or am I being cheap instead of frugal?

 

As long as you get all the rust out and feather the edges you do not need go to bare primer.

 

You can keep the factory primer intact as long as you have a good surface to work with. When repainting you are always better off painting over good paint or primer than bare metal because the original finish is already adhering to the metal. New primer *should* stick well to bare metal but at times you run into problems with adhesion.

As for your 'spray bomb', use automotive quality primer either from a paint store or automotive supply store. Don't use Rustoleum or other primers as they may work or may not. You may end up with a chemical reaction between primers and paint. Make sure that your surface is clean and sanded properly so the primer bonds. I recommend using nothing finer than 400 grit wet/dry and I personally use 320 grit dry. You get good surface 'scratching' for the primer to hold onto without leaving much in the way of sanding lines. If you aren't going to repaint right away you can use a primer/sealer to help prevent the surface from rusting until you can paint. Primer/surfacers will absorb moisture and allow that moisture to seep into the coating to the metal surface and it'll rust. The primer/sealer will help to prevent that but it still can absorb some. If it's in primer for a while I'd also suggest sanding that down and repriming before painting. Primer will also absord airborne contaminants such as dirt, bugs, tree sap, oil from the roadways.....anything that gets on your windshield will get on your primer. You always need a clean surface to paint over.

If you are going to paint right away, and it sounds like a rattle can is your method for the moment, check the can and make sure you don't need a clearcoat. Some paints require it for proper sealing of the surface. If it needs a clearcoat and doesn't get it the paint may absorb moisture ust like the primer/surfacer and will allow the metal under the paint to rust....thus making your effort worthless.

Good luck!

Mark