Tire Pressure Sensors
#1
Tire Pressure Sensors
History:
Old truck 2007 Suburban BF Goodrich 35" tires. I was able to program the TPM and no light.
New Truck:
2014 Suburban ProComp 35" tires. According to lift company, the tire rating is an E. Therefore the computer system will not recognize unless I drop pressure down to 35psi which is approximately half the tire recommended PSI.
Do I have an option with these tires to reprogram the TPM System to recognize or do I have to sacrifice the engine light for the look?
Old truck 2007 Suburban BF Goodrich 35" tires. I was able to program the TPM and no light.
New Truck:
2014 Suburban ProComp 35" tires. According to lift company, the tire rating is an E. Therefore the computer system will not recognize unless I drop pressure down to 35psi which is approximately half the tire recommended PSI.
Do I have an option with these tires to reprogram the TPM System to recognize or do I have to sacrifice the engine light for the look?
#2
Super Moderator
I'm really unsure about how to advise you concerning the computer issue, but, I wouldn't run normal pressure on "E" rated tires under about 75% of the Max Cold Inflation pressure, and within 10% of max would be even better. Those guys don't do all that well if you allow them to flex a lot. So, I think about 50+ psi would be the minimum.
What's the maximum cold pressure rated for them ?
What's the maximum cold pressure rated for them ?
Last edited by SWHouston; March 28th, 2014 at 11:34 AM.
#5
Super Moderator
Maximum Cold Inflation Pressure (MCIP)
The Maximum Cold Inflation Pressure (MCIP) is stamped on the sidewall of each tire. Assuming you have a matched set, that pressure would be the same for all four. I personally run mine up within 10% of MCIP at all times.
Given that I SO enjoy getting on my Soapbox about issues like this, I'll go ahead and list the reasons why running higher pressures are advantageous...
Why should you air your Tires up to or near The Maximum Cold Inflation Pressure* . . .
1) Well/higher Inflated tires get better gas mileage.
2) Handling/control (cornering) is greatly improved.
3) When having to do Hard Breaking, the Tire resists compression, and has better traction and ability to stop your vehicle.
4) When encountering a Road Hazard (curb/chughole) higher pressure resist compression of the Sidewall, limiting the injury to the Tire.
5) When Sidewalls don't flex as much as with lower pressures, Tires run cooler and have a vastly lower failure rate.
6) At High Speed, higher pressure enhances the overall rotational stability/roundness of the Tire, which improves its balance, creating more consistent contact with the Road Surface.
7) Tread Depth Patterns are set up, where over the life of the Tire, that they wear more evenly and provide longer life, when the Tire is inflated in its higher range of pressure.
8) When Towing, or carrying heavier loads (multiple passengers or cargo) the Load Rating of the Tire cannot be assured, unless the Tire is aired up at or near its Maximum Cold Inflation Pressure*.
9) Increased pressure maintains the footprint of the Tire, stabilizing the separation of the spacing of the Tread Grooves, allowing it to discharge Water better, on wet surfaces.
The above advantages, are well worth the minor tradeoff of having a slightly firmer ride.
Even with a moderate load, our vehicles can easily weigh 6000 lbs or more.
Note*:
The Maximum Cold Inflation Pressure is stamped on the sidewall of every Tire, and is the Manufacturers guarantee that the Tire can be safely and reliably operated at the pressure listed thereon, for its life.
An acceptable "near", is within 10% of the Maximum Cold Inflation Pressure.
Given that I SO enjoy getting on my Soapbox about issues like this, I'll go ahead and list the reasons why running higher pressures are advantageous...
Why should you air your Tires up to or near The Maximum Cold Inflation Pressure* . . .
1) Well/higher Inflated tires get better gas mileage.
2) Handling/control (cornering) is greatly improved.
3) When having to do Hard Breaking, the Tire resists compression, and has better traction and ability to stop your vehicle.
4) When encountering a Road Hazard (curb/chughole) higher pressure resist compression of the Sidewall, limiting the injury to the Tire.
5) When Sidewalls don't flex as much as with lower pressures, Tires run cooler and have a vastly lower failure rate.
6) At High Speed, higher pressure enhances the overall rotational stability/roundness of the Tire, which improves its balance, creating more consistent contact with the Road Surface.
7) Tread Depth Patterns are set up, where over the life of the Tire, that they wear more evenly and provide longer life, when the Tire is inflated in its higher range of pressure.
8) When Towing, or carrying heavier loads (multiple passengers or cargo) the Load Rating of the Tire cannot be assured, unless the Tire is aired up at or near its Maximum Cold Inflation Pressure*.
9) Increased pressure maintains the footprint of the Tire, stabilizing the separation of the spacing of the Tread Grooves, allowing it to discharge Water better, on wet surfaces.
The above advantages, are well worth the minor tradeoff of having a slightly firmer ride.
Even with a moderate load, our vehicles can easily weigh 6000 lbs or more.
Note*:
The Maximum Cold Inflation Pressure is stamped on the sidewall of every Tire, and is the Manufacturers guarantee that the Tire can be safely and reliably operated at the pressure listed thereon, for its life.
An acceptable "near", is within 10% of the Maximum Cold Inflation Pressure.
#6
Almost resolved
Apparently the tire sensors that I received with the wheel package are garbage. The shoot that installed my lift saved my OEM TPS so we are going to reinstall those to remove the warning. Should have them installed next week.
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#8
#10
Administrator
astotts1 Welcome to the forum...
I can't say for certain, however I can't see the technology changing from one body style to the next for the TPMS...
I think they would work...
I can't say for certain, however I can't see the technology changing from one body style to the next for the TPMS...
I think they would work...