Last Saturday I did a filter and fluid change on my "n-used" 00 Suburban 1500, 4x4, with the 4L60e transmission. I got it cheap with a new junk yard engine in it with 45,000 miles. I had no idea what the status of the transmission was except that it shifts smoothly. I thought I'd write what I wish someone had written as instructions, your mileage may differ. I think these basic procedures apply to all the 5.3 trucks and big SUVs with the 4L60e transmission.

I started out by trying to pull the drain plug out of the pan. It rounded off like everyone else'. I didn't fight with it. Really the worst one I have ever seen. The issue most people seem to have is getting the pan off with the exhaust crossover and shift linkage in the way. I didn't have any issues with either. I have the "deep pan". I used a big pry bar, not a screwdriver, and pried the shift linkage bracket over till it was touching (or about) the drive shaft. The pan came right off with out risking damage to the shift solenoids. Was it messy? Extremely.. If you live in the burbs lay cardboard out before you start. A drip pan will catch most of it but you'll make a mess, I promise.

Once I got the pan out the gasket came right off with a scraper. I pulled the old filter off. I considered pulling the filter seal but, it was in perfect condition. I put some transmission fluid on the neck of the new filter and it was a nice tight fit into the old seal. You can remove it if you like. Use a small screwdriver, drive it up under the metal lip of the old seal and pry it out enough to pull it out with needle nose pliers. Don't scratch the aluminum. Good luck! The transmission sucks the fluid up through the filter from the pan. An air leak on that filter connection to the seal in the valve body is a super bad thing. It will kill the transmission if it's able to work at all.

Then, I cleaned out the pan. I wanted to get that drain plug out so that in the future I can just do a drain and fill from time to time to keep the fluid fresh. The 15mm hex end of the drain is virtually hollow so..yea, sucks. When you put real power on it it just folds in and rounds off. I welded a nut to it. Then broke that off. I welded a second nut to it, and broke that one off. Then I welded the top of a 5 inch long bolt to the nut to use as a lever to twist the plug off. Then I had to add a 12 inch long extension and finally got the plug to turn. Why it was on there at 200 foot pounds is beyond me. I bought a new plug similar in design to the old one at Auto Zone for $5 bucks. What you need to know is the thread pattern is: M12 x 1.75. You need the big collar and rubber seal or it will leak. Try to save the seal on the old drain plug, it could be useful. I plan to cut the bolt I welded on the old plug off, grind it down flat and weld a nut on there like it will never come apart and reuse it. I will use a larger nut to give some good bite in the future and be careful not to over-torque. The GM design lacks..

To reinstall the pan clean it up shiny and new on the inside with carb cleaner and reinstall the magnet within the indicators (it's original location). Clean up the magnet. There will be a little bit of a metal based cream on the magnet. It's normal. If you see chunks take it to a professional. I put the new gasket on the pan and turned in all of the 13mm bolts a couple of turns except the front 3 bolts. The reason I did it this was to have zero risk of catching a bolt on anything to do with the solenoids. I had to pry the bracket over to get the pan back up but, it was a non issue, went right on. Install the bolts hand tight and then tighten in a cross pattern. Do not over tighten these bolts, just don't. A good snug is good enough. Monkey tight will bend the pan and leak.

The shift linkage bracket sprung right back to it's original position after I pried it out of the way. The drive shaft only lets it go so far. Some people recommend using a "C" clamp attached to the drive shaft to move the bracket over. In my opinion this is a horrible idea. A slightly dented drive shaft is a ruined drive shaft. That metal isn't that thick and there is zero justification for it. Go to Ollies and get yourself a cheap pry bar before you consider using the drive shaft for leverage on anything. Put the pry bar up between the metal bracket and the shift cable. Do not in any way push on the shift cable it's self. There's plenty of room to get the pry bar on some metal on the bracket. When you look at it you can see how easy that part is.

Once I installed the pan and got it all buttoned up I added 4 quarts of Dex 6. I then drove it and checked while it was warm and added a 5th quart. The book says it takes 5 quarts and it took 5 quarts. Do not overfill. Slightly under fill and top up. It's 1/2 quart from hole to hole on the dip stick. So, if you're at the bottom hole don't pour a quart in. Not going to argue about what specific kind to use. Any Dex 6 will do, even the Walmart Supertech Dex IV (in my 2000 model which originally called for Dex 3). If you want to use Super Duper Dex 6 made from the sweat of moon cows have at it. I use store brand and keep it fresh.

Final note: You're crawling under a very heavy vehicle. If it falls on you you will die and it will hurt..use jackstands, chocks, etc.. Make absolutely sure you will see the sun come up tomorrow. Do not crawl under your Chevy with a jack holding it up unless there are nuclear bombs falling or, a zombie infestation demands unusual risk. Don't pull the front wheels up onto curb and crawl under there. Inevitably you won't chock the wheels, it will get knocked out of park and you will be found a few hours later with that dumb look on your face assuming ambient temperature. Please don't get that look on your face. Use the proper equipment to get access to that transmission. Overkill is good here. Too much is better than not enough.

 

well done

 

Update: I have checked the transmission fluid level, engine running twice today and ended up adding another quart to bring the level up to a full top hole on the dipstick. So, with filter change it's 6 quarts. That puts the level right to the bottom of the top hole.